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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Im going to be tackling the fun task of replacing the front shaft [balancer] seal, tips anyone? I dont even know what type of seal it is, rope seal is it?
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By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
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Normal drive -on seal. You just need to remove front balancer to get to it. Check the balancer for wear. You may need to get a stainless steel sleeve to repair if worn.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Since the seal is driven in from the inside of the front timing chain cover, that will have to come off also. Don't forget to order a new cover gasket in addition to the seal.
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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A "front timing cover gasket kit" will include seal,timing cover gasket,water pump gasket and partial oil pan gasket and a fuel pump gasket.Better idea to buy the kit.
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By lowrider - 15 Years Ago
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As long as your there, check the timing chain for wear.
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By yehaabill - 15 Years Ago
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Talkwrench Y-Guy: When re-installing the front cover, it's important to center the cover as best you can or you will be leaking again. If you align the base of the cover with the bottom edge of the block, that will be very close. Ford had a "Guide Tool" to do this, but I've never seen one. Hope this helps Bill
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks guys I do have a full engine kit, Felpro one. I just didnt know which seal it was in the kit and I didn't want to come up short if I started. Thought I would check to see if there was any "hidden" problems when do it. SO what the best way to check if the timing chain is worn?
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By lowrider - 15 Years Ago
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The shop manual gives a spec of a 1/2in. deflection. You didn't say how many miles you have on the vehicle, but I would think if the engine has 25k on it I would go ahead and replace it. As long as you've disassembled it that far I would replace it. Unless you plan on a major rebuild in the future.
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Seems like I best add that to the list.. Car has done what is supposed to be 93,000 original miles... IS it hard to get the cam out once that far ?
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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It's not hard to get it out. You have a bit farther to go to get the cam. and you'll have to go still a little farther, if you plan to swap it, lifters and all. Intake, valley cover, valve covers, push rods, distributor, and oil pan, at least.
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By Craig Seyfried - 15 Years Ago
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Hi Guru, If you try to take the cam out you will have to pull the intake manifold off and remove the valley pan. Then pull the lifters up as far as you can (they cannot be pulled out completely because they are mushroom lifters) then fashion some wooden clothes pins by grinding off about half of the tip and grip the end of the lifter at the top (push rod end). After you grip all 16 lifters (don't forget to pull the distributer out) pull the camshaft out. It is a hassle to do this and there is really no way to replace the lifters unless you have the engine out of the car and the engine is turned upside down, and if you replace the camshaft you really need to replace the lifters also. Andy of Mayberry
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Ooohh that really is going the next step.. its does seem worthwhile doing the timing chain though,Mmm now another thing to order  I will consult with my local gurus Rick and John as I get closer..
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By Craig Seyfried - 15 Years Ago
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The timing chain replacement is a good idea and it is really not hard to do. There needs to be 12 pins between the timing marks on the timing gears and the timing marks need to be on the left side of the engine as you look at the front of the engine. A new chain and gears will make the old Y-Block run better. With 93,000 miles on the clock it is probably worn out. Andy of Mayberry
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Craig: You must have looked at the Eickman book when you posted the location of the timing marks. The marks have to be on the left side of the engine when viewed from the driver's seat, not the left side as viewed from the front. The dots are on the oil filter side of engine!!!! Eickman has it wrong.
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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I assume when do this that its a straight forward fit..as in I dont need a degree wheel or anything?
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By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
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To clarify re the incorrect timing chain photo in Eickman's book. The chain is on the right viewed from the front in the photo, however, the engine is upside down, so the installation is as John pointed out, incorrect.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Here’s a picture to correct the one that’s in Eichman’s Y-Block book. As John brings up, the dots on timing gears are on the oil filter side of the engine. Twelve pins between the dots for conventional timing chain sets. 
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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So this is all TDC ? how do the gears come off ?
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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They might pull off pretty easily. If not, use some big screw drivers and carefully pry them off. Keep track of the order in which the camshaft hardware is removed. There are washers, and spacers that need to go back on in the same order.
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By Craig Seyfried - 15 Years Ago
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Hi Ted, I don't know what I was thinking about when I said the left side of the engine as you stand from the front I really meant the right. I don't know my right from my left I guess. I apoligize for my blantant mistake. Hope John F. will accept my apology also. I just love the forum and thank you both for finding my mistake!! Fordially, Craig Seyfried
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Talkwrench (12/12/2010)
So this is all TDC ? how do the gears come off ?
The position of the camshaft keyway at 7 o'clock in Ted's picture the #1 piston will be TDC and the valve timing will be both valves fully closed and #6 cylinder at TDC also with the valves in the overlap position (one opening, the other closing). You could drop your distributor in the block setting the rotor to #1 spark plug and ignition timing would be correct if the camshaft keyway is same as Ted's picture.
Some of the other timing gear sets on the market today have the camshaft keyway a the 1 o'clock position. That particular gear setup with the 12 pins between in same orientation as Ted's picture would be TDC for #6 cylinder with both valves closed and #1 cylinder at TDC with the valves in overlap position. If you were to install the distributor you would have to face the rotor to #6 plug wire or you would be 180 deg out on the firing order.
Just a thing to watch for if rebuilding an engine or changing a timing set out with the distributor still in place.
marv
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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I have a standard Elgin timing set on the way so hopefully straight forward then... mmmm I have a hump on my back so I can walk straight in the world...
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Elgin sets are or were good quality when I used them. They are not in the same league as the Australian index-able sets however with stock valve springs and not running high RPMs the Elgin set should be fine.
When you remove your old camshaft gear check its keyway position to the timing dot as to your new camshaft gear keyway position to timing dot.
If the camshaft keyway is 180 degrees different from your old camshaft gear your distributor timing will also be 180 degrees out unless you pull your distributor to re-time to # 1 cylinder.
Just wanted to make you aware of this when trying to start the car after a timing set change and only get backfires and a no-run condition one begins to doubts ones work when the engine ran previous and the only thing you changed was the timing set (or think you changed).
marv
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks for that info, I understand, yet if both gears are on a "key" and can't be positioned any other way surely the chain and everything would "just fit together" regardless of markers. Can the gears be turned around back to front? Im hoping for a take one off - put one back on situation..haha I wont be taking the dissy out so hopefully no extra confusion.
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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The gears have a dot or a small "o" only one side of the gears. The side with the dot is the side to be installed facing you or you will not be able to count the 12 pins between the marks.
I usually set the gears up on the bench then carry it to the engine and slip on the shafts. Checking afterward that it still is 12 pins between the teeth. If you use Ted's picture as a guide it will be not difficult and as others have said watch the location of the spacers and the chamfer on the spacers as they are installed a certain way.
marv
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Im glad you said that as that is what I would have done...
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Craig Seyfried (12/14/2010)
Hi Ted, I don't know what I was thinking about when I said the left side of the engine as you stand from the front I really meant the right. I don't know my right from my left I guess. I apoligize for my blantant mistake. Hope John F. will accept my apology also. I just love the forum and thank you both for finding my mistake!!Craig. Not a problem as if John and I hadn’t corrected the mistake, others would have. And it gave me an excuse to actually post a ‘correct’ picture of the timing chain setup of what it looks like when being ‘timed’. That blooper in the Eichman’s Ford Y-Block book has been a thorn in the side for everyone that has used that book as their only reference. And Marv brings up a good point. Some brands of timing sets for the Y align the links with the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke while other sets will have #6 on the compression stroke. This occurs on other brands of engines also so it’s not just a Y-Block nuance.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Update; this one [Elgin] should be no.6 TDC. What a drama...Had a few probs with things like getting the balancer back on. I could only do it when putting the front engine mount on at the same time. Getting that mount on was a pain in the arse wasted an afternoon only to discover that I couldn't get the balancer and pulleys on.. I am thankfull I went to the effort of taking the sump of as well. It was so full of crap and the gauze filter was blocked solid, I managed to clean it out. Anyway she fired first go and runs sweet and sparky now.
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