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By 46yblock - 15 Years Ago
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The reason for the question is that I primed a rebuilt motor yesterday. Made one B and D cheapo chordless smell so bad that it went into the trash. Oil pressure quickly shot to 100 psi without any oil sign at rockers. Put on another chordless, BARELY rotating, and finally got oil to the rockers, keeping pressure at 40 or less with the low rotations. It was cold, about 36 degrees using 5/30 oil. Will change the gauge to see if there is any diff.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Mike: Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve is stuck closed. You shouldn't have that much pressure, with a drill or running.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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John is right. The oil pressure should be limited by the relief spring in the oil pump. Disassembly of the oil pump should find a relief valve that’s not working freely. 65 psi oil pressure is expected to be about the max number for a stock oil pump with cold oil. Using a speed handle instead of an electric or cordless drill will suffice for building up oil pressure and insuring rockers are oiling adequately.
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By 46yblock - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks guys.
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By HT32BSX115 - 15 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (12/17/2010)
Mike:
Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve is stuck closed. You shouldn't have that much pressure, with a drill or running.
Yeah. you might have a look at it. A good tight pump can do it though. I can get over 50psi on mine just turning it by "hand" with a 1/4-drive hand "crank" driver
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By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
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HT: How much oil pressure do you get when you actually run the engine?!
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By HT32BSX115 - 15 Years Ago
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I haven't ran mine yet.
I guess I should set it up on a stand! I have a new Melling pump installed. and I did have a look at the pressure relief valve and spring. It shouldn't be sticky at all.....
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Other possibilities for extreme oil pressure besides a stuck oil pump relief valve can include a faulty oil pressure gauge that simply reads too high or a block that has stopped up oil galleries or oil passages. Mud daubers in my part of the country are notorious for filling in any oil gallery sized holes that they can get to.
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By pegleg - 15 Years Ago
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Happens in the Mid-west too. We call them "Mud Wasps".
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By 46yblock - 15 Years Ago
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They must be universal. Anything with a hole can be a victim, including distributor caps!
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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pegleg (12/20/2010)
Happens in the Mid-west too. We call them "Mud Wasps".Frank we have those mud wasps here too, nothings safe!!
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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I've been working on this engine oil pressure off and on for a month now. Still have too high oil pressure. Cold or Hot idle is 60-65. 5000 rpm is 85 psi. Two different oil pumps have been installed. The first one is new. Checked the free movement of bypass plunger, which was good, but buffed the plunger on a cloth wheel to make sure. No change doing that or with the install of a good used oil pump. Two different mech. oil pressure gauges have been used (come to think of it 3 gauges have been used) with same result. One at a time I removed three of the oil galley plugs and the oil filter, and primed the pump. Couldnt get the 4th plug out. All the ports blew out clean copious oil. Oil gets to the rockers, with DS being faster than PS. Changed the oil filter. I checked the bearing clearances about a year ago with Plastigauge. Most were .0015 and some were .002. There was zero wear ring at top of cylinders. So with the block seeming to be good, new rebuilt heads were installed and other accessories. The oil being used is 5/30. Are there any suggestions? Maybe both of the pumps tried were high output versions?
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By HT32BSX115 - 14 Years Ago
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Mike,
I'm not so sure you need to worry about the engine doing 85psi at 5000 RPM.
First of all, it wasn't thoroughly warmed up was it? I don't mean coolant temp.
I mean OIL TEMP...... the oil temp WASN'T really fully at operating temp was it (and if you think it was did you measure it?)
The 57 Ford I had as a teenager in the 70's used to "peg" the (aftermarket) oil pressure gage I added at 80 PSI when cold on straight 30 wt. It didn't come down for quite some time after driving it.
I think you're fine using 5W30. It's still a 30wt oil when at operating temp. (although when you're broke-in, I would use a synthetic 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 etc)
I would suggest getting the engine (AND OIL) FULLY up to operating temp and note the temp/pressure before worrying about it too much.
The only way you're going to get it up to temp is to drive the engine in a vehicle. I don't think running it on a stand will do it very well.....and it will take a LONG time unless the engine is loaded.
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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Rick, the water temp was 180 plus before the runnup to 5K today. And you are right, it takes a long time to get up to that temp even without a radiator fan in place. Didnt check the oil pickup tube this time with the IR. The engine was rebuilt 10 or more years ago, and then very few, like 10K miles, put onto it in a '64 F250 which I bought about this time last year. So it is broken in. I'll give the 0/30 synthetic a try. A credit is due to Nick Brann. He said Prestolite spark plugs had a poor reputation. Today I noticed one of the new Prestolites installed in the engine firing between the insulator and the outer hex.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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You might double check that the spring fits inside the oil relief valve. If the cavity in the relief valve is too small in diameter for the spring, oil pressure will be higher than normal only when cold. When hot, it should come back down somewhat. Talking about oil temperature is going in the right direction. Takes a while for the oil temperature to match the water temperature so that’s a consideration. Whatever time it takes for the water temperature to get to ‘hot’, then you can easily double or triple this for the oil temperature doing the same. In the end and everything else checking out, blueprinting the oil pump may help. Putting the gear bottoms on a belt sander and removing enough material to get a minimum of 0.003” end play to the oil pump cover may help to lower your pressure. A micrometer measurement of the gears before doing any cutting on them speeds this operation up as you’ll not constantly be having to put the gears back in the housing to remeasure. Those gears are quite hard and the material on them is not easily removed.
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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I am happy to report the high oil pressure is no more. Before shaving gears as suggested by Ted, there were two more things I wanted to do. First was to change the oil to 0/30 synthetic as suggested by Rick. Did that with almost no change. At an oil temp of 185, 500 rpm pressure dropped only to 58, and still 80 plus at higher rpms. With the synthetic still in the engine, a third oil pump was installed. This time a cleaned, used gerorotor with new O'ring. At oil temp of 185, 500 rpm pressure was 37. 2000 rpm pressure 50, and wanted to go higher but didnt take the engine any further. So success on one front. Too bad I cant get number 1 cylinder to stop leaking coolant.
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By HT32BSX115 - 14 Years Ago
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Mike, glad you found a workable oil pump.
Have you had a look at the pressure relief valve in the other ones?
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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Rick, on the first pump I checked the pressure relief. It was free. I buffed it with some buffing compound on a cloth wheel to help make sure it wouldnt hang up. I will check the second pump. One definite difference between the first pump and the last was the tension on the relief spring. It was easy to notice the higher tension of the gear pump spring when compared to the gerorotor. I was surprised enough that I got a spring from a 4th gear pump and put into the gerorotor and didnt notice any difference in feel when installing threaded plug. Edit: I looked at the pressure relief of the second pump installed. It seemed fine. Spring was in proper location of the plunger relief. This same pump had only 2-3K on it and worked well before putting into plastic sealed bag. It seems to me that the third pump had a fair amount of wear which didnt allow it to overwhelm the tight tolerances of the engine. I had tried it in the engine in my truck after the rebuild. It didnt produce the pressures wanted. Perhaps this experience gives an additional answer to a previous post of mine regarding bearing tolerances.
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By HT32BSX115 - 14 Years Ago
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Too bad I cant get number 1 cylinder to stop leaking coolant.
This is just a "blown" head gasket, right?
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