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By ejstith - 15 Years Ago
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OK, I've seen on here where you shouldn't connect the choke to the + side of the coil. I had mine hooked that way for 3 years and never had a problem (I thought). After I discovered that bad brand new Mallory coil I thought maybe having the choke hooked up to it may have contributed to it's demise so after I put a new MSD coil & resistor I wired the choke directly to the battery. Now my battery went totally dead and the only difference is the choke hooked to it. Question is, how is y'alls choke wired up?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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EJ: If you hook the choke directly to the battery, it will remain heated, keeping the choke "off" until the battery runs down. Run a wire from the "ign" terminal of the ignition switch.
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By ejstith - 15 Years Ago
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John, wouldn't that be the same as running it to the + side of the resistor where the wire comes from the ignition switch?
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By rick55 - 15 Years Ago
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John, wouldn't that be the same as running it to the + side of the resistor where the wire comes from the ignition switch?
It doesn't matter where you connect a load to the +ve battery or ignition circuit (when it is switched on) - it is all essentially the same as connecting it to the +ve of the coil (in a car with no ballast resistor). You need to connect it to the ignition circuit as this is the only circuit that is live when the ignition is on. If you connect it directly to the battery it will flatten the battery as it will become a continual load and drain the battery, if you connect it to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch it will remain on when you have accessories on.
If you had no problem with it connected to the coil - so long as you are not running a ballast resistor - connect it back up to where you had it before.
The possible problem with it connected to the coil is it may overload the wiring to the coil though I doubt this will be a problem.
Regards
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By ejstith - 15 Years Ago
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Rick, I have a ballast resistor now so I was assuming I could hook the choke wire to the same post on the resistor where the wire comes from the ignition switch. (Basically so I wouldn't have to run a wire through the firewall etc).
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Yes I am looking at this Rick...
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Rick-If you turn the key to the left-accessories position with motor off it would not feed the electric choke if wired correctly to the ignition switch.The choke power wire should go on the switch terminal which is "live" with the key turned to the first position right(where it is with motor running).I ran a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the choke with an inline fuse near the choke which can be removed to "unpower" the electric choke if required.If you hook it to the ballast resistor you will not get full voltage required for the ignition system-as I understand it.Its not a lot of work to run a dedicated line from the ignition switch to the choke.This is the proper way to wire it without interfering with other circuits.
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By Joe 5bird7 - 15 Years Ago
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My car has overdrive so hooking the choke wire up to the overdrive relay on the fire wall under the hood was most convenient. That connection is "hot" only when the ignition switch is in the "on" position so everything works as it should.
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By rick55 - 15 Years Ago
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Hook the choke up to the ignition side of the ballast resistor,not the side going to the coil and it will be fine. This side of the resistor is the 12volt feed.The choke will not draw a lot of power so the ignition circuit will handle it. You could hook an online fuse on it from the ballast resistor if you feel the need. It won't hurt. Doing it this way is probably the neatest and won't need another wire coming from the ignition switch.
Regards
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By rick55 - 15 Years Ago
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Olcarmark - the accessory position terminal is live when the ignition is on and when the key is turned to the left also. I had a car once where someone wired the gauges to the accessory post of the ignition switch and the gauges were on in either position.
It was a pain in the butt til I got around to changing it.
Regards
Rick
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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I hook the coil pots up to the ‘ON’ or ‘RUN’ position of the ignition switch. Hooking the electric choke wire up at the resistor or coil will exhibit a larger voltage drop to the ignition than by running a separate wire to the ignition switch. By running the wire to the ignition switch, the whole electrical circuit shares the voltage drop whereas the ignition circuit takes the brunt of the voltage drop if wiring directly to the resistor or coil. You can test this by checking with a volt meter with the different wiring scenarios.
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Just wanted to ad to Teds post.When the switch is turned to the left(accessory position)the ignition circuit is off.One terminal is marked "run" as Ted mentioned.That terminal is only "live" when the switch is turned to the right where it is with the vehicle running.This also activates the "accessory" terminal which powers the radio,gauges etc.Power to the coil is only "on" with the switch turned to the right which is where the electric choke should be hooked to.One caution if you do wire the choke direct to the ignition switch-dont leave the choke hooked up while working on the ignition system with the key turned to "run" position(without the motor running).The choke needs moving air to keep it from overheating.It wil burn out if left on for extended time with no air movement to cool it.
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