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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi! New to the forum here and glad I found it! I drive a 1956 MErcury station wagon as a daily driver. I had a new custom radiator made and it's a 3 core. It fit in fine BUT the original fan only leaves me like 1/8th of an inch of space between the closest fan blade and the core of the new radiator!! OH OH! It looks like I can't remove the spacer from that fan or the fan will hit the power steering pulley. I don't really want to put an electric fan in front of the radiator because I have heard they are not that effecient at cooling the 312 Y block. I would like to have a fan behind the radiator if at all possible, I thought of mounting an electric fan to the radiator somehow and removing the orginal one. I need another inch of space between that radiator and the original fan if I keep that one. I am stuck and not sure what to do! HELP! 
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By crenwelge - 14 Years Ago
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Something must have gone wrong in measuring the radiator. There should be about an inch between the fan and the radiator. The radiator is bolted where it belongs, but it might be possible to put it into the radiator surround and drill some holes and bolt it from the front. Or you can possibly get the radiator shop to move the bracket about an inch. Who built the radiator? Did you give them dimensions or did they have dimensions. According to the Hollander, 55 and 56 Merc uses either a std or or extra cooling radiator, but does not fit 55 or 56 Ford.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi Kenneth! Thanks for replying! 1-800-Radiator did the radiator for me. They are just down the street from where I work at the repair shop I work at. They had a guy come out and measure the core and tank. I noticed the core seems a little thicker (for lack of a better word!) than the old radiator. And the old radiator was something that the previous owner had specially made and it never worked that well. This is a 3 row radiator. And yes, I think all I need is an inch more and I would be safe!
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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I moved my radiator in front of the radiator support. Looking at the picture can you slide the radiator down on the other side of the support? It's slotted at the top. Then the only problem is getting the bolts in. I went in from the front of the radiator guard with mine. Into the existing blind nuts. Was fairly simple and gave me plenty of room. I not sure if 1/8" is really bad to start with but could the fan flex into the radiator at RPM? Chuck in NH
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By LON - 14 Years Ago
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Why move the radiator ??? Looks like you have a spacer between the pulley and the fan . Why not remove the spacer first ??? That may give you the room you need ??? You may have to use shorter bolts as well ?? Hope ths helps . Lon
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By speedpro56 - 14 Years Ago
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As Lon said, remove the spacer and if the fan dose'nt hit anything which it shouldn't being a little closer to the engine then you're good to go. I've done this more than once to get more clearance and it worked out great.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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The fan will hit the power steering and alternator pulleys, otheriwise, I would TOTALLY do that! Wish I could! I tried removing the spacer once to put another fan on, and yep, it hit the pulleys! RATS! I will try moving the radiator to the other side of the posts. I think that will do it! Thanks for the help!!
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Could you take a look at how your motor mounts along side the engine are installed is the U facing open to front of car or facing open to rear of the car. If placed reverse the engine will be more forward than stock.
marv
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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Also, Ford 6 cylinder mounts have different offset than V-8, but look very much the same.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Not sure on the motor mounts, I would have to get under the eagon on my driveway! it's a pain to not have a garage to do this in! I do have new mounts sitting in a package, might be a good time to install those anyway! What I am now thinking is towing the Merc to the shop that rebuilt it and the guy is a Y-Block expert. HE can install the new mounts, so the engine sits back more, AND he can deal with the radiator (I am afraid of smashing the fins!) Thanks for all the help!!
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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The new mounts I have are for a V8 so they should be good. Doan is the brand
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Your rad looks like a 4 core desert cooler which should be tight yet still have enough fan clearance to install the belts after the rad installation.
What I was referring to is that the mounts can be installed in a reversed position which brings the motor forward. If I recall it will bring it forward about 1.5 inches. This could be where you are losing the rad to fan clearance.
If you look under the car from the front of the car at the motor mount check if you can seen the top bolts which mount to the engine block from the front of the car or cannot see them as they are hid by the mount the mount is installed correctly unless Merc's are backwards to a Ford. It has been a long time since I pulled a Merc engine.
marv
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By speedpro56 - 14 Years Ago
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Mercs are like a ford. The open C motor mount should be toward the firewall with the closed part to the front.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I just talked to the guy who ordered this radiator for me and he said it should be a three core. Sooo, I am going to see about modifying the mounting bracket and (hopefully!) move the radiator an inch and hope that works! What I would do for just an inch! 
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By BIGREDTODD - 14 Years Ago
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What you need to do is have the radiator shop revise the mounting flange on the radiator to achieve proper spacing. When I had the Griffin made for my '60 F-100, it took them 3 times to get the mount right. They were supplying me an aluminum radiator with the stock inlet/outlet locations, going into a stock core support. I finally just had to take a sharpie and draw the plane (at the stock location) where I needed the radiator flange. Don't get me wrong, they were great to work with and I'll buy from them again. Your local shop should be equally easy to deal with. Changing the flange is not a huge deal.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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You could try moving the radiator forward as suggested or you could install a electric fan behind the radiator. It will just fit when you get creative. Mike 
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By paul2748 - 14 Years Ago
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56mercgal (1/5/2011)
(I am afraid of smashing the fins!)
When installing a radiator with the engine in the car, I always tape a cardboard over the fin area to prevent mashed fins.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi Mike! WOW! I love how clean your Y-block is! (I'm jealous now,lol! ) did you remove the old fan and just install an electric one onto the radiator? And did you get the kind that automatically go on at a set temp? What brand did you install? I was looking at the Zirgos. Is yours a 16 inch? Thanks for replying back, Carrie
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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Carrie, it is a 16" fan, see link below. I installed it using 1"X1/8" aluminum angle. I drilled holes though the angle as it is against the back of the radiator and I did not want to block airflow. You can just see the top angle below the header tank in the photo. The angle pieces are long enough to bolt to the small flanges on the edge of the radiator, they bolt to the fan using the stock fan mounting holes. Mounted this way the outer shroud that is built into the fan sits about 1/4" from the radiator. The bottom edge of the fan motor which is the thickest part sits just above the water pump pulley. I use a truck pump on my engine which when I measured against my old pump was 1/4" longer. I had to cut off the extra water pump shaft that extended through the pulley (do to no longer using a spacer) and use button head allen screws to give me extra clearance. The pulley misses the bottom edge of the fan motor by about 3/8" which is fine as the engine moves side to side and not forward. I do have a full electronic control for the fan, regulates fan speed, auto shut off during cranking, 30 second run on after shut down as well as temp control, very slick. It is hidden inside the hollowed out voltage regulator as I use an alternator and do not need the regulator. Mike http://www.coolcraft.com/fans/spal-16-straight-blade-low-profile-fan.html
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi Mike, could you please take a couple of pics of the fan mounts on your radiator??? It almost looks like the bolts go right thru the core (Which I DON'T think is what was done! ) And forgive me here, but you mentioned the angle mount is bolted onto the fan mount on the pulley?? I guess I just need a couple of good pics of how the fan is mounted. I use an alternator,too. I have the original water pump and pulley. Obviously, you took off the old four bladed fan, which would still leave that fan's pulley to turn. That's where I am a bit confused! 
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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By the way you never said if you checked out your motor mounts. I made this mistake once and it was driving me crazy until I asked on this site. Even the exhaust was off. Simple check to see which way the U is facing on the mount. Chuck in NH
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I haven't had a chance to look under the car yet! I hope I can just crawl under it or look inside the hood area to see.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Carrie:
Here is what the motor mount looks like from above on the driver side. and picture of my four core rad with fan.
marv
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi Marv, is that the original spacer and pulley on the fan? Mine still has the original set up. How close is your fan to the core of the radiator? And is that a flex fan?
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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The mount is correct.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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Marv, here a a few more photos. The fan bolts to the aluminun angles with flat head bolts that are inserted from the front of the angle. Nothing passes through or is bolted to the radiator core. The aluminum angles bolt to the outer flange of the radiator. The water pump pulley goes on the pump shaft as normal with no spacer and is installed with short allen bolts. 
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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You should be able to see from the front probably on the passenger side. That would clear up the motor mount question. Chuck in NH
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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56mercgal (1/6/2011)
Hi Marv, is that the original spacer and pulley on the fan? Mine still has the original set up. How close is your fan to the core of the radiator? And is that a flex fan?
Carrie:
I pull a trailer with my car. The fan is the 5 blade fan extra cooling fan, the pulley is 55 ford as they used a smaller pulley as 55's had a three blade fan on v8's. I wanted to spin the water pump faster, the spacer is original. The fan has approximately 5/8" clearance to the rad. The spacer is about 7/8" thick.
Look at the picture I took of the drivers side motor mount and see if it is in the same orientation as the picture. Your mounts could be reversed 180 degrees.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I am trying to talk to a freind of mine at work who can fabricate that mount BUT, he doesn't like electric fans. He modifies Jeeps for rock crawling and complained to me that electric fans still overheat the engine or conk out. And he said that rain will mess that fan up. I drive my Merc in all weather. Do any of you guys drive your Y-blocks as a daily driver in the rain and all??
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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Electric fans do just fine. They've been used by the OEMs for 20+ years now. Everything else adequately sized and functioning properly, if the engine overheats, you got the wrong fan. Some fans are quite popular in the hot rod crowd, Ford Contour dual setups, Lincoln Mark VIII, and others.
If I'm not working on mine, I'm driving it, rain, snow, or shine. They weren't built to sit purdy in a garage.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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just one question... What's rain
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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Actually I have a friend that just installed a new stroker motor and high performance radiator but used the stock mechanical fan and shroud. Engine was overheatinfg at slower speeds. After several attempts to cure the probem we installed a electric fan, engine cooled fine all summer.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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It's that wet stuff that likes to leak into your 56' MErc because even with new weatherstripping, it STILL finds it's way thru the door! (That's another issue to tackle!) And my motor mounts do have the open part or U facing the firewall.
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By PF Arcand - 14 Years Ago
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Carrie: You paid for a new radiator to fit your car. It doesn't, take it back!
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Hi Paul, you are tight! I am afraid because it was custom made/special order they may not take it back. THEY should though! Shoot I paid over $400 for it! I will see what will happen!
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I meant to say RIGHT,OOOPS!!
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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They'd better correct it. It's one thing if you provided the measurement but the fact that a representative of the company took the measurements and it doesn't fit means it's all on them.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 14 Years Ago
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So - on a practical note.....and you obviously have photos to document your problem (can show the rad shop your problem without moving your vehicle) ...If you ask them to please move the mounting flanges 7/8 towards the inlet/outlet face, it would net one inch clearance to the fan. Seems like a reasonable request, if they were sure it would fit as they made it - and it didn't - this wouldn't be too difficult to fix.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I hope they DO rectifiy this. It's a place that orders from a warehouse they have and has a custom shop somewhere make the radiators. But, this Mon, I will take that radiator out,very carefully of course, and have them redo the mounts or narrow the core,whatever it takes for that one inch I need. Thanks for the help!
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Carrie:
Don't narrow the core as it will reduce your cooling efficiency.
Before you ship the rad back to them look down the front side of the rad (the side opposite the cooling fan) at the bottom tank check how much clearance it has between the bottom tank and the splash pan. The clearance amount is the maximum they can move that rad forward (away from the cooling fan) while still not rubbing the bottom tank or having the bolts not reach to hold the rad in place.
I had to add a couple of washers to shim my rad away from the splash pan. If you do not do this the bottom tank will wear through very quickly .
You maybe able to narrow your spacer a small amount also. Turn the fan around until a fan blade is opposite the belts. Note the clearance between the fan and the belts, then turn the fan until a fan blade is opposite the crank pulley and note the clearance. If you have power steering the belts will be the limiting factor. This the maximum amount you can narrow your spacer without having the fan hit the belts or pulley. Allow a little clearance for the fan blades and fan belt in case the belts deflect a small amount with increase/decrease in engine RPMs.
marv
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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I ran into this when I purchased a 4 row radiator for a 55 Club Sedan. Wasn't a custom radiator like yours or anything, but it definitely did not fit, and I was stuck (long distance, low price I paid, etc). The radiator was brand new so I decided to keep it and use it. Ended up having the spacer machined down about 1/4 inch or so at a local shop and personally ground the shaft of the water pump. Tucked it all back in, it is a nice squeeze, but it cools like there is no tomorrow. As a matter of fact, I ended up having to install a higher temp thermostat. The thing wouldn't run above 180 not matter what I did, even blocking the radiator with cardboard once on a test run!
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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After cutting a little off the new radiator mount, test fitting it several times while being VERY careful we finally fit it in! YAY! It has 1 inch clearance from the stock fan, it clears the bottom radiator hose and tranny cooler lines Just need to redrill a couple of mounting holes and I is done! Now, the bottom part of the radiator does rest on a support bar as we put the flange that is mounted on the new radiator on the other side of the stock radiator mount on the wagon. Is it OK to have that bottom part rest on that support part or do I need to put a "cushion" under it?? I can't imagine it doing any damage to the radiaor as the radiator will be tightly secure once mounted. Just curoius! This had been a pain, but it's worth it!
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Do you mean the U frame of the rad mount or the gravel pan that is horizontal to the rad. Could you shoot a picture of the area that is touching. The rad tank should not touch anything or it could wear a hole threw as it is very thin copper.
marv
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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It's the U-frame of the radiator mount. MAybe lift it up half an inch? I think I have clearance enough so it doesn't hit the underside of the hood.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Forgot to mention this, If I go up that half inch, the fan may not clear the lower radiator hose! Ooops! Maybe cut the side of the U-frame so it doesn't touch? I can do that, and leave the radiator at the height it is. Just that metalon the U-frame is fairly thick.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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56mercgal (1/9/2011)
Forgot to mention this, If I go up that half inch, the fan may not clear the lower radiator hose! Ooops! Maybe cut the side of the U-frame so it doesn't touch? I can do that, and leave the radiator at the height it is. Just that metal on the U-frame is fairly thick.
Can you not raise it so there is fan clearance as well lower hose clearance. Or is it the side of the radiator touching the frame. If it is the side of the radiator it will have the mounting bracket between the core and U frame.
I just needs room to not be touching the lower tank. Leave the greater clearance with the lower rad hose.
marv
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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There is an ince clearance between the lower radiator hose and the lowest part of the fan blades. I am worried if I hit a good bump, not like I try to! But, would the fan blade cut into that hose?? The engine probably wouldn't go up and down, more like side to side, I assume. MAybe raise the rad up half an inch? Then that will give it half inch clearance from the bottom of the U-fram, half inch from the fan and hose.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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The motor should only raise up or down very minimally unless your motor mounts are broke. The rad should only raise up or down minimally as well unless the mounting bolts below your rad U frame are loose or broken or rubber mount is shot. There should be tension on the rad U frame two springs to hold the rubber mount tight.
If you have 1"of clearance between fan and rad hose use the most of that 1" for clearance on your rad hose, that is the area that will move the greatest if engine should shift or you should go through a dip the frame will torque slightly and both motor and radiator hose could move towards each other. The hose would be the loser.
You just need enough clearance with the rad to rad frame to prevent rubbing, 1/8" is sufficient or put a piece of sheet rubber between the rad and rad frame so there is a clearance. Just so its not metal to metal on the lower rad tank to rad frame. Metal to metal will whittle a hole or crack the tank. You need some clearance here or an insulator to protect the lower tank.
marv
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Is half an inch clearance between the fan blade and lower rd hose enough?? I sure hope so! FINNALY got the thing in now! Almost done!
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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It should work. I just checked the lower hose to fan clearance on my rad and it is about 3/4" .
!/2" clearance should not be a problem. Time will tell. If clearance becomes a problem you could use a smaller diameter fan. Do you know what your fan diameter is. Stock should be 18.25".
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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From the picture it looks like you have a fan with at least one bent blade. That will eventually cause a problem due to vibration. The universal replacement fans are available in different diameters so if you get one you could improve the hose clearance at the same time. I'm not sure if the old Y-Block 5 blade fans are a smaller diameter or not. Chuck in NH
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Actually, that fan is a four-blade one! Good idea on getting a smaller diameter fan! Will it still provide adequate cooling? (Almost typed "cooking" WE don't want that,LOL!) Who would have one that bolts up to the old bolt holes? The less mods I have to do, the better!! And no, a flex fan WILLL not work! Has to be a metal one.
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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Anyone know of a good source for high quality water pumps for a 312 y-block? I MIGHT need to get one! It's about 9 years old, and "might" be going out. After I got the engine started last night, the pulley area sounded like it was sqeaking. Maybe the belt. Belts are 7 years old.
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Replace the belts first. While the belts are out of the way check the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump (shaft support) and see if there is any sign of seepage. You can get a water pump at many parts stores and almost surely at NAPA. They usually list from 62 up but still Y-Blocks. Its also a good time to replace the thermostat and don't go cheap on them. Buy a decent quality it will last longer. My grandson's BMW takes a new cheap thermostat yearly! Spending the extra cash makes a difference here! Most auto performance shops or parts stores either have a selection of flex fans or a catalog listing for them. Measure the diameter of the existing fan and see if they offer one 1/2" smaller. The universal fans are usually slotted to fit most 4 bolt applications. You could also take your old fan along to the wrecking yards and compare to what they have. An early AC fan would be great if you can find one. With the new radiator I don't expect you to see any heat problems. The only other thing you might consider it a fan shroud. Chuck in NH
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By 56mercgal - 14 Years Ago
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I bought a Gates thermostat, and yes, I will probably replace the belts this weekend, HOPEFULLY, this weekend! I do alot of vide editing and filming on weekends so time is tight!
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