By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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i just took my oil pump off my 292 then i took my sump off ; pictures below. when i took the oil pump off the rubber gromit which is at the end of the supply pipe was broken in half and perished. could this what has been causing my oil pressure problems and my oil to the rockers?????????? has anybody got one of these gromits they could send to me , i will pay what ever it costs to send . many thanks steve. 




THERE WAS SOME BUILD UP OF RESIDUE IN THE PUMP AND THE SUMP HAD SOME TOO.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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Steve, PM Me with your address and I will mail one to you. And yes that could definitely be you oil pressure problem.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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You'll also need a gasket for the pump to the block. An oil pump gasket kit will likely have everything you need.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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I will send the gasket also.
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By nonne_56 - 14 Years Ago
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Steve, If i remember you are from GB. I can send you the rubber and gasket from Sweden if you like. It wont take many days. Nonne
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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STEVE HERE AGAIN I JUST FINISHED PUTTING MY OIL PUMP AND SUMP PAN BACK ON CAR , I THEN GAVE THE ENGINE AN OIL FLUSH . THEN I PUT NEW OIL BACK IN AND CHANGED THE OIL FILTER . I STILL HAVE NO OIL TO THE ROCKERS . WHAT IS MY BEST PLAN OF ACTION NOW????????? STEVE.
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By awhtx - 14 Years Ago
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The quick and easy fix is an external rocker arm oiling kit. I doubt anybody currently produces them but they do show up on Ebay.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Steve. What’s the oil pressure reading?
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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hi ted it does not read much at all.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Steve. What weight oil? Even when cold, a light weight oil should indicate a reasonably good oil pressure though. I suspect you’ve got enough bearing wear to support a rebuild and pulling a main and rod bearing cap would be a quick check for this. An overhead oiler might be a bandaid fix for the short term assuming there’s enough oil pressure to get the oil through an overhead oiler line going to the top of the engine.
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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TED I AM USING 10/40 WOULD I NEED A CAM BEARING CHANGE, IF SO CAN THIS BE DONE WITH OUT STRIPPING DOWN THE ENGINE. STEVE.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Steve. Rod and main bearings can be changed out without pulling the engine. Cam bearings is another story though as that will require a complete engine tear down. And cam bearings may ultimately be the issue around the lack of topend oil. Until the oil pressure is restored to a normal number, it’s going to be difficult to ascertain what the cam bearing situation is without a tear down.
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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TED WHERE CAN I FIND OUT HOW TO TAKE THE ENGINE APART ( IN WHAT ORDER) CAN THINGS BE DONE. STEVE.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Steve. Eichmans Y-Block manual is probably as good a reference there is for what you wanting to do but you’ll want to go through the rebuild section thoroughly at least a couple of times before tearing into your engine. When it comes to the timing chain installation and aligning the dots and pins though, disregard what is listed in that particular manual as the picture is wrong. If you’ve never worked on an engine’s internals before, I’ll suggest getting a friend that has to walk you through it and look over your shoulder as you do it. The methodology for working on the engine while it’s in the chassis versus having the engine out and on a stand is different. Torque values are going to be important going back together also. There is simply a books worth of details on rebuilding an engine but specific questions can be asked and answered here on the forum. Reading some manuals beforehand can help to prepare you for what’s coming though.
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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what will i need to replace??????? how much would this roughly cost?????? where would be the best place to buy parts???????? steve.
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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Steve, question is bit like,how long is a piece of string?, as Ted suggests, get a friend who knows something about engines to help. i can only suggest without good supervision this engine can cost twice as much as normal to o.haul and cause a lot of anguish. Do your homework, get experienced help to run you through the proper method to do this engine. Not trying to discourage you, just trying to get you going in right direction, others will help but you need to start educating yourself first. good luck. bill.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Steve. A tear down of the engine will give a better idea of what’s going to need replacement. If the crankshaft does not show excessive or abnormal wear, then the best case scenario is a set of rod and main bearings that are appropriate for whatever sizing the crankshaft is currently at along with another oil pan gasket. Worst case scenario is worn crankshaft which requires a complete teardown where the crankshaft must be removed so it can be ground undersize. This will require bearings that are a fit for the remachined crankshaft. At this point you may also find that there is sufficient wear in the cylinder bores to mandate reboring the cylinders oversize thus requiring new pistons and rings and a full set of gaskets. New cam bearings are going to be a prerequisite once the block is removed from the chassis. And one thing leads to another once the engine is torn down. Timing chain, camshaft, lifters, and other miscellaneous parts become subject to replacement. Can end up being on the expensive side depending upon just how far you want to go. Because of all the unknowns right now, pricing varies considerably depending upon what’s required and where the parts are purchased. Although Y rebuild parts can be bought at most machine shops or major parts distributors here in the U.S., a couple of Y-Block specific suppliers to start with would include Schumanns Sales and Service and John Mummert.
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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hi all went out today and put another new oil pressure gauge in and guess what , when i started up it went straight to 50lbs when cold, and dropped to about 35lbs when warm. 
this is when warm STEVE.
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By awhtx - 14 Years Ago
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Steve,
Last year I bought a non-running 1958 F600 with a 292. When I got it home I pulled the rocker covers and found that 5 of the 8 pushrods on the passenger side had fallen out of place and were laying in the lifter valley, bent and broken. I pulled the rocker shaft off and found it to be severely galled due to a lack of oil. I got some good used rockers and pushrods and reassembled them. I removed the distributor and turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. I was getting oil to the drivers side rockers but none to the passenger side. I cleaned the oil passageway through the head and there was still no oil. I found a NOS external oiler kit and put it on. Now I had oil to all of the rockers.
But I still had another problem- when warm and idling the oil pressure dropped to 0 psi. I pulled the pan and plastigaged the main bearings. There was about .007" clearance- about twice as much as it should be. Nobody makes undersized main bearings except .010, .020, etc for reground cranks. They used to be available in .002, .003, etc. I got online and found a NOS set of .002 undersize at a parts store in Puerto Rico. I installed them and now with 20w-50 oil I have 50 psi cold and 25 psi hot at idle. I have oil to the rocker arms. I have a running engine. Yes, it has been fixed with band-aids but it runs.
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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hi all MY MECHANIC HAS NOT WORKED ON Y BLOCKS BEFORE AND CANT UNDERSTAND THAT I HAVE 50PSI OIL PRESSURE BUT NO OIL TO THE ROCKERS. WHY CANT THE OIL PRESSURE, PUMP THE OIL THROUGH THE OIL PASSAGE WAYS???????? IF THESE ARE NO BLOCKED. STEVE.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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 Here is a pic of a 239 yblock which has same oil flow direction as a 292. I will try to send you a pm with a picture with more definiton so it is more clear.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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10psi will get it to the rockers if it's not blocked and bearing clearances are good. If you're still not getting oil with an honest 50psi, it's blocked or the rocker shafts are assembled incorrectly. Have you pulled the rocker shafts to see if oil comes out of the head while turning the oil pump?
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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charliemccraney i have pulled to rockers but cant take the distributor out with engine in car not enough room. can you run the engine on just 1 side , so you can see if the otherside has oil comming out the hole in the head. steve.
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By rick55 - 14 Years Ago
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hi all
MY MECHANIC HAS NOT WORKED ON Y BLOCKS BEFORE AND CANT UNDERSTAND THAT I HAVE 50PSI OIL PRESSURE BUT NO OIL TO THE ROCKERS.
WHY CANT THE OIL PRESSURE, PUMP THE OIL THROUGH THE OIL PASSAGE WAYS???????? IF THESE ARE NO BLOCKED.
STEVE.
On These engines the route the oil takes from the gallery to the rockers takes a dogleg across the head surface where it mates with the block. If the engine has never been pulled down before this passage can become blocked or at the least slugged up and will at the least restrict but almost certainly completely block supply.
Withe rockers off the head it is possible to run a pipe cleaner down to the head surface, but the only way to clear the dogleg is to pull the heads.
This dogleg was probably engineered into the engine to restrict oil supply to the rockers!!!
Little did the engineers know how effective it would be later on.
A 1/4" socket on a long 1/4" extension held in a cordless drill turning counterclockwise on the oil pump drive with the distributor removed will assess whether the heads need to come off.
One of the fun jobs associated with these engines.
One you get adequate oil to the rockers make sure you regularly change the oil to stop it slugging up again.
Regards
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By sallens - 14 Years Ago
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hi all MY MECHANIC HAS NOT WORKED ON Y BLOCKS BEFORE AND CANT UNDERSTAND THAT I HAVE 50PSI OIL PRESSURE BUT NO OIL TO THE ROCKERS.
WHY CANT THE OIL PRESSURE, PUMP THE OIL THROUGH THE OIL PASSAGE WAYS???????? IF THESE ARE NO BLOCKED.
STEVE.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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You can crank the engine over with the starter. Remove the spark plugs and it will decrease the load for doing this.
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