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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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  Hello. Do anyone have some idea why my yblock wont fire. I have newly rebuild the engine, but it wont fire. I have ligned the distrubator upp, and all the wires are in the corectly firing order. But my carburator is leaking. The one off the gasket off the bottom og the carburator are leaking. But anyway, i belive that the fuel who comes into the sylinder would be enough to make it fire. I have checked that the spark plugg haves spark. I am out off ideas at this point. Also, i have cranked the engine a couple time, but cant se any oiling at the rockers. Do the engine need a little more RPM before the pressure would push the oil upp to the rockers ? I am shure i have mounted the rockers the right way. The oiling outlet tube is at the right hand off me when i am looking stright down at the rockers. This is a 6V electrical system ins this car. Please advice, cant wait to rev upp that Yblock  )
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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Some of the other veterans will probably bite on this but I'll take a shot... First of all, welcome to the site. This is a great place to connect with all of us Y block enthusiasts! Your question(s) may not be solely Y block, but almost sound like what anyone would face with firing up an engine. to get back to basics, you definitely need 3 things to get an engine to fire - 1. air/fuel mix 2. spark and 3. compression. Is the carb putting fuel down into the intake, or is that leak just a symptom of a carburetor that has more issues? I would expect so. Definitely take care of that leaking carb before firing anything up!  You said you have spark, so that seems to be taking care of. The only thing I would say to do is that you need to double check the distributor orientation and make sure you are on the money and not 180 degrees out. (Bring up cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center, and put distributor in so that the rotor is right on #1 spark plug wire) For compression, if you haven't done a compression test, I would have to ask what all did you do for the rebuild? some fellas have different definitions of what a rebuild is...did you do anything to the engine concerning the heads/camshaft/valve timing, etc? I would assume so. If you have the crankshaft dampener containing the rubber insert (just about all of them do) that separates the timing ring/belt groove from the assembly, you need to know that those timing rings have a tendency to slip and your timing marks could be way off from what you think you have. can you post any photos of your engine and your car/truck? hope this helps you out
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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one last thing about the oil pressure....take a drill and a 1/4" extension to place on the oil pump shaft (tape your socket to your extension!). After removing the distributor, operate your drill counter clockwise to see if any oil will come to the rocker shafts and out your end tubes. You should see oil after a few seconds - provided you have pre-filled your oil filter and primed your oil pump ahead of time. Keep in mind that the cross-drilled center journal camshafts will need to be rotated to a position where the oil supply hole can line up correctly with the center bearing. Once that happens, you should have seen oil flow to both sides. For the grooved center journal camhshaft, this is not an issue.
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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About the fuel leak on the carburator. I would say it is bad, if you pour some fuel into the carburator and the port on the carburator is almost closed, the fuel will drain stright out of the gasket. Maiby the gasket is dried out ? The carburator have not been in use for some years. Everyting in the engine have been changed, the sylinder have been bored and is now 0,60. I have not taken any compression test, but i guess it is okay since its new pistons and rings. But you dont now anyting shure. I have not mounted the short block, a local shop have done that. I have just completed the long block and mountet into the car. everyting is cleaned with toughts on the oiling. But i will try the drill on the shaft to see what happen. Also, i will check the dist when i have it out to check the oiling. I cant find any marks to align the dist to on the block. But i find the the mark on the dist body, and have aligned the rotor against that mark. The number 1 piston was at 6BTDC when i mounted the dist.
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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yblock55 (2/5/2011)
About the fuel leak on the carburator. I would say it is bad, if you pour some fuel into the carburator and the port on the carburator is almost closed, the fuel will drain stright out of the gasket. Maiby the gasket is dried out ? The carburator have not been in use for some years. Everyting in the engine have been changed, the sylinder have been bored and is now 0,60. I have not taken any compression test, but i guess it is okay since its new pistons and rings. But you dont now anyting shure. I have not mounted the short block, a local shop have done that. I have just completed the long block and mountet into the car. everyting is cleaned with toughts on the oiling. But i will try the drill on the shaft to see what happen. Also, i will check the dist when i have it out to check the oiling. I cant find any marks to align the dist to on the block. But i find the the mark on the dist body, and have aligned the rotor against that mark. The number 1 piston was at 6BTDC when i mounted the dist.
I would rebuild that carb first. Is the carb the old Holley 94, with an ECG on the side? 2 barrel, 3 bolt mounting flange, right? If the gaskets are dried out, odds are so is the plunger for the accelerator pump, and so when you give it a couple of quick pulls on the linkage, no gas is actually being squirted into the barrels? That is a CLEAN looking block and assembly - nice! I can see that you have early heads from the core plugs on the ends...therefore you probably have a cross-drilled camshaft, so that may be why your are not seeing any oil yet to the rockers. But, I would not fire that engine until you are sure that you are getting oil out the overflow tubes on both sides. About the distrbutor...I think on most Y dizzy's you won't find any marks for alignment on the housing, but you will find the number "1" marked on the cap. Transfer the cap indication to your dizzy housing and that will give you number one so that you can look at the rotor move up on that cylinder. If you do have a number one cylinder mark on your distributor, double check that with what is on your cap...
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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One other thing that looking at your good photos reminded me about... The Y block is also known for its different timing gears and chain where the dots on the cam gear and crank gear are mounted not facing each other (up and down), but facing to the drivers side of the vehicle with 12 pins between the two?
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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yblock55 (2/5/2011)
Hello. Do anyone have some idea why my yblock wont fire. I have newly rebuild the engine, but it wont fire. I have ligned the distrubator upp, and all the wires are in the corectly firing order. But my carburator is leaking. The one off the gasket off the bottom og the carburator are leaking. But anyway, i belive that the fuel who comes into the sylinder would be enough to make it fire. I have checked that the spark plugg haves spark. I am out off ideas at this point. Also, i have cranked the engine a couple time, but cant se any oiling at the rockers. Do the engine need a little more RPM before the pressure would push the oil upp to the rockers ? I am shure i have mounted the rockers the right way. The oiling outlet tube is at the right hand off me when i am looking stright down at the rockers. This is a 6V electrical system ins this car. Please advice, cant wait to rev upp that Yblock ) Well, we will all try and help but need to establish baseline of important settings etc, one of my thoughts is the valve lash clearance, have you set the tappets at approx .018" in the correct timing sequence? then check #1 piston is at top dead center when both the valves are shut, then check rotor button faces #1 on the cap. just basics but so important, all this right will fireup in some manner.
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Because of the cross drilled cam you will need to rotate the crankshaft while turning the oil pump shaft to get oil to both sides. You can have a friend rotate the crank as you turn the shaft. Did you use the front cylinder on the passenger side as number 1? Thats a common mistake that many people new to the Y-Block have made. This may not be your problem but I thought it was worth a mention. Don't overthink this. It's often best to back off for a while and start at the basics. Do any of your friends have a carb you can borrow? Good luck, Chuck in NH
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Also please post your location in the text or your tag line. It helps to know if any of us is close to you. Chuck in NH
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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The block is looking nice, i dont get tired seing the old Y. You have right about the carb, it have two mounting nuts in the front and one in the back. I dont know it is a holley, it is marked with ford on it. And no gas is actually come into the itake when i give it some gas. But i have tried to pour some gas stright into the carburator to be shure it get gas. I do now understand i am pretty green on the y block when i am talking to you guys, but thats fine, i am just learning more to talk to you. I agree i have to be shure that the oil come out off the tube, i will try what you say with the drill. I have replaced the cam on this engine, the original cam do have cros drilled journal. The new one have center journal. And yes, i have been shure to have 12 pins between the marks on the timing chain, the marks should also point at the oil filter. thats what i read me to from the shop manual and chilton. After i mounted the chain, i make 2 turns to se if the marks where at the same place and the number one piston was at tdc. Both valves where closed. I have adjusted the lash to 0,19. This was the hot adjust, do it have to be 0,18 to be the cold adjust ?
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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Yes, i was using the front sylinder on the passenger side as number one. What i understand from the chilton and the shop manual this is the right ting. I have borowed a carburator from a friend, but that carburator was also a leaking mistake.
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Where are you located? Chuck in NH
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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Looks like most of its correct, lash can be .018/019. As chuck says make sure #1 cyl is nearest the oil filler tube and firing order on dist is anti clockwise, i would set #1 cyl 6-10 deg BTDC and rotate dist with ign on till you see points spark, can just use test lite, all this just puts you in the ballpark and there are other variations but this should do.
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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Those 3 bolt, 2 barrel Ford carbs are holley derivatives. Actually, they are just fine, I used one on my Y block daily driver for several years back when I was 16 (this was in the early 90's). plenty good for a 272, and not too difficult to tear apart, rebuild, and make serviceable. Just make sure that you have no vacuum leaks - ala the throttle shaft could be worn. Is your distributor original to the engine? in 1957, Ford changed the distributors so that the advance would be vacuum and mechanical. Prior to that, the distributor was called a "load-a-matic" and ran from a signa from the intended carb only! Mismatches are not a good thing.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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Hello and welcome. A new rebuild that will not fire is very frustrating and a disappointment. Lets start at the very beginning. ALL ENGINES from Y blocks to HONDAS need the same things to start. 1 is FUEL. 2 is IGNITION. 3 is COMPRESSION. If you do not have ALL THREE your engine will NEVER START. PERIOD. NEVER. Do a compression check. If the cam or valve timing is incorrect you will not have compression. Minimum is about 75 PSI. That would be very low. To check for fuel (FIRST FIX THAT FUEL LEAK, you do not want to burn up your car) try spraying some starting fluid into the intake manifold. If you have compression and a spark AT THE RIGHT TIME the engine will fire. Ignition. Check for a spark at the points and at the spark plug and AT THE RIGHT TIME. NUMBER ONE CYLINDER at top dead center AND BOTH VALVES CLOSED. Close will fire the engine. It is that easy and that hard. Do not assume ANYTHING. CHECK EVERYTHING. GOOD LUCK and fix that fuel leak. Pete
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By crenwelge - 14 Years Ago
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Is this your first Y-Block? I guess you do know that Ford's cylinder numbering is different than GM. Are you getting fuel to the carb? It should squirt when you open the throttle. Do you have spark at all? Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and crank a little with the end of the coil wire laying about 1/4" from something metal. It should pop a fat spark. How much have you cranked it. It may be flooded. If so, take the plugs out and put a flame on the tips. What all did you have apart when you rebuilt it. It is a good idea to suspect everything you had apart.
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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I dont know if my dist is the original one, i can post a picture under here of the block during disasembly when you se a little bit of the dist. To go some years back in time, when my dad had the car. He drive the car into the garasje to rebuild the stering box, to do this he have to remove the stering coloum. To do that, he also needed to cut of the wire that is conected to the stering coloum. After he had rebuild the stering box and inserted in the gar again, the car got standing still about 14 years before he tried to start the engine. This was before i rebuild the egnine. When he tried to start it at that time, nothing happened. It was the same problem like it is today. My dad give upp the car and the car was now standing still about 5 more years. And now it was my turn to try. But the egnine was in bad shape, the piston rings have rusted to the sylinder, this was why i rebuild the egnine. So, the starting problem have eksisted before the engine was rebuilded. Like i said, the only thing my dad do to the car before i tried to start at that time was to cut the wire on the stering coloum. he also changed the rotor and the dist cap, but the dist was not tuched. When he put the wire together on the stering coloum again he make the color match each other. I dont know if this is the right thing, but he ment that that was the right ting. I have never found a wiring diagram if this wiring. Do any body think this might be the problem ? From what i have readed the car needed to stand in N when you gonna start it. Today i removed the dist to control that the shaft from the oil pump still was there, and it was. I was wondering, can you insert the oil filter the wrong way ? When i assembled the filter i did not se any direction on the filter. Also, when the outlet tube on the rocker shaft is at your right hand when you looking stright down on it, it should be right ? The hole on rocker that the oil comes true will given it self when you have placed the tube on rockers ? I mena the hole at the bottom of the rockers shaft, the hole that is facing down on the heads. I am living in norway, so it would be a little trip to come here to help me
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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I suspected that you were not in the US. Is your car right hand drive. If so, there may be some confusion about "driver" and "passenger" side. #1 cylinder is the front one on the right side of the engine as viewed from the driver's seat. The wires at the steering column are for the neutral safety switch and backup lights. If the engine cranks with the key and the shifter in neutral, then those wires are not the problem. So it's back to the basics as suggested in the above posts.
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By Bob's 55 - 14 Years Ago
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Sorry if this was mentioned already but are you certain that you have the cam timed correctly? Timing marks on a Y-Block are different than any other V-8 I have ever seen and it is easy to get wrong. Make sure both valve are closed when #1 is a TDC (power stroke).
Good luck to ya...
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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The cam is timed corectly, the sylinder one is at tdc and both valves are closed. I guess i just have to go true the basics again, but since the problem is old, my guess would be that it is in one of the old ignition section. Anyway, thank you all for good advise. I will try everything you have sugested, and i will ask if it is someting more i have in my mind
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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You can run a jumper wire from the battery to the plus side of the coil. Use a clip for quick disconnect. That will bring spark to the ignition and bypass everything from the key down. At least you will know where the problem isn't that way. Chuck in NH
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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My father have replaced the coil a few years back in time, this is a 6 volt electrical system. What if my father have got the wrong coil and its a 12 volt coil that is mounted on a 6 volt system ? A 12 volt coil are supossed to give 30.000 volt and the 6 volt are 15.000 Volt ? What do you say about that ?
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By crenwelge - 14 Years Ago
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Does the coil have part numbers on it that you can reference. If it is a 12 volt coil, it will probably not start the engine. As suggested before, run a wire from the battery to the coil to bypass everything such as switch and wiring.
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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Am gonna try to run a wire from the battery to the coil tomorow and try to crank the engine to se if anything happend. The electrical wiring in this car is not in the best shape. i have replaced the wiring to the headlight, ore else everything is stock. I will post a reply tomorow when i have tried to run the wire.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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You asked about you coil. Is it 6 volt or 12 volt? A coil can be EITHER and still be used. If you use a volt/ohlm meter and measure the ohlms on the coil from the + plus connection to the _ minus connection if it is 1,25 to 1.5 OHLMS you can use it on a 6 volt system WITHOUT a ballast resistor in the system. THIS WAS FORD 6VOLT 1955 FACTORY IF the ohlms are 2.5 to 3.5 you can use this coil IF YOU ADD A BALLAST RESISTOR. Are you aware that your distributor ALSO HAS and NEEDS a CONDENSER? Hard to check but should be cheap. Possibly a VW 6 volt could be used. I think you said you are in Norway? If so I assume you are inside so please fix that fuel leak or get a very big fire extinguisher. Have you done a compression check yet? If not and you do not have enough compression you will only be rotating the pistons and WEARING OUT THE CAMSHAFT. So until you can answer more questions, goodluck. Pete
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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I did not run the wire from the battery to the coil today. It was not nesesary after some measurement on the low volt side on the coil. Before i cranked the engine the volt landed on 0,21. When i cranked the engine the volt landed on 0,02. I did change the wire shoes and did another measuring. Now it landed on 6,21.. This time when i cranked the engine it was give some noice, and a flame was even coming out of the intake(Chering). I did ohm the coil to 1,95. Now i just got to fix tha carburator leak, and i hope that would do it. Pretty happy now!! Thanks to all the help i have gotten in here
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By Daniel Jessup - 14 Years Ago
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Great! Keep us posted after you get that carburetor rebuilt!
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By crenwelge - 14 Years Ago
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How old is your gas? A flame coming out of the carburetor could be a sticking valve caused by stale gas. Make sure you have fresh gas when you try it so you don't create more problems.
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By yblock55 - 14 Years Ago
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I have filled som new gas into the tank, there was some old gas there from before, but it was not much. I hope that would work fine. A friend of my father have looked at the carburator today. Now it should work just fine, have not tried it. This guy was just amasing, the carburator looks and feels like new. 
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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The fact that it was trying to start is a good sign. Old gas has a tendancy to turn into a sort of varnish that dosen't burn well. Even if you get the engine started it may run wierd for awhile. Set the timeing, make sure the cooling system is working and that you have oil to both rockers then let it run for a bit. Hopefully it will clear up shortly. If it won't clear up it may be necessary to drain the tank and put in fresh gas. Chuck in NH
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