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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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I want to install a restrictor in the rocker shaft pedestal to cut down the amount of oil flowing to the rocker shaft.I deepened the oil groove in the cam when I rebuilt the motor last year.Now I have too much oil and its flooding the head because the oil can't drain fast enough.What size drill bit should I use to drill the restrictor plug?This is a stock motor.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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An oil restrictor size of 0.078” (5/64” drill) should accomplish what you want. Any bigger than this will end up being an excess of oil. Here’s the link to a recent thread discussing the oil supply to the top end and restrictor sizes. http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic10041-3-2.aspx
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted! What does a set screw look like?I was going to use a small pipe plug with the Allen key head like the oil gallery plugs do.What is the size designation needed for a plug/set screw thread/size?
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By mctim64 - 14 Years Ago
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I use a 1/16" (.062") drill and still get plenty of oil to the top. 
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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Mark: The setscrew looks like the plugs you refer to, but come in much smaller sizes. The oil feed hole can be tapped with a 5/16 tap, and a drilled 5/16 set screw installed. Only tap partway through the stand, so the screw can "bottom out" and stay put. Set screws come with straight slots or allen hexes. Local hardware stores should have them.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Mark:
Just to add to John's advice.
You will have to grind the allen set screw shorter as it will be too long and either hit the rocker shaft or be exposed at the bottom of the rocker stand. The allen screw has a tapered end with a circular area to lock pulleys etc solid to shafts. You need to grind this area flat first. Do not take anymore off the bottom than is necessary or you could get through to the hex and loose the orifice you have drilled. The top will need to ground also, just leave enough for your allen key to fit to snug the set screw and slightly below the rocker stand. Trial and trim to do it.
marv
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks guys! Great advice.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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Mark: You can find setscrews as short a 1/4" which will not have to be shortened.
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By 314 - 14 Years Ago
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they are hard and dont drill easy.
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By Doug T - 14 Years Ago
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I took a somewhat different approch, I pressed a plug in the inverted U tubes with a 1/16" hole in it. That way you get oil flowing down the front and back of engine to lube the timing chain and dist gear and pressure in the rocker shaft itself. I also have early Dove Rockers which did not have an oil groove in them until I added it. I felt that the added oil was necessary through the rockers to the roller tips and the pushrod ball. I have PC teflon seals on the valve stems which are supposed to be better oil control so more oil in the area is not a problem. I have not had any wear problems in the valve train and the last time I had it apart the were no signs of wear on the rockers with something like 10,000 miles on the engine.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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314 (4/3/2011)
they are hard and dont drill easy.If the set screws are heated to a ‘cherry red’ and then allowed to slow cool, they will drill much easier. A propane torch works just fine for this.
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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I went ahead today and got the short ones.Tapped the supports.Yes the short ones are hard to drill.Yes Ted is absolutely correct in his suggestion to heat them and let them cool.They are easy to drill after that.One thing I checked while I had the supports disassembled was to see if there is a difference in height depending on which side is "up".I dont see a difference in height no matter which side is up or down.These rocker assemblies I have are NORS reconditioned units from the ford remanufacturer back in the day.Some of the supports are original ford while 2-3 are non Ford which is why I was checking height-to know which way is up with the non Ford ones.Is there a difference in height in certain years?
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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I installed my modified rocker shafts today.Works like a charm.There is a steady flow of oil out the tubes at each end.Not too much oil to be drained at the ends of the head.These shafts I bought have the self locking adjuster screws.MUCH easier to setup than the ones I replaced which had the locknuts on the screws.Anyone who modifies the camshaft oil groove as I did or modifies the cam bearing setup to get more oil flow to the top end would do well to install a restrictor.Thanks for the help everyone.
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By marvh - 14 Years Ago
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Mark;
The problem of excess oil reaching the top seems to be more pronounced now with the new design of camshaft bushings. The mfg has changed them to oil better than the old style did oil.
I was going to mention before you buttoned it up do you have the banana slits under the shafts to oil the bottom of the rockers. This was a mod that Ford did for the FE engines. If you are using heavier valve springs this mod sure helps to prevent galling of the shafts.
marv
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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No I didnt modify the shaft holes.Mine is just a stock motor with standard cam and valve springs.Mine was getting excessive oil because I had the cam oil feed groove deepened.Never could run it with the valve covers off because oil would overflow the heads.Ran it today for several minutes with no problem.Now I have to learn how to adjust the valves with the motor running.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 14 Years Ago
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[quote][b]Ted (4/4/2011) If the set screws are heated to a ‘cherry red’ and then allowed to slow cool, they will drill much easier.
If I recall correctly, a Y-Block Mag. article (John M. ?) suggested grinding down the end of the set-screw so very little material needed drilling. The grinding process also heated the steel, which did make drilling easier after it cooled.
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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I can understand that if you start with the longer ones but with the short ones there is very little to drill as they are without grinding them down.I don't think grinding them will heat them enough to take the temper out of the steel.Took me a couple of minutes each with the propane torch to get them glowing red.
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By 314 - 14 Years Ago
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ted how did you install the cam bearing after doing the block mods.the proper way or did you move the bearing blocking off the two holes to the top.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (4/5/2011)
.... One thing I checked while I had the supports disassembled was to see if there is a difference in height depending on which side is "up". I dont see a difference in height no matter which side is up or down. These rocker assemblies I have are NORS reconditioned units from the ford remanufacturer back in the day. Some of the supports are original ford while 2-3 are non Ford which is why I was checking height-to know which way is up with the non Ford ones. Is there a difference in height in certain years?The Y rocker support stands are equal distance to the shaft when measured from either end. The dimensions remained the same for all years of Y engine production. I simply install the stands with the part number placed at the bottom. The Ford script itself will be upright when doing this but the Ford script varies in being at the top part of the support versus being at the bottom.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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314 (4/8/2011)
ted how did you install the cam bearing after doing the block mods.the proper way or did you move the bearing blocking off the two holes to the top.With the groove being added to the center cam bearing hole, I still install the cam bearing at that location with the three holes aligned. An excess of oil is easily compensated for whereas the lack of it is a show stopper. But here are some additional thoughts on the camshaft journal oiling. If the oiling for the cam journals at the cam bearings was to be taken to the next level, all the cam bearing bores in the block would be grooved to permit a re-clocking of the bearings for the cam bearing to journal feed hole. The ideal entry hole for the oil at the the cam journals would be at the two to three o’clock position looking from the front and with the engine sitting upright. This allows an oil pressure wave under the cam journal which provides an overall improvement in cam bearing wear. This is easily performed on the FE’s as that family of engines already has the necessary groove behind the cam bearing but to do so on the Y would require adding the groove in the appropriate location so that the cam bearings could be appropriately re-clocked.
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