By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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I have a 66 c4 behind a 289 in a 66 Galaxie and the guy burned the transmission before putting in storage last winter. he thought something froze up. I rebuilt the transmission and sure enough, he wiped the teeth right off the clutches. nothing else in the transmission appeared to be wrong. when testing it was doing the same thing he said it did before rebuilding.It drove in reverse fine but forward was locking up and the wheels were chattering as we had it on jack stands. I thought there must be something in the rear end causing it so we pulled that apart. There was one axle bearing pretty gone. Could the bearing have been acting like a one way sprag? Spiders locking? center section feels fine. has anybody heard of such a case? I don't want to ruin a newly built transmission. again, reverse works fine, forwards the rear end and things were bucking and the tires would barely rotate forward. Need help? Thanks.
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By glrbird - 14 Years Ago
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Billy Several years ago a buddy that has a shop had the same problem with a customer car. If I remember right, there was a problem with the converter (broken sprag or something). Did you cannge It after the rebuild? I wish i could be positive but that is all i can remember.
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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The converter is pumping fine for reverse and it turns the same direction, forward or reverse, its hard to beleive that that is the problem but who knows, I hate to have to remove the tranny again.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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Ford C4. It seems like your transmission is in two gears at one time. Check the easy stuff first. Reset both bands to the proper torque 10-ft lbs and the low reverse back off 3 turns. Intermediate band 10-ft lbs and back off 1 3/4 turns. Also check the governer installed the right direction. After that it means the fwd clutch is siezed and you should try to get a replacement. Drum and all. Pete
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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After further investigation and testing, it is working in low and reverse. but drive is locking up. according to the manual it has to be the low reverse band or low reverse servo. Must be fluid leaking by the valve locking the band on, guess I have to tajke the valve body off.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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Do an air check of the C4. A good video on Utube from Badshoe will show you how. Pete Try a Google
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By lowrider - 14 Years Ago
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Just a thought here. You mentioned "sprag" & "overhaul". Depending on how far you disassembled it, on reassembly if you put the sprag in backwards it wont move forward but will go in reverse. It may move forward in manual low gear but its been a few years. It should work like a one way clutch, it will spin in one direction and lock up in the other. If you put it in backwards it spins both ways. Dont ask how I know this.
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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I don't beleive anything is in backwards, this was a perfect running transmission which he was driving until last fall when he went to put it up and it started doing this, he ended up wiping the teeth off the clutches by forcing it, now after the rebuild it is doing the same so a valve is leaking by, blocked passage, or not directing the fluid in the correct way,. I think the reverse/low band and servo are staying on when in drive, But why?
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By lowrider - 14 Years Ago
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You mentioned that the teeth on the clutches were wiped out. Forward clutch, rev/high clutch or both? When you reassembled it were the splines on the clutch hubs where the clutches ride smooth (so the clutch discs can release smoothly and not get caught on a spline & keep turning). They just about have to be pristine to work correctly. Power flow in drive runs through the front clutch & sprag, in manual low it runs through the forward clutch & low/reverse band if I remember correctly.
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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I installed a new cluth hub with pristine teeth.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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After a automatic transmission has a mayjor failure then debris from the clutchs and metal shaving are carried to the transmission cooler and to the torque converter. After the transmission is repaired and BEFORE it its reinstalled you must remove this trash. Most auto parts stores have a kit to do this. Use your Google. Clean this stuff out or it come back and ends up in your valve body and thats not good. If you remove the valve body and do an air check then you can see the rear band apply and see it release. After that you can clean the crap that is in your valve body out from the valve body that you have already removed and that might just fix your problem. On the C4 there are some check balls between the seperator plate and the body. Work over a big pan to collect the balls and replace them in the right places. The Haynes manual is very good . Lots of pictures. The C4 is really a very simple A/T to work on. Pete
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By lowrider - 14 Years Ago
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I'm running out of ideas. What about broken steel rings on the stator support & rear oil dist. at the back of the trans? Where the stator support rings ride in the rev/high clutch drum are there grooves worn into it? After that I guess I would air check it. No more than 15psi pressure. Any clutch will apply w/shop air. Like Pete said it need to be clean. If you drop the pan & theres material in it I would go thru it again. Regarding the check balls in the main control, alot of them used rubber check balls that would desinigrate over time. On a side note, if you leave out the "hockey puck" in the main control you get a nice firm 1-2 shift.
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks guy's, I got it sorted. I did all the air pressure checks, clutches kicked in and out fine, but the reverse/low band appeared to be too tight ( I don't understand because I double checked it twice on the bench with an inch pound torque wrench made in Athol Mass where Starrett is, its old but appears to be a good one) re set it again and backed out 3 turns and it is shifting great. The book was right, reverse/low band or reverse/low servo.
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By lowrider - 14 Years Ago
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Glad you got it fixed. Like your tag line said "stumped" thats where I was.
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