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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Ok I'm about to re-install my valley cover I'm convinced thats where the bad leaking has been coming from, high up and at the back of the motor.. Any other ideas helpfull . I dont have the spark wire holders on.. Can leak from there? I have new ones to go on, just need the diagram of where they should go. The only thing I could see was oil had made it on top of the cover at the back, leaking past the grommet? the bolt could only go so far down and stop, this may have stopped it from being tight enough. I will add some washers to the top so it can go a bit further down. Also the cover looks twisted, is this common to do on install they are a bit of a pain to get in. The gasket was fine and sitting in the right spot just didnt seem to be able to stop the leak even with a bit of non hardening goo on it .. I will do my best at getting it straight and will use an RTV type sealant this time . Is there any other tricks I can do, or something Im missing.. Ohh I do have a PVC outlet as well but all seemed fine with that ... Mark I would love to drill and tap but Im going to try without..
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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There are a couple of bolt holes at the back around the wire looms. One of them is open into the valle and will leak. Just put a bolt in it. Should be on the drivers side rear its either the wire loom bolt or one near it. Chuck 
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Im sure I have a bolt in the top hole but I dont think there is anything in the ones at the back , from memory they are on the back of the head?
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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The one I'm thinking of is in the block next to where the wire loom bolts down. Its next to the hole the top wire bracket uses. Chuck
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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Drilling and tapping is much easier than you might think.The c iron cast really drills very easily with a quality drill bit.My only other suggestion is dont tighten the bolts too much.The recommended torque is not much more than snug-about 2lbs.Good luck!
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Seems odd not to tighten them up too much [ Im aware of that] but you can imagine them coming loose on a vibrating motor easy if not done up to well....
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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If you overtighten the bolts it will lift the edges.Overtightening is how the pans get distorted.Not one of fords better ideas when it came to the pan attachment.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Just came in from [trying] fitting those spark lead holders.. Never again! what a pain in the arse.. some of the leads where short and not on the right plugs but it was just hard enough fitting those holders I just left it.. pfft!  Valley cover tomorrow.. gawd!
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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They do take some measuring to prefit the wires into the brackets.Took me about 3 tries to get them setup properly.Some of the aftermarket kits have the wires too short.I bought a set of Ford replacements on Ebay and even they were very short.If you look at the shop manual the illustrations show a nice set of long wires that fit well.Where do you buy a set like that today?When you install the 2 brackets on the block under the exhaust manifolds one bracket "faces" out from the block and the other side "tucks" inside against the block away from the exhaust manifold.If you look at the pic that Moonshadow posted its the left bracket that "tucks" under the block.The right side is opposite and "faces" out.The brackets were missing comepletly on mine when I got the car.As far as overtightening the valley pan the same applies to the rocker covers.They dont need to be tightened much more than the valley cover because they also become distorted where the hold down bolts are.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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I'd love a pic of the right side I just couldn't see where that one goes? Yep got the left side facing in . Bugger I haven't got any spare grommets for the valley pan and the old ones are quite hard... Might have to pinch one lot from a rocker cover and replace later.. 
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By paul2748 - 14 Years Ago
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Put a straight edge on the valley cover mating surface. It's probably distorted. Bend it back so they are straight. Use some high temp silicone on the gasket, both sides.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Yup thats the plan!! I'll make sure I can get it in without twisting and forcing it in too! ..Just do not want this leak again!!
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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
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The new gasket should have come with new grommets.Not there?If you are trying to place the right side bracket under the manifold there is a threaded hole same as left side.Depending on how much crud is on the block you may not see that hole right away.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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I thought I had some as I have had a full engine gasket kit, not there?? Rocker ones I have .. I'll re use the neoprene gasket again it looks fine... Plenty of RTV..
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Don't get too carried away with the RTV. You don't want any of it pressing into the engine when you tighten the bolts. This stuff can raise He&& with oil pumps etc.. I put the metal valley cover in at an angle so it goes under one head, press it down as far as it goes and then gently pry with a long handle screw driver to get it the rest of the way. Pry in the notched areas. Put the screw driver down against the head and pry forward an down. This will move the valley pan tight against the opposite head and allow it to drop down. Make sure you go gently so the valley pan flexes but doesn't bend. If this won't work you can grind a little off the 4 slotted areas until it slips in. Only enough to get it in shouldn't affect the sealing area. Chuck
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By paul2748 - 14 Years Ago
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Regarding the grommets. I always cut them down about half way to make sure they will not cause the bolts to interfere with the intake.
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Bugger! Bugger!... I have stopped the leak at the top but it seems its a comination leak, must be the rear main.. Just as bad as ever.. Behind the inspection plate when I checked about a week ago it was quite dry nothing splatered over the ring gear and torque converter.. is that common?? Its coming from where the motor and trans meet about half way up [just above the oil pump, pump is dry] and runs down the split..Discovered that my front uni is shot too!! doh!!
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