I have an engine on a test stand that does this.  After installing some heads that had been rebuilt, and shim gaskets, oil leaked at the bottom edge on one side.  The head on the leaking side hadnt been surfaced.  After milling the one head and reinstalling, the leak didnt change.  So it will either require CR dropping comp gaskets, or block decking.  The head bolts are at 72 and in order.

The oil appears mostly between #6 and 7 cylinders.  Part of it drains down the side of block and drops off the top engine mount boss.  Another part of it migrates backward along the head/deck seam and comes down in the area of the oil pump.

 I wont be taking the motor out to do the rear main. It will be a job for Sneaky Pete!

(sorry couldn't resist!)

Yep, I have no plans on touching it!  I can't imagine the time and skill it took those of you who have these awesome clean restored cars to get them that way.  I have a TON of respect for when I see such a clean car like TalkWrench's.

I was bleeing the brakes yesterday and the rust holes in the floorboard (where there clearly wasn't enough grease undercoating!) came in handy because the holes in the floor lined up just perfectly for me to be able to see my bleeder bottle to watch for bubbles while I was sitting inside the car!!

sure I did nothing wrong... Bugger!!! 

Doh!! could it really be the cam plug .....

The seals seemed to fit well. They came out of a Felpro kit FS7999 PT -3.

On the seal packet is P6141-1 there is nothing marked on the packet that held the side plugs..?

Surely it would be obvious if they were 312 seals, or is there very little in it??

Ted is referring that using a smaller 272 seal on the larger 312 crank then there would be a problem. I believe you have 272/292 and that felpro seal is correct, ted will correct me on anything ive missed or out on.  My personal thoughts are that replacing a rope seal while in the car with neoprene seal is more likely to have problems, as removing all traces of old seal from block groove would be near impossible and i allways check if seal half in block sits flush with block as i,ve come across some early blocks with shallow depth groove that distorts seal when cap is snugged down hence going oval and oil leaks follow. Just my view on general points. I have renewed neoprene seals previously  fitted in block and is easy.

Ditto on what Bill said.  I was referring to using the 292 seal on a 312 crankshaft.  Just insure that your main caps have EBU on them and not ECZ.

 I have looked in the past for ECZ on the caps and saw nothing.  Im damn sure I had it all spotless when doing it. I use contact cleaner to blast away oil and small bits as well as blowing it with compressed air. I'll be honest and say the only thing I did do that was different Ted was I sat the seals flush with the block and cap. I know that they sat just slightly proud [as it should, a bees dick as we would say.. ok maybe a little more]. I did think about this, I would have much prefered to do it your way BUT I had no way of gaurenteeing that the ends sticking out would slide into where they should when putting the cap on. On and engine stand guess its easier to check that stuff. Im still confident I did everthing correctly it should have worked...

 I know where the oil is coming from Its still the same.. It comes from between the motor and trans and starts halfway up [possibly a little higher] and its there on both sides

Because its the same as it was Im thinking it now must be something else..