By speedpro56 - 14 Years Ago
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I'm with you Charlie, enough already.
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By 569104 - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie, That sucks!!! I understand about wanting to change brands but will Dove make it right? What are the details when it happened?....6500 rpm grabbing gears or idling in the driveway? Let us know.
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie, Do I see some dark metal at the bottom of the lower picture? That would seem to indicate a crack that was there for a while. They need to fix these before any more Y-Blockers suffer this type of failure. Eventually someone will lose an engine to this. As you say this type of failure is unacceptable. How many of these have failed you and other Y's guys? I'm sure I wont buy any from them! Chuck in NH
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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Wow, it cant get more frustrating than that! Better change brands before something worse happens.
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By 569104 - 14 Years Ago
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I agree 100%. You need change those out before the rest of your engine gets ruined. For the price of the rockers they should hold up to a full on race engine...not just a mild street engine. It's a sad situation though. There aren't that many performance parts out there for the "Y's" and now there will be one less...for me anyways. Good luck and lets us know how the Rocker Arm Specialist work out and if Dove does anything.
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By stuey - 14 Years Ago
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thats real scary i'm just about to fit a set of those....spent a day so far juggling shims to get them centred over the valve stems and maintain 50 thou side play. it seems odd to me it broke on the low side when all the pressure is upwards? i'm looking at one now and yours seem slightly different. mine are not "splined" like yours appear to be.. have you spoke to Dove if so let us know what they have to say best regards stuey
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By Glen Henderson - 14 Years Ago
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Damn Charlie, that makes me worry about the set on my motor.
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By yalincoln - 14 Years Ago
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hi charlie, is that a drip of oil or a piece of metal between the spring coils?
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By The Master Cylinder - 14 Years Ago
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Just curious, is anyone else running these rocker and have they had any problems with them? I have them on my 312" and have not had any of the problems that Charlie has had.
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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The Master Cylinder (7/24/2011) Just curious, is anyone else running these rocker and have they had any problems with them? I have them on my 312" and have not had any off the problems that Charlie has had.Well i had them on my 312 when they 1st came out years back and was chewing up adjuster balls on some, i dont know if it was the p/rod cups or soft adjusters, Ted revised the oiling by grinding diagonal oiling grooves on the shafts, some of the users had no problems so not sure where to aim the gun. I,m am reluctant to run them on new engine but am thinking on it a bit more.
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By 46yblock - 14 Years Ago
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Sometime ago I mentioned a problem like Charlie's to a friend. He said it may be an issue of harmonics. Hard to identify, but still destructive. One problem he had was with his light plane exhaust breaking twice, the second time even after being factory reinforced. I think the culprit had something to do the the propeller. Another problem he had with a BBC which kept breaking one (or maybe more) rocker studs. Dont remember what he said other than it being harmonics related.
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By The Master Cylinder - 14 Years Ago
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[quote]Ted (7/24/2011) "This would include examining the underside of the rockers for any retainer to rocker clearance, double checking for spring coil bind, damper bind, retainer seal clearance, and inadequate shaft to rocker clearance to name few."
Charlie, now that Ted mentions it when I first installed my rockers they were hitting the spring retainer when fully closed. I had to get longer push rods to rectify the problem. I don't think that is what caused your breakage but like Ted suggests check "the underside of the rockers for any retainer to rocker clearance".
Also came to mind, do you think it is at all possible that you have a valve to piston clearance problem? Remote, but thought I would throw it out there.
Best of luck to ya,
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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Sorry to hear Charlie, Just too many failures for my liking, I have been running the stock hard on my engine with no problems. Are you sure this is off your truck and not a spare engine you had just kicking around? whereas its close to Columbus time, you wouldn't be looking for an excuse would you?
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By pintoplumber - 14 Years Ago
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Wow Charlie, I'm sorry. I was thinking this weekend of posting that it's about time for you to start your trip to Columbus so you make it in time.
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (7/26/2011) I was thinking that I might put together a spare engine, bring it and the hoist so I can do a road side engine swap.charlie, i,m guessingf you,ve had a long carefull look at the other rockers for any signs of fatigue?
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By Y block Billy - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie, Is this one that has had a ball or pushrod problem before? if so it could have jammed and started a slight crack before that was un-noticable and after running some time since, finally failed from fatigue.
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By Glen Henderson - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie, I have a set of 1.53's assembled on new shafts that I will loan you if needed. Just let me know.
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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You sure have had a bad run on those rockers. Seems like you are the test mule for them! Chuck
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By Talkwrench - 11 Years Ago
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Ahhhh That's just BS !! Give them a miss and go back to flat rockers...
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By CK - 11 Years Ago
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Maybe its the angle of the valves or the rocker is actually moving ie. the spacer between rockers on the shaft. This could allow the roller to roll over the front/side of valve tip or side. This would stress at the weaker area as where yours have broken. I guess the material may have just fatigued just the same, a poor casting.
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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from what i see the axel walked out,as most likely not tight enough from new. they are only serated 1 side to hold in place.had a set for 302 off ebay and rollers wher not centered,taped the the axel out and made a thin washer taped back with lock tight on serations and non serated end.from what i experienced do not have any long term confidence in roller rockers made this way. some will be ok but as we see only takes 1.fome the pictures ther is no other possibility for this failure. get a set of rockers (stock with brass bushings) deleted draine pipes and never look back.Just a dum canadians failure analyses
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By Richard - 11 Years Ago
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I have a set on my engine, thinking they were a solid item and planned on using them for the street. Have only break in hours on the motor. Has anyone called Dove on the problem. These things are not $400 plus so you expect them to work. Could it be a push road length problem?
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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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Not knowing what adjusters were used in the Dove aplication but in my building one off roller rockers for my GMC 6 I took extra care in both the the top and bottom of the push rods. I sent a lift and an adjuster to Smith Pushrods now located in Oregon to make the proper rod especially the length. The said they knew what ball I had on the adjuster (Chrysler) and what the top of my lifter looked like but I took no chances. I'm sure they know what a Y-block lifter needs. I had the pushrods back in 3 days.......Good Luck
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By aussiebill - 11 Years Ago
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56Roger (6/10/2014)
Richard (6/10/2014)
I have a set on my engine, thinking they were a solid item and planned on using them for the street. Have only break in hours on the motor. Has anyone called Dove on the problem. These things are not $400 plus so you expect them to work. Could it be a push road length problem?
Knowing what I know now, I highly recommend removing the rockers and taking a good close look at them. A machinist type good look at them. Then carefully place them somewhere they will never get used on an engine again. That is what I would say if being polite.
Not being an always polite guy and spending my whole life in shops what I actually would say is something else entirely.
The engine I am writing about didn't go much past 200 miles before the rockers failed. EDIT: We went with Smiths on the next go round. Rockers from Rocker Arm Specialists. HMM. interesting to see others had Dove rocker problems, i brought my set when they were 1st available yrs back and had pushrod cups splitting and breaking, eventually took them off , checked everything and havent been confident to reuse them.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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I've heard of other people having issues with Dove products. Seems as though they have great ideas but not the manpower or technology to manufacture the stuff correctly. Shame, they're an Ohio company from the same area I was raised in. I'd be a lot happier if the parts had a good reputation.
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By Richard - 11 Years Ago
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I sent them an Email to see if I get a reply. In the meantime I plan to call Rocker Arm Specialty to see what they can do with a set of 1:56
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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 I think it's time to give up on the Dove's and try rocker arm specialist. I can't find anything I've done wrong to cause the repeated failures. I just don't trust these anymore.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I was not abusing it at all. No more than 3000rpm, normal driving when this happened. I don't really care if they'll make it right. I've had so many problems since switching to these that I just don't want any more. We're not talking ultra high spring pressures here. This is a mild street motor. There's no excuse for it. I never had these issues with stock, even more worn out rocker arms.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (7/23/2011) Charlie, Do I see some dark metal at the bottom of the lower picture?It's just oil. yalincoln (7/24/2011) hi charlie, is that a drip of oil or a piece of metal between the spring coils?It's a drop of oil. Ted, The wheel is still loose and turns smoothly on the axle. I've examined these things to death because of previous issues. If there's something wrong I'm just not experienced enough to spot it. Everything you mention I've checked previously and is fine according to the best of my understanding. How much is a set of harland sharp rockers and are they available as assemblies? I looked at the website a couple days ago. They're not in the catalog yet.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I wish it was off of a spare engine.
Actually, this presents a bit of a different situation this year. I just bought my first house and so a lot of my spare cash is going towards buying furniture, painting, fixing stuff, lawn equipment, etc. I really didn't want to have to spend any money on the truck for the rest of the year. I have plenty of stuff that I've already purchased, wire harness, passenger side floor pan, rust preventative measures, etc. that I can work on and keep busy until the end of the year easily. Of course, first I have to get the garage arranged.
I can always put my old rockers back on... if I can find them. But I'll give the rocker arm specialist a call today. Hopefully they can get a set to me in the next couple weeks 'caus it's getting very close.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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Ted,
I reread your post and notice you say nothing about street engines. They are dragster or dyno engines. I've heard that aluminum rockers are not up to the task on a street engine. I don't tend to listen very well to that type of info because I like to find out for myself and I've learned that there is a lot of incorrect or misunderstood info as a result but it very well could be what is happening in this instance. Say a weekend racer actually manages to race every weekend of the year, and assume that he gets 10-15 runs in which is probably a lot, that's only 130-195 miles put on the engine a year. I'll do 3,000 - 4,000 a year easily. Granted, I'm not running it to 7000 rpm as the race car does but I'm doing half of that much of the time for longer duration and distance. Factor in the time idling in traffic, and it seems that the rockers get worked much harder on the street.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I was thinking that I might put together a spare engine, bring it and the hoist so I can do a road side engine swap.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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This is the first time that a rocker broke. The only other issue has been that they eat up pushrods, and the one screw that wore. I had none of these issues before switching to the doves. I had over 10000 miles on the set of pushrods with original rockers and screws before switching to the Dove rocker arms and never had a problem. Switch to dove and suddenly they're getting chewed up.
I'll take you up on your offer for a replacement rocker arm. I forgot to call the Rocker arm specialist. If they're a couple weeks out, then at least with a new arm I'll be able to use the truck because I still have stuff to move out of a friend's house. I'm not sure which offset it is. It's the second valve from the front on the passenger side, so, lack of coffee this morning, I believe that's #1 intake.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I don't recall. I'll have to see if I can find it in my notes... if I can find my notes.
I just got off the phone with Gary at rockerarms.com. He says they're about a month out. I'll just find my old rockers, assemble them before the trip to Columbus and bring the pair along just in case.
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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#5 intake broke on Friday, in the same way as #1 intake about 3 years ago. I'm done with the Dove rocker arms. Trying another brand. Should have done that before.
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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I got a set of Harland sharp rockers. It looks like they have a larger diameter roller and axle and they are simply much more substantial. The adjuster screws use a larger allen wrench and the jam nuts are 12 point. I like both of those. They also seem easier to adjust. I had to really develop a feel for the Dove's. I adjust those loose so that when I tighten the jam nut it's where I want it, but with these, where you have the adjuster screw is pretty much where it stays when you tighten the nut.
I'll finish installation in the coming days.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie. I’ve run the Dove roller rockers well over thirty years now in a variety of applications and that’s the first one I’ve seen snapped off at the roller tip like that. Although I’ll not rule out a simple failure due to material fatigue, be sure to check for underlying causes. Although the break you have is what I’d call a ‘no load induced failure’, it would be prudent to look for anything out of the ordinary in the valve train area. This would include examining the underside of the rockers for any retainer to rocker clearance, double checking for spring coil bind, damper bind, retainer seal clearance, and inadequate shaft to rocker clearance to name few. I’m assuming the roller wheel is still loose on the axle? If not and the roller wheel is seized to the axle, then that could have been the root cause for the failure. Other than issues with the adjuster studs on the Dove rockers, I’ve had only minor issues regarding shaft to rocker arm clearances. The Dove roller rockers for the Y that I have been using have been repeatedly pulled to 7200 rpms without problems. My altered roadster engine has used them since 2001 and both of my EMC engine entries used them. The 2009 EMC entry had over 410 pounds over the nose pressure in order to go 7500 rpms and there were zero issues anywhere in the valve train. But I still adhere to the rule that once aluminum rocker arms hit the 10 year old mark, I replace them. It’s after that point that aluminum fatigue issues do start to crop up. Years of FE experience with those rockers has set that rule. I will be talking to Dove this week though and I’ll bring up your broken tip scenario and see what they say in regards to if there’s been a problem with roller tip pins loosening up or other issues that could be related to this. The fact that your rocker tip is broken on its underside and not the top side eliminates quite a few possibilities and makes rocker failure itself high on the list. Rocker Arm Specialist is just now coming back up to speed after some internal management issues over the last year so Y rockers on their end should be available again. Harland Sharp is also making Y roller tipped rocker arm combinations for both the iron and aluminum heads so that’s another option.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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Charlie. The Harland Sharp rockers are not available as ready to go assemblies. Up to now, I’ve been honing the individual rockers for the shaft to rocker arm fit but the guys at Custom Speed are working on addressing that so they are more easily installed by anyone. I’ll have a better feel on current pricing when the four sets that are currently ordered arrive within the next week or so. Pricing has been running about $125 a set higher than the Doves prior to this.
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By Ted - 14 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (7/26/2011) Ted, I reread your post and notice you say nothing about street engines. They are dragster or dyno engines. I've heard that aluminum rockers are not up to the task on a street engine. I don't tend to listen very well to that type of info because I like to find out for myself and I've learned that there is a lot of incorrect or misunderstood info as a result but it very well could be what is happening in this instance. Say a weekend racer actually manages to race every weekend of the year, and assume that he gets 10-15 runs in which is probably a lot, that's only 130-195 miles put on the engine a year. I'll do 3,000 - 4,000 a year easily. Granted, I'm not running it to 7000 rpm as the race car does but I'm doing half of that much of the time for longer duration and distance. Factor in the time idling in traffic, and it seems that the rockers get worked much harder on the street.It’s a given that most of the aluminum rockers are used in low mileage or race orientated performance vehicles. But I’ve been involved with several FE’s with 50K+ street driven miles on the aluminum shaft mounted rockers that have ran without issue and these are engines that get run hard when being driven. As far as wear at the shaft goes in a street driven application, gut feel says that the aluminum on steel would wear out very quickly but that hasn’t proved to be the case either. As long as oil is adequate at the shafts, wear is minimal although still more than what you’d see with iron rockers. I’ll add that fatigue with any aluminum rocker arm is still a problem after a given number of years but in your case I’d rule that out as yours are not quite that old yet. Your particular break is unique in that the tip area is broken out on the bottom side where it’s being stressed in the opposite direction. With all that’s happened in your case in regards to valve train issues, this looks to actually be your first instance of a failure with the rocker arm body itself. I recall you having some rocker adjuster issues in the past as well as pushrod problems but nothing up till now regarding the rocker arm body. I’m assuming this was a right offset rocker? If so, then just give me a shout and I’ll get another heading your way. If this works for you, then I would like to have your broken rocker so I can examine it more closely.
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