Loadomatic-Teapot question


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By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
Working on a friends 56 with 292.He has a rebuilt NORS Teapot carb.It was leaking so I replaced the brass cover over the needle and seat with a new one from Casco.Leak fixed.Now it wont idle smoothly in drive and the mixture screws have no real affect on adjusting them.Any suggestions on what to look at.We put the old carb back on and it runs better than the new one so I dont think there are any vacuum leaks.Also noticed the needle and seat were new style soft tip with NO clip attaching needle to float.Good idea to change it to old style steel with clip?Other thing I noticed is the distribtor timing advances at idle when you hook up one vacuum line and then more when you hook up the second.The springs in dist. are not broken.I thought timing was not to advance until off idle driving.Am I wrong or is there something not correct with the Loadomatic?Thanks!
By DANIEL TINDER - 14 Years Ago
Mark,



Be advised if you change to a steel needle valve, the float level will have to be reset. I installed that clip on the viton needle, so it will be less likely to stick in the seat when it eventually softens up.

Not familiar with the '56 dual diaphragm setup. My Holley 4000 '56 manual addendum doesn't mention it's operating details. Does your friend have the '56 Ford shop manual? I would think that might be a good place to start.
By GREENBIRD56 - 14 Years Ago
Mark - this is gonna be crude....but:

One of the vacuum pots on the dizzy responds to venturi vacuum - the more air flowing through the carb venturi, the more vacuum applied. It should rise with steady rpm inceases - and increase the advance. After a fashion, it is providing the same feature as our later distributors with mechanical advance.

The second pot responds to manifold vacuum - provides additional advance when the engine is not accelerating (high manifold vacuum) - and cuts it back when the engine is accelerating (lower manifild vacuum).

Like I said ...very crude description.....

By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
I switched the needle to a steel one I had in the carb I took off mine.Reset the level.Also cleaned out the internal idle circuits with compressed air while I had the top off and opened up the connecting passageway that Hoosier had told me about when I had one on mine.Supposed to help with the off idle "stumble" that these carbs came with.I have a shop manual and does not say whether the advance should work at idle or not.Hoping someone more familiar with the workings of the Loadomatic can tell me.One thing I did notice when we had the carb on the car and running is by half closing the choke plate the idle would smooth right out.I am wondering now if the secondary was partially stuck a little open instead of completely closed giving a lean mixture  at idle.I will try it back on next weekend and see if my cleaning out will fix the problem.Hoping someone can tell me about the loadomatic before than.
By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
Thanks Steve.When I start it with lines connected it goes to about 20-25 degrees(best guess) advance.When I raise RPM it does NOT advance further.Wish I could convince my buddy to buy the later distributor and let me set it up like mine.Maybe if I get the carb straightened out he will hopefully.
By joey - 14 Years Ago
Mark, you might find some of this information useful:

http://www.m571.com/yblock/loadomatic.htm

By DANIEL TINDER - 14 Years Ago
Mark,



When you had the other carb that ran better installed, did you have the same problem with too much advance at idle? If not, I would suspect a defective spark control valve on the first carb.
By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
It was the same with both.I thought the same thing-possible defective valve but it made no difference with the second carb.Thanks for that post Joey!
By joey - 14 Years Ago
sure thing BigGrin