Chemical to show combustion gases in coolant water?


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By yehaabill - 14 Years Ago
Y-Guys:   Every few weeks I have had an overheating condition with my "Y".

           I'm trying to cover my bases before Thursday. First I'd like to make sure

           I don't have a blown head gasket...secondly a waterpump malfunction.

              Here's the deal, back in the spring I had put the 'stat in backwards

          and it would heat up(210 plus). I corrected that by taking it out.)Summer

          was coming!) Truck ran fine for several weeks staying around 150/160.

          One day it jumped to 210/230 in a 1/2 mile of driving. I figured it was low

          water.. put some in...still hot230/240...I have an aftermarket radiator and

          the top radiator hose may have been higher than the radiator inlet(L-shaped)

          so I trimmed the 'stat side shorter and bingo...it hasn't run hot until yesterday.

          I drove 10-12 miles wA/C on it stayed 160/170. Pulled in shop to do a few things,

          backed it out 1 hr later and it went to 210 in3/4 minutes! I figured I had an air

          bubble in it...but why now? I bought a radiator drain cock and put it in the heater

          hose outlet on the water pump thinking I might bleed the air out......

               I cranked the truck with the cock open and then closed but no water comes out

          it seems that it's not circulating, The inlet side of the radiator gets hot enough

          to turn on my electric fan(190 turn-on)The outlet side is cool to the touch and

         the air being pulled thru the radiator is cool! Can a waterpump quit pumping?

              I'll appreciate any and all suggestions.

                                                    Thx,

                                                     Bill

                                                   

By MarkMontereyBay - 14 Years Ago
Here is are few things you could do. Put a T Stat back in it. Refill the cooling system with an open port at the highest point on the engine. Usually on a Y block it is the heater control valve or plug on the intake in front of the carb in the coolant crossover area. Fill it until coolant runs out the port and then close it. Make sure your radiator cap is good and holds the right amount of pressure. Stant makes a radiator pressure tester kit for cooling systems with cap adapters for that purpose. Usually a decent shop will have the tester. Otherwise if you can get a new cap for a few bucks. Start and run the engine until the T Stat opens, and top off the coolant level to an inch or so below then neck in the radiator. You should see coolant flowing at idle in the radiator. If you are using an electric fan in place of a belt driven one, double check that your electrical connections, temp sensor, switches, etc. are working properly and not intermittently. Also, check your gauge operation. Is the engine really getting hot or is the gauge fooling you.



Here is a link to the combustion gas block tester:



http://www.blockchek.com/index.htm
By Ted - 14 Years Ago

Bill.  Are you running a restrictor in the bypass hose or the bypass hose blocked off?  If so, then the restrictor could be plugged this creating an air lock either in the water pump and/or top of the timing cover where the coolant must make a downward turn to get coolant back to the block.

By LON - 14 Years Ago
Bill ,

I was at a mate's  ( Capt Cusso ) place on the weekend . He is having the same problem with a race motor .A 292 putting out around 400+ HP.One  head  is lifting even with head studs . Maybe going to 1/2 inch head bolts may help.?? A chemical was used to detect carbon monoxide in the radiator .Started our reading about 2000 ppm .Finally got in down to 340ppm by taking some timing off.It's an issue he will have to address in time ,but for now it will live for a few more races .Short term fix maybe  to use a splash of methanol in the gas . I am pretty sure ( but,don't hold me to it ????)the final dyno figures were 415 @ 6300rpm at the wheels .

Lon

By pegleg - 14 Years Ago
Bill,

      I'd start by backflushing the rad to make sure you don't have something floating in it that plugs it up. Then i'd pull the water pump off and check the impeller to be sure it's not slipping on the shaft.

By Y-Block Stan - 14 Years Ago
Hi Bill, The first thing I would recommend is to use a temp gun to check temps went it is hot .  to make temp that hot that fast  does'nt seem right. Also put a t-stat back in, it slows water flow so the coolant can absorb the heat. I run a 160 degree in my 292 with an electric fan, (no mechanical fan) and on a 90 degree day I never get over 185. If you need a pressure tester or a block tester(checks for combustion gases in radiator) let me know an I'll bring them to columbus. Stan
By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
LON (8/30/2011)
Bill ,

I was at a mate's  ( Capt Cusso ) place on the weekend . He is having the same problem with a race motor .A 292 putting out around 400+ HP.One  head  is lifting even with head studs . Maybe going to 1/2 inch head bolts may help.?? A chemical was used to detect carbon monoxide in the radiator .Started our reading about 2000 ppm .Finally got in down to 340ppm by taking some timing off.It's an issue he will have to address in time ,but for now it will live for a few more races .Short term fix maybe  to use a splash of methanol in the gas . I am pretty sure ( but,don't hold me to it ????)the final dyno figures were 415 @ 6300rpm at the wheels .

Lon

Hey, lon, i might be heading to Eastern ck raceway to see the roadracing masters challenge where Allen will be racing i hope?

By PF Arcand - 14 Years Ago
For those totally out of the loop, Cap't Cusso is Allen Boughen from Oz, who is a 56 Ford driving Road Racer. He runs in the Historic category & was once timed at 143 mph @7300 rpm on the straight at Bathhurst Raceway. For further info see Y-Blk magazine, issue #96, Jan-Feb. 2010. Reprints available...