I have the intake for that carburetor but it was from the 272 Y block and I noticed that that intake is different than the one from the 239.  So I am looking for an adaptor plate to go from the 3 stud bottle neck carb. to the 4 stud Holley.  I have spent a couple hours looking for one but I have been unsucessful.  Does anyone know if someone makes one.

I should also ask would it be fine running the 239 with the Holley?

Thank You.

Goodluck,

Ron.

I have the intake for the carb. pictured above the problem I seen with it was that the intake ports are 1/8" inch bigger on the intake than on the heads.  With that intake I could bolt up my original linkages but I just thought there would be a problem the ports being so different in size.  I did notice that the linkage mounts are on opposite sides of the intake as that of the Holley 2bl.  Thanks

I will check that link out.  I did notice the difference in the size and that is why I stuck with the original 239 intake instead of my 272 intake for the 2 bl Holley.  If nothing else I might have to live with the stock 239 2bl.  I just wanted to put the 2bl Holley on because it has already been rebuilt and I have a new chrome Holley air cleaner to go on it.  Plus the 239 carb hasn't been rebuilt yet.  Thanks

To be honest I am not really looking for the performance end of my truck.  I will be driving this truck so slow and easy it will be remarkable a person could drive so slow Hahaha (this is probably the only time you will hear that from a 22 year old ).  I actually down graded the truck from a 272 to the 239 but not on purpose, but to me it won't matter anyways.

That is still nice to know though that it won't make much of a difference.  I just thought I could save some money by not having to get the 2 bl bottle neck carb rebuilt but if I have to get new linkages anyways I might just have the bottle neck rebuilt if it makes linkaging a little easier.  Thanks

I will never throw any parts I have duplicates and triplicates of so many parts and I will even have a hard time selling those much less throwing them away. I guess I will have to look at if which gasket will work best 239 or 272. The only thing is I guess I already have the 239 intake already painted.

So I take it that there is not an adaptor out on the market that will work. If so I might actually see if I can CNC machine one at my work. I can also model it up with the 3D CAD software to see what it will look like. That way I might actually be able to reuse my original linkaging. But I might still have to think of something to do to bolt it to and manifold. I will have to do some research or decision making yet.

I tried your link and I didn't see an adaptor that looked like what I am looking for.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic18648-3-1.aspx?Highlight=fuel+pump+239

  Good luck!

  Topkat54

OK thanks you guys.  I after I read that I was wondering if there was supposed to be a vacuum line tying the two together.  I wasn't sure though, I don't think I have any original pictures of the motor before I tore it apart but I do remember that there is infact a vacuum line still on the distributor.  I think at one point I did look at changing out the drive gear on the end of the distributor, but I think it was more so I could reuse the one from my 272.  Because that one has all new points, rotor, cap, wires, ect.  Well if there is that big of a run around all to get the Holley on it I might as well go to the original.  That way all I have to do now is link up the throttle instead of redoing everything.

While we are on the subject of fuel delivery.  Does anyone know if there is typically a problem with the switching of the timing chain covers?

Because I have the cover to my old 272 (the one for the trucks) on this 239.  Everything bolted up just fine but I thought at one point a while back I heard about there being a problem with the fuel pump?  My new pump went in just fine but I think I heard someone say that the pump gets worn out prematurely because of the arm being overextended?  Does anyone know for sure.

Thanks,

I've never had that problem with a fuel pump. Installing one can be hard if you don't get the arm engaged with the eccentric just right.

As far as the timing cover goes, a lot of the y block parts are interchangable. It sounds like that is one.

topkat54

The way I think of it is if you were to change the gear on the end of the distributor from 13 (239) teeth to 14 (272) teeth, that would also change the gear ratio on the end of the cam?

I was thinking on the fuel pump more and was thinking that the only thing that I could think of as being the problem is the cap that bolts to the end of the cam (the cap that pumps the arm of the fuel pump).  I was thinking that if there is indeed a problem with the fuel pump that maybe those caps are different diameters from the 239 fuel pump to the 272 fuel pump (239 fuel pump the glass bowl is on top with the sraight arm going upwards, and the 272's glass bowl is on the bottom and the arm goes upwards but has a slight bend in it).  I was thinking maybe those cap are different diameters, 239's is probably bigger?

Does anyone have any idea?  Thanks

Ok they helps and makes more sense.  I guess I will assume that the fuel pump will be fine.  When I get to trying to start it for the first time I guess we will find out right.  I might even check it out before my truck is painted and put together to make sure.

I will get pictures up as soon as I can.

But I am begining to think if even if the air cleaner my be a problem I might go through the trouble of switching the distributor gear and put my other intake on.  Because if by doing that will make linking throttle, air cleaner, carb choice, ect easier to accomplish I might actually go through with that option.  Because to be honest it wouldn't be to hard of a change.  I will have to repaint my other intake the yellow like my motor (right now it is Ford Blue).  That is just a minor set back though.

Any suggestions?

Thank you very much everyone! 

My carb. is the left one in all of the pictures the other one is my dads I'm sure he would even let me have both the carb and cleaner to put on my truck.  My carb would be easier to rebuild the other one is froze up I can't get the throttle to open.  And I was wondering do I need the sediment bulb on my carb like the one on my dads?  Because I don't have one.  Being I am missing so many pieces to this carb. plus other issues is only pushing me now to do the distributor gear swap and put my 2bbl Holley on this 239.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

But I did clean up my other dist. a couple of weeks ago.  And tonight I was going to check what the other end of the oil pump shaft looked like (the end that goes in the pump).  I know the dist. end is slotted obviously.  But I was wondering about the other end to see if I have to buy a new pump if I am going to switch out the dist. gears.  But,  I can't get the shaft out from the top end of the motor, guessing that there is a shoulder somewhere.  I didn't pull the pump off yet.  I thought I would ask if anyone new what the other end of the 239 v8's oil pump shaft was (end in the pump).  I am guessing it is slotted like the top.

So the dist. I want to put in this 239 is from a 272 with a straight hex shaft.

I figure yea it will cost me another $100+ for another pump but I could save the money on rebuilding another carb, new air cleaner, dist cap, rotor, someone to make new carb. linkages, ect... Anyways by doing this I get the carb I want which is already linkaged and has an air cleaner.

Any help is appreciated!!

Thanks

That is what I figured so I will have to order a new pump.

Because the old holes don't line up (239 gear on the 272 dist.).  So I have to drill a new hole through both but I want to make sure I have the gear is in the right spot before I drill the hole.  I also noticed that the hole on the 239 gear was closer to the gear teeth than the one on the 272 dist.  Which when attempting to line up the holes the 239 gear was further up the shaft than what it was on the 239 dist. (I measured that it was 1.043" from the end of the shaft when the holes are lined up.  I used a height gauge and caliper and such and figured that the 239 gear was about 1.0015" from the end of the 239 distributor.  And the 272 gear was about .966 from the end of the shaft.  I was maybe going to double check that dimension but instead from the base of the distributor where it seats on the outside of the engine block.  I just wanted to get someone elses take on this matter.

Is it really crucial on hitting a specific number or will it be okay just being in the ball park?  Because otherwise I think I might go for the 1.00" dimension.

Thank You Very Much!!