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By DANIEL TINDER - 13 Years Ago
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I've never had one fail on me before. What I have read indicates it either works or not (broken spring...then just spins).
But recently, sometimes when I go to start a cold engine, it cranks for awhile, and then just about the time it would normally catch, the motor stops cranking & I hear the starter spinning free. After a couple-three attempts, it starts normally. Once the engine is warm, it always catches instantly, so no worries there. Anyone had this symptom before (with a starter bendix?), and if so, how long do I likely have before it quits working completely and strands me? I have a spare NOS bendix put away, but since I plan to pull the engine this winter anyway (hopefully), I would hate to have to change the starter now if it will keep on working intermittently for some time yet.
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By pegleg - 13 Years Ago
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Dan, "You pays YER money and you take your chances"!
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By paul2748 - 13 Years Ago
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If you redo the engine, put in a mini high torque - I love mine.
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By Ted - 13 Years Ago
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Daniel. Sounds like the ‘fine’ teeth on the bendix internals are worn just enough to allow disengagement. The bendix will eventually need to be changed out if this is the case.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted,
I guess (like I found with the syncro teeth in my orig. trans.), nothing lasts forever. A lot of hard 6 volt starting on this bendix.
Question: Are bendix rebuild parts readily available, or is tooth wear the kiss of death for the core? Do rebuilders mostly just clean, lube, inspect, & install a fresh spring? I just remembered my spare is actually a rebuilt.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 13 Years Ago
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paul2748 (6/26/2012)
If you redo the engine, put in a mini high torque - I love mine.
Paul,
You have a 12 volt system, right?
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By lowrider - 13 Years Ago
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Once it goes for good your dead in the water. Changing it on the side of the road is no fun.
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By paul2748 - 13 Years Ago
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Paul,
You have a 12 volt system, right?[/quote]
Yes - now I see that you have a 6 volt system
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By pasngas - 13 Years Ago
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If you want a good job and great people to deal with for flathead and y block starters contact Vern davidson or his son at www.fordflathead.com he does excellent work and will also buy your starter cores if you have extra and tells you how to ship the best and cheapest way he is out of Clifton,Co. later Laroy
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By gritsngumbo - 13 Years Ago
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From Vern's website: "Folks, unfortunately the time has come to start the shut down shop."
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By DANIEL TINDER - 12 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (6/25/2012)
I've never had one fail on me before. What I have read indicates it either works or not (broken spring...then just spins).
But recently, sometimes when I go to start a cold engine, it cranks for awhile, and then just about the time it would normally catch, the motor stops cranking & I hear the starter spinning free. After a couple-three attempts, it starts normally. Once the engine is warm, it always catches instantly, so no worries there. Anyone had this symptom before (with a starter bendix?), and if so, how long do I likely have before it quits working completely and strands me? I have a spare NOS bendix put away, but since I plan to pull the engine this winter anyway (hopefully), I would hate to have to change the starter now if it will keep on working intermittently for some time yet.
Update: Bendix has been working fine for some time now. Guess it was just dirty/sticky, and seems to have cleaned itself up.
But, had a new strange symptom surface yesterday. Started a hot motor, and when I released the key, the starter was still spinning. The spring in the ignition switch DID return the key to the 'run' position, and when I turned it off (straight up), the engine (and starter) stopped. I'm guessing either the internal contacts of the the ignition switch, or the contacts in the solenoid that energize the starter got temporarily stuck. When I again turned the key to restart the engine, I did not notice the starter begin spinning before key went all the way to 'start', though I didn't think at the time to intentionally pause and make sure. I HAVE a spare solenoid and switch (though I suspect a good rap with a wrench will cure a permanently sticking contact in future, thus not stranding me), and like the bendix, I'm thinking the problem is most probably transient.
Anyone out there have a similar experience, and likely could accurately predict which component is at fault?
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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I have a fairly new switch in my '56 Merc M100 that sticks in the start position if I don't help it return to the run position. They said it would loosen up. Its better now than it was when I installed it but it occasionally sticks.
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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The Original 6 volt starter drives were a heavy duty version as the six volt did not "Pop off" as the 12 volt would in the Winter months and so FORD was wise enough to install a heavier drive on the 6 volt starter and continued this on the 12 volt starter used on the six cylinder motors. Drive prices have come down to about 1/3 of where they were two years ago. I have a new spare and a rebuilt spare if interested I could see where they are price wise and cut it a little plus frieght as I got them before the prices were at the all time high four or five years ago.
312T85Bird
57BlackBird@new.rr.com Computer is acting up so there may be a delay?
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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Daniel: Something to check. I've had the "kick out" problem with my 57 car on occassion. In my case the car was not being driven much & it seems the kickout was caused by low battery voltage. If it's right up, it seldom happens.,
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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If interested I have a Good used 6 volt starter with drive that I do not need and will take $20.00 for it plus FED-X of about another $20.00. The drive alone will be more then that at a store.
Tom
(414) 208-9230 Central time after 8:00 a.m. and before 9:00 P.M.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 12 Years Ago
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Tom,
Thanks for the offer. That certainly is a fair price, but I already have a complete spare (with high-torque windings) that only needs brushes, and also a NOS bendix put aside. Since the currently installed starter is still working mostly OK, don't see the point of getting another. I just need to get around to doing the brushes on the spare so I won't be laid up long if the other quits. Maybe someone else here with a 6V car and no spare starter will take it off your hands?
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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No problem, it is just one of many parts mostly '57 thru '63 that I do not need and would like to pass on to someone who does at fair prices.
Tom
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By Kevin W - 12 Years Ago
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I may not know what I am talking about here but I had a new (6 V 272) starter that the bendix would not disengage. After research and disassembly I found that the starter bendix is desighed to stay in the flywheel until the motor reaches a certain RPM. There is a centrifical release in the starter drive that prevents the starter from disengaging. I found this after bench powering the starter prior to installation. I was not at ease with this setup due to wear issues, but that is how it seems it is supposed to work. A new drive or starter seems to be in order. KW
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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If you have something like LPS just shoot some into the key way of the switch to lube it up a little. I do not reccommend WD-40 because it has a tendancy to become sticky after a while.
Tom
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By DANIEL TINDER - 12 Years Ago
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Kevin W (12/6/2013)
I may not know what I am talking about here but I had a new (6 V 272) starter that the bendix would not disengage. After research and disassembly I found that the starter bendix is desighed to stay in the flywheel until the motor reaches a certain RPM. There is a centrifical release in the starter drive that prevents the starter from disengaging. I found this after bench powering the starter prior to installation. I was not at ease with this setup due to wear issues, but that is how it seems it is supposed to work. A new drive or starter seems to be in order. KW
It hadn't occurred to me, but could the whine I heard that last time after releasing the key have been the sound of the starter motor being overdriven because the bendix failed to release (as apposed to my first assumption, namely that the starter was active, but NOT engaged)? Shutting down the engine likely then allowed the spring to retract the gear, as friction between the teeth/gear may hold engagement to some extent (?). The other/earlier symptom of the bendix retracting early is probably the result of dirt/corrosion hindering whatever centrifugal action is supposed to hold the gear engaged. The first cylinder explosions are likely enough to activate release, but not enough to fully start the engine. A bit puzzling though, as failure to release & early release seem to be contrary actions, but still obviously the result of a sticky mechanism. I wonder if merely pulling the clutch cover and soaking the bendix with electrical parts spray would be effective, should problems resurface?
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