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By MG Cook - 13 Years Ago
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I'm in the middle of converting my 55 fairlane from 6v to 12, all is complete with one major exception, I installed a 12 volt ignitor and no response when I turn the key , I have red to pos and blk to negative and I have what is supposed to be a wire from the ignition switch attached to the positive side of the coil. The 6v ignitor had a wire that had to be ran to the battery, this diagram doesn't show anything like that. Also changed the solenoid switch to 12 volt and just assuming it wires up the same way. Anyone have a trouble shooting guide to go by to identify the problem?
All input would be appreciated.
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By miker - 13 Years Ago
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I'm not sure what you mean by no response, but Greenbird just posted a coil wiring diagram a couple post down. I've worked on too many other cars lately to remember how the ign. sw worked on my car, but often the hot lead to the coil goes dead in the start position, and a bypass (like off the starter solenoid as shown) provides coil power past the resistor. The car spins, but has no spark while cranking. One well tuned car started when I released the key from the start position, which is how I learned this 4o+ years ago.
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By MG Cook - 13 Years Ago
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when I turn the key on, nothing at all, no engine turning or no sounds from the solenoid, I'm checking out the neutral switch to see if that's the problem.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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When you changed the solenoid did you put the light gauge wire from the ignition switch onto the "S" terminal on the solenoid?You also need to run a "bypass" wire from the "I" terminal on the solenoid to the "+" terminal on the coil.This provides a full 12 volts to the coil for starting.After you release the key this circuit cuts out allowing voltage through the ballast resistor.The neutral switch can be bypassed by unplugging the wires from the switch and plugging them together as they are on a manual transmission car-just to test and be sure thats not the problem.
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By MG Cook - 13 Years Ago
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I did run a temporary wire with that set up and the engine did crank so I thought I had the problem solved, I wired it up thinking I had it fixed and when I turned the key, nothing again.
I either don't have a good ground or some bad wires with bad connections.
Thanks for your help.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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What exactly did you do to get the motor cranking.What temporary wire did you hook up and to where?
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By Granny'56 - 13 Years Ago
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Many years ago after rebuilding my '55 Willy's wagon I had a similar problem. Problem was not a good enough ground connection between frame and engine. When I put a heavy braided cable from engine to frame everything worked fine. I'd try hooking a jumper cable from any convenient bolt on the block to any convenient ground on the chassis and give it a try. (a very quick and easy experiment)
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By MG Cook - 13 Years Ago
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turns out the starter relay was bad and it's new from carpenter.
Now the car is turning over but won't fire, replacing rotor cap first. My luck the ignitor is bad.
But I thank you for your input, you're the one guy that we can always count on for help.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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What system are you using for ignition?If the key was left on it may have burned out the module.Pertronix (1) the original will do that.That was one improvement with 2 and 3.They wont burn out if key is left on.Was there a different one specified for 6 or 12 volt?
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