I’ll suggest a complete disassembly and some time spent on making sure every small orifice is clean and unrestricted.  There are two very small holes in the top of the fuel bowl lid on the secondary channels that are prone to being stopped up; be sure that these are also clear.  Insure that the two check balls are in place at the rear of the carb on the secondary fuel channel.  Also check that the secondary jets have not been drilled out to a larger size prior to you getting the carb.  They should not be larger than 0.094”-0.096” in size.  I recently had two of those carbs (List #1094’s) on the dyno mule recently and they were troublesome until the carbs were completely torn down and gone through.  They appear to be working well now with just a thorough cleaning and replacement of the power valve actuator diaphragm.  These two particular carbs are being prepared for a dual quad test that’s being planned for this winter.

Evaporation of fuel from the float bowls over a period of time is a problem for the Teapots in general.  An electric fuel pump seems to be the short term fix as the bowl can be primed or filled just prior to starting after the carb sits for awhile.  On the flip side of this, I noticed that the 1094 Lincoln Teapot sitting on the dyno mule still pumped fuel from the accelerator pump nozzles one week after it had been pulled from the dyno so that one is holding fuel better than most.  That particular carb has a neoprene accelerator pump instead of leather and that may also be a contributing factor in that regard.

      You must not have much ethanol in the fuel in Texas. My accel pumps only last about a year in Indiana, then swell up and stick to the sides of the pump well.

Frank.  Premium fuel in my area has zero ethanol.  It’s an easy check on this end and I do it regularly just to insure I’m using ethanol free fuel on the dyno (and the mower).  I did have an engine on the dyno recently that the customer had supplied Chevron Supreme gasoline and that engine had some ‘run on’ issues after conclusion of the first dyno pull.  A quick check of the fuel showed that it was 20% ethanol and we simply switched over to Conoco 93 (no ethanol) and all was good after that.  Couldn’t check the octane level of the Chevron fuel but I suspect it was 87 or 89 octane fuel that was put into the Supreme tank hopefully by accident.  As far as the 20% ethanol content instead of the normal 10%, there’s a variety of reasons that could have happened.

Before you diassemble yours, call up the Daytona Carb company down in Florida. Top-notch parts and I was very pleased with the kits they have for sale. Also, as just another reference on Mike Suter, he is someone you can trust. He knows his stuff and has supplied me with parts over the years. His take on the power valves is that they are stainless needles, etc, and that you don't need new ones... but you do need to install one that isn't all "boogered up". Personally, I prefer to install a new one because of the tendency of the spring on the inside losing its tension over the years of use. Another thing about those power valves and the teapot. When you reinstall, be careful not to cross thread, and make sure it is fully seated. I've seen more than a few that leaked because it was not completely seated or someone had it cross threaded.

The fellas are right on concerning those small holes. They must be clear. And... don't forget that you need a washer on the top of your bowl under your center stud that holds down the top plate...

Let us know how it turns out...

The washer that’s being mentioned is used to seal up the hole around the carb stud where it goes through the fuel bowl lid.  If big enough, it will simply shield the vent holes without restricting them.  If anything, a larger than necessary washer (O.D.) will actually help the vent holes stay cleaner longer.  The vacuum channel for the power valve actuator diaphragm goes around a brass bushing right there and the bushings are prone to leaking air at that point.  Using a washer at the lid under the air cleaner stud helps to seal up that particular area so the power valve diaphragm can properly function.  If there is a vacuum leak at that particular spot, then the power valve stays depressed (engaged) and fuel economy goes down the tubes.  The fuel mixture right off of idle can also be blubbery or rich.  The washer is a simple fix.