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By Vicky55 - 13 Years Ago
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Just completed a top to bottom rebuild on a 1959 "292', and have a big hesitation on accelerating - have a Autolite 2100 , timeing is set at 10 degrees BTDC - starts great and idles good - Acc.pump is working - advance seems to be working - is this carb just to small, I don't have any idea the jet sizes , Any help would be appreciated - Neil
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By joey - 13 Years Ago
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You say the accelerator pump is OK. Before you start taking the carb apart, try bumping your initial timing up to 15-16 degrees or so, and see where that brings you.
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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Have you id'd the carb? They were used on a lot of engines. If it's not for the 292, it may not even be set up close to right to work well without tuning.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 13 Years Ago
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Greetings to all: Make sure the acc. linkage on the carburetor is ready to start displacing the pump diaphragm the INSTANT the throttle shaft starts to move. The jets should also follow with an instant, healthy squirt. I have found the kits of today are not compatible with the mid 50's to early 60's Ford 2 barrel carbs.. In order to use the "flatter" pump diaphragm supplied in most kits, I have had to change the front end of the 50's - 60's carbs.to that of the 70's carbs.. Also, make sure the throttle shaft is still positively crimped/staked (JB weld works well here) to the throttle lever. Any play here may also cause a slight delay with the pump diaphragm. Hope this helps, JEFF..........
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By lowrider - 13 Years Ago
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Shot in the dark here, but just another thing to check. The older Ford carbs had a check ball in the accelerator pump circuit behind the pump diaphragm in the front of the carb. Occasionally they would get a flat spot in them and cause a hesitation. They eliminated that check ball when they went to the neoprene one in the later carb.
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By joey - 13 Years Ago
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Another idea: making only one change at a time helps isolate the variables involved...of which there are many.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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How long has it been sitting? Maybe the gas is rotten.
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By 55vickey - 13 Years Ago
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Neil, good to see you're still kickin, did you check vaccuum at idle, any little thing affects these older carbs. Gary
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By scott5560 - 13 Years Ago
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I just goin through the same problem. Do you have the proper base gaskets? Possible vacuum leaks. And also the vacuum port to the choke chamber. And the correct location for the vacuum advance hook up. Ie. ported or manifold vacuum. I also put on a Holley 2300 which seems to run better than the autolite.
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By Vicky55 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks for the thoughts -the carb came off either a 272 or 292 -McCraney suggested " ID ing the Carb? What do you mean ? - will try the timeing change first - Forddearborn - mentioned changing the front end ( I assume the excelerator pump housing, can they be purchased separately ? The carb was rebuilt and has a new check ball - gas is new and mid range - Gary idle is about 21 psi at idle - thanks for the idea's - Neil
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By FORD DEARBORN - 13 Years Ago
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Greetings to all: These carbs have been out of production for many years. Any casting parts will have to come from a donor carburetor. It's often possible to pick up a 70's vintage Ford 2 barrel at swap meets should you need the later pump front end and linkage. The point is, there can be no lost motion from the throttle lever to the pump diaphragm. Just a couple degrees will cause a stumble. Watch the pump discharge jets. Do they deliver a good healthy squirt the instant the throttle lever is advanced? Or is there a delay? Hope this will be of some help.
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By Vicky55 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks again for all your help - 90% of hesitation is gone by increasing the timing - went to 16 or 18 degrees before BTDC sounds high will it be O.K. for easy driving ??
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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Maybe the damper ring has slipped, and you are not really running 18 degrees. Drive the car and keep advancing the timing until you experience pinging under load, then retard it until the ping goes away.
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By joey - 13 Years Ago
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Vicky55 (7/16/2012)
Thanks again for all your help - 90% of hesitation is gone by increasing the timing - went to 16 or 18 degrees before BTDC sounds high will it be O.K. for easy driving ??I don't think that is a problem, as long as a) you have no detonation (pinging or knocking) going on, b) it turns over normally upon starting, and c) your idle doesn't get too high. The pinging is a very important consideration. I run with initial timing set at 17 BTDC in my 312, but my heads have not been milled. Also avoid the low octane gasoline. It costs a bit more at the pumps, but it's worth it.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
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Here's the deal with the timing - I'm hoping you have one of the later model units and not a "Load-o-matic"...different problems. The engine has mechanical advance based on two things (1) What is the initial setting (done at idle with no vacuum advance hooked up)? And (2) how much centrifugal advance will the distributor allow as the RPM is raised? The two numbers are ultimately summed as the engine is accelerated. If you change the initial - without limiting the total centrifugal - the total can reach a point where the engine may "knock" or detonate at higher RPMs under load - and that is bad. The mechanical advance limit - for a typical stock engine is proably 36°-38°. So if you want to run 16°-18° initial - it would be best to figure a way to limit the maximum. In my opinion this sort of high initial advance is only advisable if you are running "ported" vacuum to the vacuum canister on the distributor. The "ported" vacuum source only provides a vacuum signal when the enigine is raised above idle. The "port" is uncovered by opening the throttle.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
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If your distributor is a '59 - the base stem will look like this one - an Autolite product. 
Under the point plate it will have a fly-weight arrangement like this - the slots control the total advance...... 
and the springs control how fast it opens up as it rotates. When a distributor is "recurved" - we change the slot length 
and we change the strength of the springs as well. It isn't rocket science and a heads-up mechanic can persist in doing it himself - right in the driveway. You will like the results - even with the two barrel.
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By joey - 13 Years Ago
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When I said 17 degrees initial timing, I should have pointed out that my mechanical advance is limited to 22, for a total advance of 39 degrees.
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By Vicky55 - 13 Years Ago
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My reply for some reason was not posted - I increased the timing to 16 - 18 degrees before TDC and 90% of the hesitation is gone - is 18 degrees to high ? Will leaveing the timing this high cause any problems ? Thank You for your help - Neil
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By idaho211 - 13 Years Ago
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One idea could be to check spark of the wires. Once I had a bad wire that didn't show itself until more spark was needed on acceleration.
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By idaho211 - 13 Years Ago
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Didn't catch the second page sorry. Sounds like timing issue.
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