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By Gary - 13 Years Ago
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I previously posted my heating problems with 65 Mustang w/289 that had been set up 20 years. Tried everything and several of you suggested bad or reversed head gaskets. I pulled the passenger side head and it appears to me the head gasket is the wrong type as you can see the front oblong water passages/openings from the block to the head were blocked by the gasket. This is the front of the block. The rear and all other water openings are not blocked. What is the problem? Thanks much.
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By Gary - 13 Years Ago
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The gasket has been peeled back in the photo.
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By Ol'ford nut - 13 Years Ago
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Hard to see everything by a photo but the gasket appears to be leaking. I'm sure both sides need replaced.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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That gasket is installed correctly, open water holes at the back and blocked holes at the front.
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By Gary - 13 Years Ago
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Heating problem continues on my (early) 289. In addition to changing thermosthat to 160 degree, new Chinese 3 row radiator, new head gaskets, several reverse fluchings, new radiator hoses w/springs inside, fan shroud, 4 blade factory fan, heater on, my car still gets too hot. With hreat detector gun, temp is 218 at thermosthat area and 210 on top of radiator after short driving at 50 MPH ... would probably get hotter if I continued driving. NOTE: I have the EARLY 289 engine. Could it be the head gaskets were different for the early engine?? Timing is TDC, tried 6 BTDC and no help. AN suggestions greatly appreciated.
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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Gary (8/16/2012)
... would probably get hotter if I continued driving.
Let's not guess. Take it for a spin, keep it close to home and see what happens. If it turns out that it's holding steady at 218 then you really don't have a problem. It might be a temperature that you don't feel comfortable with but it's not too hot. The fan on my Firebird doesn't even come on until 240 degrees and that is functioning properly. It's not too hot until it is boiling over.
Did you investeigate all of the suggestions from the previous thread? I really can't think of much else.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic72627-3-1.aspx
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By Pete 55Tbird - 13 Years Ago
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Gary One thing that will cause a car engine to run hot is retarded ignition timing. Advance your timing to 10 degrees BTDC with the vacume advance disconnected and plugged. Also make sure the points do advance when you put vacuum to the hose from the manifold to the distributor. For years I had an Olds Cutlass that had to pass Calif Smog every two years and when I went in to be tested I had to reset the ignition advance to like 6 degrees BTDC from the 12/14 that I normally used. This caused the engine to run very very hot which helped it to pass smog. After the test I would re-set it. I normally had over 50 degrees total advance and that was OK. Try more spark advance. Cheap and easy. Pete
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By LON - 13 Years Ago
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Gary , Did you have the heads shaved before you replaced the head gaskets ? Maybe one of the heads is bent from over heating . Also ,did you check to see how square the block is ???You can have your radiator pressure tested with an added chemical to see if any CO2 is entering your cooling system . Any good radiator shop should be able to help .Hope this helps Lon
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By Gary - 13 Years Ago
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Yes, I had the heads cleaned, some new valves, and head was shaved. I'll try advancing the timing. I'm also wondering if I need a 4 row larger capacity radiator? Thanks so much for your suggestions. Please keep senting them.
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By ejstith - 13 Years Ago
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Looks to me like the gasket was blocking the water hole in the head. Is it on backwards?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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EJ: The gasket is supposed to block the water holes in the front to force the water to flow to the rear cylinders.
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By ejstith - 13 Years Ago
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Sort of makes one wonder why there's a hole there in the first place huh?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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Needed for core support during the casting process. Pegleg is our reigning expert, he can probably expound on this.
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By gekko13 - 13 Years Ago
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Just a guess on my part but those holes in the deck surface and the "freeze plugs" are there to remove the core sand after casting/pouring as well as forming coolant passages.
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By jepito - 13 Years Ago
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Have you replaced water pump? Is the vacuum advance hooked up?
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By pegleg - 13 Years Ago
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You guys are correct. The holes are there both for cooling and to support the water jacket core during the casting process. Same with the "Freeze Plugs." Those holes also are used to allow core gas to escape while the metal is liquid. The binder, that holds the core together is usually a plastic of some form. When you pour 2500 degree iron around it, the binder burns off creating a lot of smoke and gas. You don't want that in the metal, so it needs a path out through the core. Hoosier knows more about casting and cores than he's admitting to.
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By aussiebill - 13 Years Ago
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pegleg (8/27/2012)
You guys are correct. The holes are there both for cooling and to support the water jacket core during the casting process. Same with the "Freeze Plugs." Those holes also are used to allow core gas to escape while the metal is liquid. The binder, that holds the core together is usually a plastic of some form. When you pour 2500 degree iron around it, the binder burns off creating a lot of smoke and gas. You don't want that in the metal, so it needs a path out through the core. Hoosier knows more about casting and cores than he's admitting to. Frank! he,s just testing your memory in case you want to sell your blower stuff cheap.
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