|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
After putting the PCV system in and getting everything buttoned up and all the leaks (air) worked out I drove the truck to work this morning and it was running hot on the gauge. I have access to a thermo imaging camera with heat sensor but what I want to know is were to aim it to get the reading? At the cylinder head, at the block, at the thermostat housing, at the radiator? Also I have a 180 thermostat in the truck and it is pretty stinking hot here in chicago should the temp be at that 180 or is 190/200/220 acceptable?
Thanks in advance
Sebastian
|
|
By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
|
The thermostat temperature can be considered the minimum temperature once it is up to temp. If you're cruising, I'd expect it to remain fairly close to the thermostat rating. If you're in traffic, it's not unreasonable for it to be higher. If it's not boiling over, it shouldn't be a problem.
Aim the sensor at the thermostat housing.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
Yeah, got it thanks. The only reason I worry is that the gauge would be rock steady in the middle before I did the PCV work and when I had the intake off I also changed the thermostat because I had access at the time, now I am worried that I should have left well enough alone. It is now reading 3/4 on the Hot side of the gauge.
Thanks, will check the temp tonight.
Sebastian
|
|
By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
|
Was the old thermostat also 180 and was it functioning correctly?
Check your coolant level. Sometimes an air pocket can prevent the engine from filling completely. After a few drives it may remedy itself but the level may then be low.
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
I usually use my instruments to check temp at the thermostat housing. Any differences between the old thermostat and the new one? Temp rating - poppet size - that sort of thing...? The water temp usually rises to some sort of equilibrium based on the cooling capacity of the system and the outdoor temperature. If the old thermostat flowed more water than the new one - temp could go up. Charlie is right on about the 'boil-over" - if you aren't boiling over, its usually OK. What pressure rating is the cap? 
Most guys choose to run the cap that works best for the circumstances - new, strong clean radiator can handle a higher pressure cap. Old outfit may run OK with a lower cap rating - and still work fine. Raised outfdoor temp, higher loads, greater elevation - that sort of thing - might make you want to have a higher cap rating to increase your margin over the boil-over point.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
I have the 15 lb cap, thanks for that info. I ran her up to temp again and it went to that 3/4 point on the gauge, I took the thermal imaging camera and aimed it at the thermostat housing and got right around 160 but could see that the stat had opened because the tube was the same temp. I grabbed it and it was nice and hot but I also pointed it at the lower hose to the pump it was around 85 degrees and I grab it and it was cool to the touch. Do you think that the water pump is not working? Or is that normal? Thanks for the help, as usual I need it.
Regards
Sebastian
|
|
By pegleg - 13 Years Ago
|
|
The lower hose is supposed to be cool. That's water FROM the radiator. Pump is fine, the 85 is really very cold, you must have just started it, normally I'd expect that to be 140 or 150 in 90 degree weather like we had earlier today.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
I probably could have let it run longer but I just wanted to see what was going on and most of all that the thermostat was opening. It is not boiling over, just dont get why the gauge has changed on me. Is it possible that the PCV valve pulling fumes to the area of the block that the sensor is could have it reading a little higher? Any ideas?
Sebastian
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
It could be that you just distrurbed the wiring....
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
is there a fix for that, would like to have that needle in the middle so I can see the fluctuation a little better.
|
|
By speedpro56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
One more easy mistake to make is installing the thermostat backward and that will give you a higher reading.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
would the thermostat still work if it was in backwards? it is working so I believe that i put it in the right way, really dont want to pull it again to make sure.
|
|
By speedpro56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
It will work BUT not as well. Seems to want to run somewhat hotter if memory serves me right.The point should be toward the radiator while the spring part is inside the intake. You should be able to remove that part of the hose and see if not feel to make sure it's pointed in the right direction.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
Thanks, I have so much going on right now a simple check like that totally escaped me.
Sebastian
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
The thermostat is in the correct direction. I checked the temp after driving on the highway the other night when it was cool, low 70's, with a heat gun. Here are the findings.
Thermostat housing metal- 210-220 degrees
upper radiator hose- 180-190 degrees
Lower radiator hose- 120-130 degrees
Do these numbers look right or is that housing number too high? I am not getting any boil over but the gauge is still on the 3/4 mark when running. If these are normal is there a way to fix the gauge so it is in the middle again?
Thanks for all the help.
Sebastian
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
The 60* drop through the radiator looks right - 220* at the t'stat housing with 70* ambient seems a bit high. My outfit usually runs right at 105* over ambient - at the t-stat housing. What sort of highway (cruise) spark advance is in your set-up? If the spark is a bit retarded - temp rises right up. On the same evening - at the same ambient, maybe experiment with incrementally higher initial advance settings. Putting an orfice in the bypass hose (directly under the t'stat) will drop temps a bit more. Use a brass 3/8 pipe plug with a drilled 3/16 hole - insert into the short hose - the plug can't escape that position and is easy to remove if you don't like the result. That hose is the size of a small garden hose - and it is running the hot water right past your radiator in a short circuit.
|
|
By cbass139 - 13 Years Ago
|
I will definitely try the plug in the bypass. I was also thinking of running vinegar in it for a hour or so to break up and clean out the radiator. then run clean water through it for a day or two and then go to a good mix with purified water. What do you think? Cant hurt right?
Sebastian
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
I'm a believer in the vinegar wash.....for good or for evil......experienced restoration guys recommended it and all sorts of gunk came out. To mix the new anti-freeze and water - I recommend using distilled water from the grocery. It has to be treated with one drop of ammonia per gallon to make sure it is a "base" solution. Untreated - it combines with carbon dioxide from the air and becomes slightly acidic - which you don't want. The drop of ammonia "kills" the acid - it is commonly used for laboratory purposes.
|