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By Jim Rowe - 18 Years Ago
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Guys,
Will the FMX bolt to my Ford-o-matic bell housing and use the torque converter?
Are the splines the same as my water cooled Ford-O-Matic? I can get a rebuilt FMX for $500.
Didn't want to spend to much to add an AOD.
Is it worth doing?
Jim
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Jim: The trans will bolt up if you locate and drill the top two mounting holes in the transmission case. You can use the bellhousing to locate the holes. To use the original converter, you will have to put the FOM front pump on the FMX. If your original trans has a 29 spline input shaft, you are all set. If your original is 17 spline, you will either have to install the 17 spline shaft in the FMX (a complete teardown of both transmissions) or find a converter with the 29 spline turbine hub. You can also use the FOM tailshaft and housing on the FMX and use the original driveshaft, mount, and speedo cable. If you do this, watch the gasket match in the lower corner, the FMX gasket will not seal the FOM housing. Either use the FOM gasket, or add a little piece of gasket material and some rtv sealer as required. John
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By Jim Rowe - 18 Years Ago
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Thanks John,
Would the same factors hold true for a cruize-o-matic?
Jim
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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Some early Cruise O Matic's came behind Y-Blocks. If you find one of those they are ok. They look like a Ford O but have a Vacume modulator on them. Shifts are more vacume controlled. Chuck in NH
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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By the way Jim, check the article in the Tech area at:
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/fmx_upgrade.html
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Jim: Most cruisomatics bolt in. Only the input spline could be an issue. Your water cooled FOM probably has the 29 spline shaft. As Moonshadow said, you'll need a vacuum line to the modulator, as will the FMX. Can you get a rebuilt Cruiso? If so, they should be able to rebuild your FOM and you wouldn't have to change anything. John
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By Gerry - 18 Years Ago
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Where would be the best place to get the proper vac, The carb or the back of the manifold? Thanks Gerry
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Gerry: You need manifold vacuum, either directly off the manifold or a carb fitting that is below the throttle plates. John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Is there a way to adjust the shift point of the FMX trans at full throttle? Flooring it from a start it has good accel, but then I feel like the engine is rev'd out of the power band before each up shift. The car pulls in first but then seems to lag when the RPMs get up, then once it shifts to 2nd the car jerks forward with a fresh boost, but then seems to fade again before it shifts into 3rd. Any thoughts? - John
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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John: At what RPM does the engine start to "lay down"? John
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By Gerry - 18 Years Ago
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John thanks for the reply. I would guess one place is no better than the other to get vacuum? Gerry
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Sorry Gerry, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread. When I did my FMX hybrid I took the vacuum off the back of the manifold. I've got 2 splitters, so 1 line goes to the power breaks and the other does the trans and a vacuum gauge in the car. Works Great!
John, I will check the RPM of the lag tomorrow. Thanks as always.
- John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Ok I did some testing on the way to work today: If I'm standing on the gas and don't let off, the car will run up to about 5200 before it shifts. It seems to start to lag at about 4500 and I'm just waiting for the next gear. I think it runs 1st up to about 40mph and then 2nd to 65mph Sometimes it would move along nicely through the gears when at about 4000-4500. But I'm sure I was feathering off the gas. Any thoughts? - John Edit: I also noticed that when the RPMs get up that high, I start to get that rattle again. I don't think it's timing because I can drop it 6 degrees at the speed by adjusting my MSD control and it's still there.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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John: I don't remember the particulars on your engine. It sounds like it has a stock cam, and the power is dropping off above 4500 because that's about all the cam has. The 5200 rpm rattle could be valve float if you have stock springs. It actually sounds like the FMX is doing its job correctly. John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Yes sir... Engine to my knowledge has pretty much stock internals. So the FMX is working well, it is the engine that needs some help. Do I need to be concerned about the valve float? Will I do any damage driving the car? I probably just can't lay into it too much. I just got engaged so now things like a house and living expenses take priority, ugh  - John
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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John: Avoid valve float. It can damage the cam, lifters, bend pushrods, break valve springs, break valves. Would hate to see you miss a house payment to fix your car and maybe end up with your wife and kids living under a bridge. John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Ok, so I drove the car around a lot this evening to get some more information on this rattle... It only seems to happen in 2nd and 3rd gear when the motor is running warm. I could rev the motor up in 1st gear, no problem. But when the temp gauge is at the end of the horizontal line and the motor is under load in 2nd or 3rd gear I can hear it. Any thoughts??? Yeah, I think the ford would be parked in the driveway dead before I had to miss a mortgage payment. HA! Thanks guys!
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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John: Valve float would only happen at top rpm in any gear. That's not your rattle. It's either too much timing or too poor a quality gasoline. Oh, another possibility. Excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chambers over the years, raising the compression ratio. Does 93 octane take the noise away? John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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I always use 92/93 depending on what the station has. I tried to use regular when I first got the car but it would diesel when I turned it off. After some more driving and reading, I'm sure it is detonation. I don't think it is timing though. Definately heat and probably compression due to carbon build up. I didn't think that carbon would increase the ratio that much to make a difference. The weather was probably 70 yesterday and the car was running hot. Like I said, a lot of the time the car runs great, so I don't want to mess with the timing too much. It is just that as soon as the engine temp gets up there, I get the rattle. What's the best next step? Pull the heads and check out the inside of the cylinders? Use a octane additive boost? Thanks!
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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John: Do you know what the timing actually is at cruising speed. If it is too much or too little, it can cause overheating, which makes the problem even worse, as you found out. Are you using both mechanical and vacuum advance? Try unhooking the vacuum advance, set the timing to about 34 degrees at about 3000 rpm, and see if the the knock goes away. Also, a lean mixture will also cause those symptoms. Does it run without pinging until it warms up enough for the choke to come off, then start pinging? Maybe it's not engine temp but lean mixture causing the problem. John
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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Anyone know of a shop in northern IL or southern WI that knows enough about Y blocks to have them look at my car. Apparently I'm just stupid and can't get this stuff to work properly. I'm too frustrated to continue screwing around. Also, on a side note, pictures from Columbus look awesome - I wish I'd been there. - John
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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Hey Punk, Try a PM to Wally Kerstein. He lives in north eastern Ill. Somewhere around Great Lakes Navy Base.
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By NewPunkRKR - 18 Years Ago
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The base is about 20 mins from my place - so he's real close by. Anyone have handle information for him. I tried to search his name but came up with nothing. Thanks as always! - John
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