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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Hi all. New to the forum. I've recently acquired a 55 T-bird. All stock except 12 volt conversion. I have very little to no experience with y-blocks. Have to pump the living day lights out on the throttle to get car to start when cold, but starts and runs OK. I know I need to do a tune up but that's got to wait until I get the hot cranking problem solved. After the engine runs for about 10 minutes or so it won't crank after shutting it down. Even if I only wait a minute it's the same thing. Once it's sat for 20 minutes or so it will crank and starts pretty easily. Checked the battery and getting a full charge. I've noticed the temp gauge barely comes up from the cold position. Upper radiator hose doesn't get hot to the touch which is making me think the thermostat is sticking. Maybe the engine's getting so hot it won't start? I don't want to just start throwing thing at the problem. Thoughts on my diagnosis? Other things to look at? I'm not a great mechanic but really good at following directions. Thanks in advance for the help. I'm also posting this over in the street section.
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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Check your grounds wires/cables and the heavy wiring to the starter.
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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks. Will check them all out.
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By PF Arcand - 13 Years Ago
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On the cold start problem, it sounds like your Choke plate is not closing. When cold, step on the throttle once & then check to see if it's closing or not.
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By Granny'56 - 13 Years Ago
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You say "After the engine runs for about 10 minutes or so it won't crank after shutting it down" Does that mean the starter won't turn the engine over at all? Or does the starter solenoid chatter like the battery is low, or does the starter motor turn the engine over, but won't start?
1) If the starter doesn't turn the engine over at all you need to know if the starter solenoid is completing the circuit and supplying power to the starter when you turn the key. If not; troubleshoot from switch to solenoid, or could be the solenoid itself. If the solenoid comes in (Pronounced click sound) but there is no voltage at the starter the solenoid is likely bad. To test solenoid put a volt meter (Or a light bulb) across the two big terminals (From battery, and to starter motor) and attempt to crank engine. If you read voltage across the solenoid (Or the light comes on) solenoid is bad. Next put volt meter (or test light) to the input wire on starter and ground. Try to start engine. If light lights up (or volt meter reads voltage) solenoid is supplying power to starter. Starter itself may be bad. (I have seen problems where starter windings open up when they're hot).
If the engine is so hot it won't turn over at all you'd know it. It would be hot, and you'd have an oil smell. If that is the case, when you attempt to start it you will hear the solenoid click, the starter motor will grunt, any lights on the car that are lit will dim. Usually the solenoid will chatter because the starter motor draws so much power the voltage drops so low the solenoid coil can't hold the contacts together. Once they part, the power drain is relieved, the voltage rises and the coil picks up the solenoid again dropping the voltage again. This produces a loud "Buzz" or clicking, chattering sound.
2) If starter motor turns engine over, but it won't catch it is a whole different kettle of fish. Could be anything from automatic choke on carb, bad wires opening when they get warm, even a flakey coil.
Hope this helps.
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By cos - 13 Years Ago
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Put the 6 volt starter back in. Had a 60 over 292 with Jahns 5/8 inch defector pistons that was slow to crank with a 12 volt starter. Used a 6 volt starter that lasted a long time.
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By Riz - 13 Years Ago
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You might start your tune up with a new ballast resistor and coil. I had some very intermittent gremlins with starting. Was never sure which was the cause but after replacing them it went away.
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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks to all for the suggestions. To clarify, the engine won't turn over when hot. Starter makes a weak attempt and then nothing. Have noticed a bit of a click and some buzzing if I keep the key in the 'Start' position. I wear hearing aids so not very good at making sound judgements. (I know that was a lousy pun). I'll be working on the car starting Monday evening. We live about 20 minutes from the Bristol Motor Speedway and have house guests for the weekend and I suspect I'll be stuck entertaining them instead of working on the bird.
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By rick55 - 13 Years Ago
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It sounds like your starter motor s worn out. When the bearings wear out the armature is able to hit the field windings (poling) and will struggle to crank the engine. Worn brushes don't help either. It looks like you have the wonderful experience of changing a starter motor on your horizon.
Good luck!!
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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks to all for the ideas. Injured my back so haven't been able to look too far into solving the roblem. I does, however look like replacing the starter is in my near future. Any unusual issues with these I should be aware of? Have replaced several small block chevy (don't hate me for that) but never a Y-block. From what I've been able to gather, it looks like the toughest issue may be moving the starter drive from the old starter to the new?
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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Starters and drives are fairly easy to replace on the bird. Just three bolts.
Have to ask though, has your 55 has been converted to 12 v? If so I recommend you retain the 6 volt starter. It is heavily wound, can be repaired and will spin that yblock quick and safe.
Lots of guys think they have to switch to a 12 starter when converting. Nope. Just have it rebuilt.
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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Update. Pulled the starter on Sunday. Pulled battery cable, then removed the three mounting bolts, wouldn't move. Like a dummy, I hadn't moved the dip stick mount to the side. Moved it. Thanks heavens I didn't have my head directly under the starter. Reached to pull it free and the d*^n thing literally fell out and hit the floor. That seemed way too easy. I have the feeling installing the new one won't go as easily. Anyone have any experience with the high torque starter Hill's Thunderbird Center sells? Thanks!
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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I have a high torque starter in my bird BUT I have to because it has an AOD trans. For my money and in your case I would have a rebuilt 6 volt starter put in there. The high torq will be upwards of 150 200 bucks? and I frankly don't think they do a "better" job of starting the engine. They are better for some models of ford because of weight or size to install and help with clearance.
As said before check cables connections and bushings and brushes and you should be good to go.
See if you can locate an Auto electric shop in your area to rebuild what you have first. just my 2 cents.
New drives are available and have to be installed properly but still, easy to follow directions.
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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BTW, that's a great looking bird in your avatar, any chance we could see more pics of it?
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By Black 55 - 13 Years Ago
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Update. Back went out again so slow in getting to work on the T-bird. Installed the new starter, went with the high torque. Relatively easy installation once I figured out how to get to the to bolt. Works great. Ran car up to full operating temperature several times, shut it off, and it restarted immediately with no cranking issues. Very happy with how it works. Alan, Thanks for the suggestions and the kind words. Here are a few pictures. The bird actually came to me from Tulsa, OK which I believe is where you're located. Traded my fiberglass 32 Ford street rod for it. I'm very happy with the car.    
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