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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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kinda like a couple of spark plug wires are unhooked... kinda like dirt in the gas... kinda like the timing is suddenly off... running fine, then it suddenly started running real rough. checked carb, seems to work ok. pulled plugs, don't see a problem there. dizzy tight, not suddenly loose and out of place... what gives? plan to put a timing light on it to see if maybe the timing has gone off...?? any ideas, suggestions, gremlins I should chase...?! thanks,,Mark
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By jonnireb - 13 Years Ago
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If it will idle, remove one plug wire at a time and note if any plug wire removing makes no difference. This will isolate which cylinder(s) is at fault. I would then remove rocker cover(s) anc check if any pushrods are out of the rocker cup.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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While the covers are off, look for any broken valve springs.
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By Ted - 13 Years Ago
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A lost pushrod comes to mind. As easy as the valve covers are to remove, doing that would verify that pushrods are all in place and per John’s advice, also look at the valve springs to insure that none are broken. A stopped up main jet is also a consideration. When all else fails, put a vacuum gauge to the engine as that may also help to isolate the problem.
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By Ghsthrss - 13 Years Ago
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Ok, and don't ask me how I "found" this problem in my own Y-Life. But is it through out the load range, is it low end power or is it top end power? For the longest time my 62 was my daily driver, then i got a new truck and it got parked. Then it became my daily again because it just doesn't break, unlike me "new" truck. So it had sat for a while and I started driving it again, to my dismay at high rpm the engine just started crapping out, many weekends spent looking at this that and the other and i couldn't figure out what it was. So i talked with a friend at the machine shop who told me that it was "probably" just the cam going flat, after all its a 50 year old motor, makes sense right? So I gave up, and here's the part where I tell EVERYONE how stupid I am. I'm driving down the road and look at the dashboard.... what to my surprise do I see? The choke is pulled out about 3/4 of an inch, it made all the difference in the world, trucks running like a champ again. If that doesn't help you, at least I hope you found it amusing.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Believe I have found my problem... on the pass side of the engine, second cylinder from front, the forward rocker arm, valve/spring and pushrod all are just sitting there... no up and down like they should be doing... I'm guessing this is where my problem is and why it runs... but just barely... with a chug, chug, chug... now, what do I have on my hands?? guessing I'll have to pull that head off to begin with to find the problem.... does this ring any bells with anyone else?? comments, suggestions, cards of condolences...?? thanks,Mark
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By Barry L - 13 Years Ago
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Sounds like the cam lobe is a goner. Did the engine seem noisier before this happened? A bit unusual for no movement and no prior noise. Barry
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By lovefordgalaxie - 13 Years Ago
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Maybe it's a bent pushrod?? Try to turn it by had, and see if it turns without wobling to the sides. Once I saw the pushrod to get off of the lifter and get stuck just by the side of the lifter housing in the valley. That was caused by a worn adjusting screw on the rocker, that allowed way too much lash. I just replaced the pushroda on the lifter, and installed another screw in the rocker, one that would actually keep the adjustment, and that was about it.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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can't remember what I can see if I remove the intake manifold and the valley cover... can I then see the condition of my pushrods and lifters, in case that's where my problem is? trying to do as little "heavy lifting" as needed to locate my problem. thanks,Mark
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By HT32BSX115 - 13 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (10/18/2012)
can't remember what I can see if I remove the intake manifold and the valley cover...
Mark,
After you remove the intake and valley cover, turn the engine by hand.
Look directly at the pushrod and "tappet" for that valve....... If neither are moving when they should, the lobe is flat.
If the pushrod is bent (or it fell off  ) , it should be fairly obvious.
post a picture!
Regards,
Rick
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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again, memory fails me... before removing the intake, should I drain all the water out of the radiator and block? thanks,Mark
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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You don't need to drain it all, probably no more than a gallon.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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thanks Charlie... I guess I'll just lose some water taking the upper radiator hose off the intake, right?
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By bergmanj - 13 Years Ago
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Just drain the radiator "dry": That'll get the coolant low enough to not loose any. I've done this many times; and it just plain seem the easiest and cleanest of all the ways to do it. Good luck!
Regards, JLB
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By Pete 55Tbird - 13 Years Ago
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Mark If I understand you correctly then a pushrod on one cylinder is not transferring the up and down motion of the camshaft to the valve. If this is indeed the case remember "KISS" or keep it simple, stupid. FIRST check the pushrod. Is it bent? If yes replace it. Check that the pushrod is still in the lifter cup. Camshafts do not suddenly go flat they slowly wear down but still push on the valve. If there is NO MOVEMENT of the pushrod it has come out of place in the lifter. These checks can be made by taking off the valve cover. You do not need to remove the intake manifold. Pete
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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believe me, I believe in the kiss method...! can I get the push rod out by loosening only its rocker, or will I need to remove the entire rocker assembly?
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By slumlord444 - 13 Years Ago
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Just loosen the one rocker arm.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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found the problem... push rod has gotten slightly bent somehow and came off the lifter. anyone spare a good one or direct me to a seller? thanks,Mark
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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OK, so my local NAPA lists the part, so I will see if they will really sell me one tomorrow. no other signs of a problem besides the slightly bent rod; before removing it, looking in the hole, it was obvious it had come off the lifter... any ideas why this would happen? could I have a problem with the lifter as well... so that putting a new rod in place will only result in the same thing happening again...? can I do anything else before installing the new rod to determine if I have a problem somewhere else? thanks again, Mark
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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Its more likely that you have a sticking valve. Lube the guide area and whack it a few times with a rubber hammer to make sure it goes up and down. Happens a lot on engines that havn't been run for a while. Chuck
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By Ted - 13 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (10/25/2012)
.......any ideas why this would happen?You didn’t mention which pushrod which can point to a more specific cause. When you adjust the valve, take note if the adjuster is sitting lower than the rest. If it is, there’s a chance the cam lobe and/or lifter is going away and the excess in lash is why the pushrod decided to jump out of place. Other things that can contribute to the aforementioned pushrod problem includes varnished valves (old fuel), pushrod rubbing within the hole in the head, lack of oil at the rockers, or over-reving the engine. If the bolts are too long at the very front of the intake or too long in the unused threaded holes directly behind the intake, then those 'too long' bolts can simply lever the pushrod out of place.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Well, the NAPA part SEP RP3022 (same item as part # 215-4048 suggested above) was a bit longer or shorter (I can't remember) than mine, plus it was bigger around and the shape "cup" at the top was also slightly different... so, guess I'll try Concours or Dennis Carpenter... any other sources out there that anyone can suggest? Mark
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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Speaking of push rods. I've been wondering for a while if the difference is longer push rods for the heads with the oil diverters under the rocker stands. Is the thickness of the diverter about the same as the difference in pushrod lengths? Chuck
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By Ted - 13 Years Ago
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Mark. What is the effective length pushrod you are needing? I’ve bins full of stock used pushrods here in the various Y lengths. Chuck. While the oil baffles are a consideration for the rocker arm geometry, it’s not a model year qualifier for the pushrod length. Seems the later model pushrods were the same lengths as the early models which rules out the oil baffles being what determined the pushrod length.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Ted, thanks for the offer... using a plain ole ruler, my rod is 8 1/4 inches long... or 21 cm... bear in mind it has a very slight bend, so that might make it a hair or two longer. does that sound standard? Mark
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By Ted - 13 Years Ago
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Mark. I do have some stock pushrods here that measure 8¼“ overall length. These particular pushrods are 8.100” effective length and are the ¼” diameter units. While overall length can vary due to cup depth, effective length is a constant. Different manufacturers will have different cup depths which is why this is important. Effective length is measured by placing a ball of a known diameter in the cup end of the pushrod, measuring the overall length with the ball in place, and then subtracting the ball diameter. Just let me know exactly which pushrod and I’ll get a couple in the mail once you email me your shipping address. My contact info is at www.eatonbalancing.com .
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Ted, again thanks for the offer of assistance; not sure how to get my hands on a ball to place in the cup so I can do the calculation you describe... any suggestions on that item?
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Ted, I just sent you an email msg to your work email. thanks, Mark
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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hot-cha-cha-cha! thanks to the generousness of a fellow-forum member in Texas, four push rods arrived this afternoon. Just installed a replacement one, using the "oil and then whack the valve to make sure its not stuck..." step as mentioned earlier; then pulled the coil wire off and bumped the engine to make sure the rod/rocker actually moved as it should, and SUCCESS! Of course, the battery was too low to actually start it, so back on went the charger... we'll see in a few if the "chug, chug, chug" is gone! thanks to all who jumped in with suggestions! Mark
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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Started right up! But I've noticed that a few of the push rods do not rotate, and a few do not seem to be getting oiled... This can't be good, right?
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By junkyardjeff - 13 Years Ago
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Probably time to soak the rocker arms in some solvent as the shafts might be gummed up.
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By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
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oil change and spinning the push rod by hand a few turns and all seems to be okay; oiling working, but I have 2-3 push rods that just don't spin... no problem there, I hope... Mark
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