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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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Hi,
Got myself a Y Block distributor for my 312 Mercury but cant seem to find what it came from Part No #CFDS 12127-A2 Made in Canada (also has 12K marking on casing)? It has straight shaft Vacuum advance. Will this take standard 57 onwards cap & points?
Regards, Brian
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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You sure it's CF? A C.... engineering number will be 60s so the 57 up cap and rotor should work. If it is a remanufactured unit, then the number will not necessarily mean anything anymore; just about any ford v8 distributor body will work with the right internal parts.
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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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Just went out to the Garage and double checked it again and it definitely has CFDS-12127-A2? It does appear to be a remanufactured looks original to me
Regards
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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I have an Fords Industrial Parts Catalog for 1956-1959.There is a listing for FDS-12127-A.I think the one you have is non passenger car although it should work.Application 1956 272.As far as the cap I think its the old style.Measure across the diameter of the distributor.The 56 style is smaller diameter.
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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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I mean't to type "DOESN'T appear to be remanufactured"
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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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Appears to be 3.5" Dia from the outside of the casing?
Regards,
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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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Now that its a 56 272 distributor? Should I move it on and look for a post 57 onwards distributor rather than use the 56 one? All the previous posts I searched suggest 57 onwards preferably 64 F100 if I can find one? Anybody got one out there there will to sell and send to Melb Australia?
The car is running fine currently with the Mallory Magspark ( dual point mech advance) distributor so I am in no hurry but wanted to go back to something that has vacuum advance and parts that are easily accessible rather than try source parts for the Old school Mallory when i do come round to needing them.
Just wanted to also say as a Newbie this site is AWESOME learn't heaps!!!
Rgds,
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By PF Arcand - 13 Years Ago
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The next question is what carb you are going to use? If it's a 56 or earlier that changes the situation.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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The 3.5 inch diameter is a 55-56 style.I just measured the one I took off mine and replaced with the later 57+ type.If you look at yours you can see the advance springs ABOVE the breaker plate?Thats the tip-off that you have the loadomatic vacuum only unit.The one you want is the later style with vacuum and centrifugal advance.Much more sesitive to engine load(vacuum) and RPM(centrifugal) advance features.The rebuilts are sold under the Carcone # 30-2808..One of the other members "Talkwrench" is from your part of the world and he got one of these distributors shiped from somewhere.Maybe he will ad to this post.You can use the later distributor with the original or earlier carb.You CANT use the original distributor with a later carb.Also you will need a cap and rotor to go with that distributor if you change it.57-74 Ford 8 cylinder is the application.
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By paul2748 - 13 Years Ago
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Check ebay for a 57 or later distributor.
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By grandpas4dr56 - 13 Years Ago
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I have 3 dist. I will check tomarrow and see what I have i do know one is a reproduction and it has been converted to the mid 80s electronic ignition. I think one has the springs above and one has the springs under. Thoes 2 will need to be rebuilt.
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By rick55 - 13 Years Ago
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Avoid the 57 distributor which has a ball bearing base and straight vacuum advance arm. The later models from 58 on are the one you want. In Aust. the straight arm vacuum advance canisters are almost impossible to find, though they are available in the States. Give aussiebill (Cusso Bill) a pm on this site, he is the most helpful guy in Australia for all things YBlock. If you have a friend in the US he will be able to pick one of the later models up for you from Cardone I believe.
Regards
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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Any of the Parts Stores in the states can get them.Check the prices.Seems to be a fair difference depending on where you buy.As far as I know they all come from the same rebuilder-Cardone.I posted the part # you need.The one I bought here in the Colonies(Canada) was from Cardone.That # is applicable anywhere.
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By Merqry56 - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks Guys for all the advice really glad I found this forum! I know what to look for and avoid now. I will keep on the hunt for a 57-64 distributor. There a couple on Ebay both both appear to be early model stuff If I am correct despite one of them suggesting its out of 64 F100 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330820704553?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1413 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281008041809?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1413
Rick, I will PM Cusso Bill too, dealt with him when I was looking for (dare I say it on this forum) a Cleveland/C4 adapter kit to go into my other 56 Mercury which I am building, he was very helpful!
Rgds,
Brian
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By rick55 - 13 Years Ago
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I picked up a NOS distributor a few years back on eBay for $15 and also got another from a member here, for the cost of postage. You can easily identify the better distributor by looking at the vacuum canister arm.
Regards
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By Talkwrench - 13 Years Ago
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If you hunt around on the net with the correct Cardone number 30-2808 I believe, you can find them very cheap The last one I bought cost me about $70 with no core delivered to my mate in Cali. Picked up the Pertronix Ignitor 3 [multispark] setup with matching coil for about $160 delivered, couple of MrGasket 925D springs and your away ! Also Steve has another setup he may add to this.
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By bergmanj - 13 Years Ago
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Rick55, Can you clarify as to the perceived issues with the '57 (ball-bearing breaker plate) distributor; I've been running one of those "forever", without any issues. I'd really like to know what to watch-out for. Thanks, JLB
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By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
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This is a visual ID of the older Autolite distributor body - with concentric rings around the base stem...this is a '59 
The later service versions have a three sided base like this one below......this is a Motorcraft part. They used the body of common Ford distributors of the sixties and early seventies... 
The troubles with the '57 ball bearing point plates are mostly due to neglect, dirt and wear issues (the parts are 50+ year old) - and we've all had to deal with items like that as we work through repairs and restorations. I saw a NOS distributor at one point in the past - with the ball bearing plate - and it plainly had no inherent problems, would work fine as-is. I've also seen them frozen with rust.....
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By rick55 - 13 Years Ago
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Bergmanj, a 57 ball bearing plate distributor in good working order is a great distributor and the design keeps the points well and truly aligned with the distributor shaft. They are a very robust unit. The problem with them in use is twofold. Here in Oz you cannot readily buy the straight arm vacuum canister these use from any parts supplier in my local area, Perth West Australia. The situation is the same Australia wide, though aussiebill may have some in stock as he will order stock in from the States -the mainstream parts suppliers will not as there is not enough call for the part. I used a 57 distributor for several years as a mechanical advance - no vacuum - as the vacuum diaphragm failed, with no problems. I got stung a couple of times with Pertonix units failing (cost $150 each) and swore off them as a viable ignition system. The electronic modules I have had great luck with are the Mallory/Accell points eliminator kits and they cost less than half the price of the Pertronix systems. These will not fit the 57 distributor as their mounting plate fouls the straight arm from the vacuum canister. Pertronix may have fixed the problem with the later systems but by the time they did that a lot of people would have had my experience of failure.
I hope this explains my reluctance to use these distributors.
Regards
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By PF Arcand - 13 Years Ago
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Just to weigh in on this distributor discussion. The post 57 non ball bearing distributors are not without their problems also. I've had two that will not hold spark dwell properly. One was a supposed rebuilt & the other was rehabed by a friend with a distributor machine. The first would not meet factory spec for spark dwell, which is 26 to 28.5 degrees at all. The 2nd one will hold dwell at around 26 degrees at idle, but as soon as the RPM increases it drops back about 5 degrees. From what I could find out on this site, it appears to be a design problem with the advance plate... Comments?
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