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By crank8160 - 13 Years Ago
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K guys finally got my 57 f100 w/272 running found stripped and missing bolt
When its sitting doesnt leak but running with it drips bad im wondering should i drill and tap to larger bolt or maybe helicoil or ????? Whats best affordable and simple?
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By charliemccraney - 13 Years Ago
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Helicoil. The holes are blind (not drilled through to the crankcase) so to drill and tap for a helicoil should be pretty easy as long as you can get a drill in there.
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By jonnireb - 13 Years Ago
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If I recall, the pan screws are 1/4 NC, or 5/16NC, If they are 1/4 and stripped, the hole is now tap size for 5/16NC. If they are 5/16 and stripped they are now tap size for 3/8NC. Of course you can always use Heli-Coils. If you go to the next size larger, you might want to use a socket head screw, if space on the pan is a consideration, as the socket head is a bit smaller than a hex head, in diameter.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 13 Years Ago
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I'm guessing that the missing bolt is in the aluminum rear seas retainer, one of the two rear most bolts. Tap to 3/8-16, and put some sealer on the threads. The bolts into the block and timing cover would not be very likely to leak, since as stated, they are blind holes. The ones in the retainer are open to the crankcase. Use only about a 1/2" long bolt, a longer one will bottom against the rear main cap, and you may strip your new threads trying to get it tight.
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By crank8160 - 13 Years Ago
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Bolt is very rear near the center by trans how do i tell if oil is leaking from hole or passing by the gasket or does it even matter?
Also when i tap and put new bolt which sealant should i use
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By Moz - 13 Years Ago
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the 2 centre ones at the back of the pan screw into the rear main seal retainer, as john said they are both open holes into the crankcase, if one is missing it will leak out of the bolt hole, i use permatex gasket cement to seal the bolts, it does'nt dry hard so getting the bolts out again is no problem & ive never had a leak out of them.
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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Sometimes you can rethread a coarse threaded hole to fine in the same size. Or replace try a slightly larger metric. Chuck
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By jhildebr - 12 Years Ago
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You might try a LEFT hand drill bit (1/8-5/16) avaliable from many hardware stores. Use a reversable drill in the counter-clockwise direction. If the drill catches on the remainning bolt piece it will often simply un-screw the piece. Then you can put a new bolt in with sealer. If not, then you might try an easy-out in the hole and remove the bolt piece. John Hildebrand
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By crank8160 - 12 Years Ago
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Finally got a chance to adress stripped bolt hole and found other rear seal bolt measures 5/8 from washer to end it looks newer but it fits tight is it hitting internal parts or long enough to grab a few more threads? The other bolts measure 1/2" from washer to end and they dont bite just spin . What do you think , is 5/8 to long or can it get another to fix " stripped bolt hole" i had to begin?
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By crank8160 - 12 Years Ago
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K now im grasping at straws but what about a 3/8 self taping bolt? I only ask because to get a tap in that hole is a lot of work to be wedged between oil pan and fly wheel any other ideas r welcome
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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I'd drop the pan for that one and use a regular tap. You don't have a lot of room for error and I wouldn't trust a self tapping bolt. Install a stud if you can, that's what it should be and it will prevent it from being stripped again.
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By glrbird - 12 Years Ago
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crank read John - "The Hoosier Hurricane" answer. That is your answer.
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By crank8160 - 12 Years Ago
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Thanx guys hope to do that this weekend i'll let you know how it goes
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By crank8160 - 12 Years Ago
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K guys thanks again I dropped the pan taped the stripped holes to 3/8 16 nc and put back together . Evrrything went smooth with no leaks on to the next project , the distributor.
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