Cam choice


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By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Need a little input from all you cam guru's. New engine build and I have 3 cams to choose from. Build so far, 272 bored to 292, 5cc domed pistons, G heads w/ported exhaust ports, Block & heads resurfaced just to make everything straight, Rollmaster timing chain set, 'B' intake w/600 cfm carb (may go to 3x2 later), 57 exhaust manifolds or Reds headers, T5 trans & 3.50 rear in a 57 Custom 300. I was told the compression could be close to 9.7/1. Not really looking to race it, just looking for that "saturday nite cruise" lope when you pull in somewhere. But I'm sure I'll blow the cobwebs out occasionally. Here are my choices:

Isky RPM 300 Adv Duration = 270, Duration @ 050 = 228, Lift = .448, Lobe sep = 112

Mummert Y270s Adv Duration = 272, Duration @ 050 = 224, Lift = .440, Lobe sep = 108

CompCam Adv Duration = 264in 268ex, Duration @ 050 = 234in 238ex., Lift = .528in .536ex, Lobe sep = 110

Whatever cam I run I would like to run it 2° advanced to keep the power curve on the lower rpm side. I already know that the CompCam will have to be run straight up because of piston/valve clearance. Opinions,

Thanks,   Dan

By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
I'm coming up with compression closer to 9.07:1 and since the block is only cleaned up, it's probably much lower. Consider zeroing the deck while you have it apart.

I wouldn't consider myself a cam guru but I think either the Isky or Mummert will do the job. I also think they'll be fine straight up. Since only the exhaust has been ported, I probably wouldn't use the Comp, plus the piston and valve guide clearance issues.
By skygazer - 12 Years Ago
I'm no cam guru either, but I've been warned against over-camming and over-carbureting... the two most common mistakes of novice hotrodders.



My engine is similar to yours... 292 .040 over, zero decked, 113 heads shaved to 67cc chambers, flat pistons, stock t-bird exhaust/2" all the way back, B-intake. This is 9:1 SCR with composition gaskets. Stock ford-o-matic.



I ran a Holley 4160 600cfm for a while, but I like the response from a 465 better. I chose a Mummert Y265 cam and I couldn't be happier... plenty of torque, good match for the ford-o. Very cool rumble at idle & around town, but a mean snarl when I punch it. Very tractable and predictable power, from parades to back road blitzes. I wasn't looking for huge top end power, but I got what I wanted.
By Pete 55Tbird - 12 Years Ago
Skygager.

Do you know what the intake manifold vacuum is at idle with the car in drive? I am kind of curious. You are so right about too much cam and a Ford O Matic not playing well together. Pete

By Ted - 12 Years Ago

Dan.  Without knowing exactly where the camshaft is installed, the head combustion chamber cc or the distance the pistons are sitting in the hole, some assumptions must be made.  But beyond that, here are the numbers I used with the Isky 270° cam installed at 2° advanced.  Static compression ratio is 8.89:1 while dynamic compression ratio (DCR) is 7.04:1.

 

 

With the Mummert 272 cam installed at the same 2° advance, DCR increases to 7.20:1.

With the Comp Cam 264 (Int) cam installed at 2° advance, DCR increases again to 7.31:1.

 

In regards to piston to valve clearance, advancing the camshaft brings the intake valve closer to the piston while retarding the camshaft brings the exhaust valve closer to the piston.  Until you mock up the engine and do a physical check, you’ll not know where you stand on piston to valve clearances.  The amount the decks and heads are milled will be a player here.  But looking at the Comp Cam specs, it will tolerate a moderate amount of cam advance even with some heavy milling on decks and heads.

By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Ted, I went out and did some more measuring on my set-up. Deck height was 0.014 "in the hole". The clearances on the CompCam were: 2* advanced I had 0.040 piston/intake valve clearance. Straight up it measured 0.160 piston/intake valve clearance. I always figured low compression would be my limiting factor in running the CompCam. Talking with CompCam people they said it was "right on the edge" of being too big. Of the other two cams which one do you think will run the best? I was leaning towards the Isky, installed 2* advanced, if I cant run the CompCam & have it run good.

Thanks,  Dan

By Ted - 12 Years Ago

Dan.  Your valve to piston clearances don’t jive for the difference a 2° change in cam timing makes.  The general rule of thumb is 0.025” change in valve to piston clearance with each 4° change in cam timing.  Are you checking the V/P clearance with head gaskets in place and with valve lash or no head gaskets and zero lash?  Might be worth rechecking your V/P clearances.

 

But beyond all that, then the next choice in camshafts would be the Mummert 272 mainly for its 108° lobe centerline which works with a majority of the street driven Y exhaust systems.  And don’t limit yourself to just 2° advance as you may be happier with 4-5° advance and especially if the timing chain set is new.

By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Ted, Im checking the clearance with head gasket installed & valve clearance adjusted to spec. I'll go back & reck it this morning. Interesting information on the Mummert cam, you've got me thinking. What kind of performance would could be expected with running the Mummert cam 4* advanced? Would that combination be better than running the CompCam straight up? Thanks for the information.
By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
I used the Mummert 272 advanced 4* and am very happy with the results. (292, .060" over 301 Y)
By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Y block Billy (1/21/2013)
I used the Mummert 272 advanced 4* and am very happy with the results. (292, .060" over 301 Y)

Bill, what intake & carb are you running with this? How much vacuum is it pulling? Flat top pistons?

Thanks

By Hoosier Hurricane - 12 Years Ago
Remember that valve to piston clearance needs to be checked through a few degrees travel near TDC, not merely at TDC.  For instance, as the intake valve is opening just after TDC, it is often opening faster than the piston is descending, and the "crash" happens a little after TDC.
By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Ok I went back through & ckd my piston/valve clearance. Clayed the piston, installed the head gasket, head,push rods & rocker arms. Adjusted the valves to cam spec .018. Turned the engine over 2 crankshaft revolutions then removed the head, sliced the clay form to see the valve impression. I did this at 2* advanced & straight up. Pic 1 is 2* advanced. Thats a .078 drill bit next to the clay impression, just about the piston/valve clearance. Pic 2 is straight up. Thats a .219 drill bit next to the clay impression. Again just about the piston/valve clearance. If I did something wrong let me know. I couldnt get the second pic to load but you get the idea.
By Ted - 12 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (1/21/2013)
Remember that valve to piston clearance needs to be checked through a few degrees travel near TDC, not merely at TDC. For instance, as the intake valve is opening just after TDC, it is often opening faster than the piston is descending, and the "crash" happens a little after TDC.
And John is absolutely right in that V/P clearance issues happen at ~8-10° before TDC for the exhausts and ~8-10° after TDC for the intakes.  Using the clay method for V/P checks disregards the exact number of degrees where the minimum clearance takes place but if using the light spring method, the engine must be slowly stepped through the ‘minimum’ intake and exhaust areas to obtain the absolute minimum clearance numbers for each valve.  But I see where you are using the clay method which is a proven method for checking the V/P clearance.



lowrider (1/21/2013)
Ok I went back through & ckd my piston/valve clearance. Clayed the piston, installed the head gasket, head,push rods & rocker arms. Adjusted the valves to cam spec .018. Turned the engine over 2 crankshaft revolutions then removed the head, sliced the clay form to see the valve impression. I did this at 2° advanced & straight up. Pic 1 is 2° advanced. Thats a .078 drill bit next to the clay impression, just about the piston/valve clearance. Pic 2 is straight up. Thats a .219 drill bit next to the clay impression. Again just about the piston/valve clearance. If I did something wrong let me know. I couldnt get the second pic to load but you get the idea.
Because you have such a disparity in V/P readings in just a 2° change in cam timing makes me think your cam is out of time in what you think is the 2° advance position.  So that leads me to wonder whether you’re verifying the actual camshaft location each time you move the lower sprocket.  The outer teeth not being marked on the lower gear makes it touchy to move the camshaft forward or backwards without double checking the ‘as installed’ intake lobe centerline angle.

If this is a Rollmaster timing set, then each key position on the lower gear may be labeled appropriately while the outer row of teeth are only marked with a single dot that matches up with the zero keyway slot.   If you’re using the single dot on the outer row of teeth for both cam timing checks, then you’re likely about two teeth off when you have the crank key in the 2° ADV position on the crank gear.  Each key way movement on the lower gear corresponds to at least a two tooth movement on the outer row.  Checking the intake lobe centerline each time the crank gear is repositioned will validate if you are indeed moving the camshaft as desired.  If you indeed are double checking the cam position either by the opening/closing specs or by the intake lobe centerline method, then never mind.

But back to the camshafts.  The Mummert 270 camshaft at 4° advance will have a higher DCR than the Comp Cam 264(Int) installed straight up (0° advance).  That essentially means the cranking compression on the Mummert cam will be higher than the Comp stick which translates to increased lowend torque with the Mummert cam.  Here are the numbers from the spread sheet I use.

                     Comp Cam Specs                                                                                      Mummert 270 cam specs

      

By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Tedyes I am using a Rollmaster timg set and use the inside dot to advance the cam. You caught me on checking the cam position on this. I've always struggled with that. No problem setting things up but when I go thru the crank rotation/degree wheel readings it never comes close to being right. Obviously I'm doing something wrong. Sounds like a good project for today. That said, the more info I read about the Mummert cam running 4* advanced the more intriguing it becomes. Just sounds like a better set-up.
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
In regard to the Rollmaster timing set, when you change the sprocket's position on the crank, you also have to move the chain in relation to the crank sprocket. If you only move the crank sprocket, the timing will be changed quite significantly. This is probably why you are getting such a dramatic difference.



http://www.ford-y-block.com/timinginstall.htm
By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
Dan, I tried to post last night but was getting server errors, anyway, I am running G heads sheved .030 along with intake surfaces shaved the correct amount for port alignment, pistons .010 in the hole, B manifold with 108 Ford 4 brll, hd a 112 on there which performed pretty good also, not sure if i can tell the difference in power, but the 108 comes on a lot smoother.
By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Charlie, I had that illustration next to me yesterday when I was checking things. When I advanced the cam in relation to the dot on the inner part I installed the chain in relation to the outer dot. I was checking things yesterday with the cam installed straight up & came up w/104 CL, 110 CL is the spec. That might be close. I read somewhere that CompCam grinds them a bit advanced. But Im not sure if its a correct reading. Reading CompCams instructions they say highest lift is when the needle starts to fall as you rotate it. There seems to be plenty of crank movement between when the needle stops & when the needle starts to fall. Where is the correct place to stop? Then I figured if I had a 104 CL I could retard the cam 6* and end up close to a 110 CL. I couldnt get it to read above 106 CL. I figured it was operator error & gave up last nite.

Bill, Im a big fan of the Ford 4100. I was going to run one on this until I ran across a "price is right" Holley 600 CFM w/ a manual choke on it. I guess if it doesnt work out I can go to the 4100. Are you running a manual or automatic?

By Ted - 12 Years Ago

Dan.  Are you taking degree wheel readings on each side of the max lobe lift and averaging the values?   If trying to simply center up on the top of the lobe, there will be a significant amount of error involved besides not being repeatable.  It’s normal to take readings 0.050” before and after the max lobe lift and then take the average of the two numbers for a lobe centerline measurement.

By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Ted, now that makes sense. I tried both the beginning and the end of the lobe lift and like you said nothing was repeatable. I'll give it another try today. Once Im satisfied I have figured out I'm going to try out the Mummert cam.
By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
Ted, "averaging" the values worked. Installed straight up it came out to 111 LC  (on a 110 LC cam) every time I checked it. I'll try a different cam today & see what happens. Who said you cant teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks.