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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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What is the best oil to run in a y-block engine after it is broken in? I will break the engine in using Joe Gibbs break-in oil but after that, what is the best oil for normal street use? I will be firing this engine up this spring and at that time, I will probably ask about break-in procedures. Thanks!
BudMan
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By yehaabill - 12 Years Ago
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Budman: Welcome and you do realize you've just "Opened that can of Worms" I'am sure you will recieve the answer you're looking for.....
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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As Bill says, you will get a dozen opinions on what oil you should use. Generally speaking, avoid oils with the "sunburst" gear on the label as they are intended for modern engines with roller valve trains, and most are reduced in ZDDP additive. Beyond that..??
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By mctim64 - 12 Years Ago
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Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1, Wal Mart 10w-40 what ever you like as long as the wt is 40 or above when it has an API SM rating. Try Wolfs Head Golden 40wt, it'll never let you down!
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By 1964fordf100292 - 12 Years Ago
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I would suggest using a deisel or race rated oils. These have the higher amount of zddp whicb will help protect your cam. The newer oils have a lesser amount of zddp due to it harms the cats in the exhaust system. If i remember correctly, in the starburst on an oil container, you dont wanna use anything that is sm, due to lower zddp content, unless you use a zddp additive.oreillys has a zddp additive.
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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Just my 2 cents worth, but I have been using Amsoil 100% synthetic Premium 10-40 for years now without any problems. That particular oil is formulated with extra ZDDP and made for flat tappet motors. You can look up the specs on their website.
Rono.
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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Yep it can be a can of worms that is for sure. After much research and trial and error of different oils and one Highly Recommended oil having a foaming problem as the anti-foam agent did not do it's job, I settled on Brad Penn and in a 10W30.
If you check the original factory specs on Y's you will find that the factory reccommended 20W with 5W20 in Cold Winter conditions, this will all depend on if your engine builder built to specs or if they clearance for a thicker oil. I use the 10W30 due to unleaded fuel causing them to run a little hotter as lead was a cooling agent in fuels of days gone by.
Good Luck with it.
312T85
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By speedpro56 - 12 Years Ago
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BudMan, these engines love synthetic oils with the old level of zddp period. From my experience Amsoil 10w 40 as Ron uses and /mobil 1 15w 50 have worked great for me since the 80s and have protected my engines from everything from drag racing to easy street driving and no sluge buildup at all after a couple hundred thousand miles. I'm sure their are others oils that are real good to but I can attest on these two brands really work well. Is this confusing enough? 
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By Hutz 292 - 12 Years Ago
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I see you used Joe Gibbs break in oil why not use his HR-3 racing oil designed for flat tappet engines. It has high levels of zinc and phosphorus for these type of engines. I run the HR-3 15W-50 Hot Rod oil in 62 F100 292 twin turbo y-block. I have been running that oil since I first built the engine. I am running over 600 whp horse power and 750 lb/ft of torque at the wheels with no failures. I would have to believe that the oil has proved itself in my eyes. I would suggest calling Joe Gibbs their tech department is great to talk to.
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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Been using 15w40 Rotella and it has never let me down. A FL1A filter and we are good to go. In the summer I do run some STP as well.
Hutz,
If you are running that kind of horsepower in your Y, you have got to do an article for the Y block magazine. Contact Bruce Young...
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By 56_Fairlane - 12 Years Ago
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I was thinking a good diesel oil like Rotella and Delo should have enough zinc. Here's link to a thread that has a chart with the amounts of that brands have in their oils. http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?86554-Diesel-oil-Zinc-content
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By HT32BSX115 - 12 Years Ago
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Howdy Y'all,
Oil threads usually turn into "Here's What I Use, and I've Never Had a Problem" and while anecdotal "evidence" might indicate what to use and what not to use, it's not very scientific....
Reading ads from distributors and suppliers that tout a (their own) brand is simply a biased advertisement.
Companies like Comp Cams, Isky and others will tell you what to use for break-in and long term use and you can usually believe them because they're not in the business of selling name brand oils (except maybe cam-lube additives) .....They also don't want to have to warranty their product too often....
It's useful to find articles by people who do not make money from hawking their particular type of "snake-oil".
I like staying informed by reading info from Lubrizol and other industry sites. They're one of few the companies that make those additives that others put their name on from (I hope no one thinks that all the oil companies make their own "secret sauce")
I also found a pretty good article on automotive lubricants at Machinery Lubrication (one of my other favorite sites)..... They don't try to sell you any oil, so it appears that they might be a little LESS biased.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils
Cheers,
Rick
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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I see lots of responses about the best oil to use, but nothing that would apply to an old "barn find" that has been started and brought back to life. The engine has maybe fifteen minutes on it just to get it started so I can warm up the oil and swap it out. Problem is not knowing whats been in it or what should go in it until I rebuild it and start out fresh.
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By Ted - 12 Years Ago
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Outlaw56 (4/6/2013)
I see lots of responses about the best oil to use, but nothing that would apply to an old "barn find" that has been started and brought back to life. The engine has maybe fifteen minutes on it just to get it started so I can warm up the oil and swap it out. Problem is not knowing whats been in it or what should go in it until I rebuild it and start out fresh. Any quality API- SN rated oil with 40W or higher in the multi-weight labeling will get the job done while providing adequate wear protection for the older flat tappet camshafts. On an older engine that has set up for awhile, then I’d recommend about two hundred miles on the new oil and then another oil and filter change just to help remove any rust or deposits from the system that may have broken loose within the engine. And insure the engine has a properly operating thermostat so that the oil also comes up to temperature.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted, done.
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By HT32BSX115 - 12 Years Ago
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Any quality API- SN rated oil with 40W or higher in the multi-weight labeling will get the job done while providing adequate wear protection for the older flat tappet camshafts.
Also, if you want to use a synthetic, Here's what I found from Mobil
| Question: | | Does Mobil 1 Contain the Additive for Flat Tappet Cams? | | I build a few engines a year as I do muscle car repairs and I have been having a lot of camshaft failures. I just read that it is because the oil no longer has the additive for flat tappet cams. Can I use Mobil 1 to break in fresh rebuilt engines of '60s and '70s tech? Is it too slippery for new ring break-in? Will it give protection on new cam and lifters? |
|  | | Answer: | | For older, flat tappet engines where wear may be more of a concern, we offer a number of synthetic oils which are higher in phosphorus than API SN/ILSAC GF-5 oils. These include Mobil 1 15W-50 (1,200 ppm), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 (900 ppm). For all newer engines and flat tappet engines in normal service, API SN/ISLAC GF-5 oils are preferred for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm). |
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By sprink88 - 12 Years Ago
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ok. Now that my head is spinning. Is Valvoline good? what weight? I know the book says straight 30w. Or should I go synthetic on just a stock motor?
Sorry to drum all this back up. But there was a sensory overload on all this info.
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By speedpro56 - 12 Years Ago
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Play it safe and like Ted says use something with 40w attached to it like 10w40, 15w50 etc.
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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sprink88 (4/8/2013)
ok. Now that my head is spinning. Is Valvoline good? what weight?
I've used Valvoline 20/50 and Valvoline VR1 20/50 for about 10000 miles each (20000 total) and it hasn't come flying apart, yet, so I say Valvoline is a good one to choose.
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By sprink88 - 12 Years Ago
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Thank you. I appreciate the quick response for my question. I am just looking for what is readily available on the shelf.
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By markoxpollo - 6 Years Ago
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This?
mctim64 (2/2/2013)
Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1, Wal Mart 10w-40 what ever you like as long as the wt is 40 or above when it has an API SM rating. Try Wolfs Head Golden 40wt, it'll never let you down!
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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Did you realize that this is a six year old thread?? markoxpollo (2/19/2019)
 mctim64 (2/2/2013)
Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1, Wal Mart 10w-40 what ever you like as long as the wt is 40 or above when it has an API SM rating. Try Wolfs Head Golden 40wt, it'll never let you down!
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By miker - 6 Years Ago
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And it’s a straight 40 at that. Oh well.
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By Daniel Jessup - 6 Years Ago
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pass the popcorn lol!
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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daniel why don't you read out the info i sent you 2 years ago to the chap asking about oil for ys
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"The American Petroleum Institute’s new heavy-duty engine oil categories effectively eliminate backwards compatibility in the industry. CK-4 is the replacement for current diesel engine oil categories, while FA-4 is a new category altogether, created in response to updated greenhouse gas (GHG) emission standards affecting engines to be manufactured in 2017 and after. Speed says owners should just steer clear of diesel engine oil in their gasoline engines and pay close attention to new labeling if using diesel engine oils in their towing vehicles. “This really is risk management,” says Speed about the importance of protecting engines with the right oil, from the start. “Curveballs are being thrown here. So, buyer beware.” He recommends during the break-in process owners turn to a ZDDP-enhanced oil rather than the new diesel engine oil options to improve surface mating and extend the durability of internal engine components in their new or rebuilt engine.
JOE GIBBS RACING OILS - http://admin.compperformance.com/news/dro/training-center/latest-tech-bulletins/buyer-beware-diesel-oil-changed/
SHELL ROTELLA was the go to oil some years ago. The formulation was changed due to emission factors. The original oil was made still available for early diesel usage in 5-GAL pails for fleets with older equipment and to lessen the chance of consumer purchase.
Some so-called RACING OILS - A true racing oil has a much lower detergent/dispenser packge. It is not intended for street use although some refiners use the label RACING OIL as a gimmick and their product(s) may be street engine comparable.
Same with specifications from a 1955 SHOP MANUAL. What is described there is how old?
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By LD-Ordie - 6 Years Ago
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Oil threads never really die off, guess it's better for an old thread to re-surface than starting a new one....... So I'm another fan of Rotella. T6 synthetic 10/40 with a zinc additive for extra protection
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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Ask Ted what he thinks of Rotella although I don't know if it applies to T6 synthetic
LD-Ordie (2/24/2019)
Oil threads never really die off, guess it's better for an old thread to re-surface than starting a new one....... So I'm another fan of Rotella. T6 synthetic 10/40 with a zinc additive for extra protection
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By slumlord444 - 6 Years Ago
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The only problem with the old threads is that specifications keep changing. Rotella was good. Not good now. Going to keep with Valovline 10-50 racing oil that was recomended when I built my 312 a few years back unless it has changed too. Not sure what to use in the 302 in the '65 Mustang that I am finaly gettring road worthy. Engine was built many years ago and broken in but only has a few miles on it. Consering using a stash of valvoline 10-40 in the old paper cans that I picked up a a swap meet last year while it lasts. A retired mechanic friend says he read an oil report that says Mobile 1 is fine for the old flat tappet engines and that WalMart genaric full synthetic is compareable to Mobile 1. Can anyone confirm this? I think its cheaper than Valvoline racing oil.
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By Lord Gaga - 6 Years Ago
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"10-40 in the old paper cans that I picked up a a swap meet last year while it lasts."
I read on these pages that oil has an expiration date. Is that true?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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According to the results of googling "motor oil expiration" and "motor oil shelf life" the consensus appears to be yes, it does expire. Mobil Oil state in their faq that it is 5 years. Valvoline, on the other hand, state that there is no expiration as long as it meets or exceeds the api rating and is stored properly, but without any definition of what proper storage is.
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By Daniel Jessup - 6 Years Ago
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2721955meteor (2/21/2019)
daniel why don't you read out the info i sent you 2 years ago to the chap asking about oil for ys
Meteor: that was great information! I will have to find where I put it though.
I said "pass the popcorn" because with the oil issue there are 12 opinions for every 5 people that answer! 
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