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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Im looking for information on this carburetor. Its out of a stock 1956 272 Y block Chasis Cab F-250. The gas tank and lines have been cleaned and/or replaced to the fuel pump. I have installed a fuel filter in the flex line between the fuel pump and the had line that exits the frame rail. The truck has not been run for a long time. The gas tank was coated in a green slime and the pickup tube was closed with a tar like substance. I also noticed the huge throttle return spring which seems a little overkill. I just want to get the truck running, then go from there. Can someone tell me if this is an easy carburetor to rebuild? Im also wondering if I should remove the fuel pump and try to clean it up before I try and start it. The engine was running good before the truck got parked. It turns over good now.  
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By NoShortcuts - 12 Years Ago
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Hi Darrell,
Your picture is good of the fuel bowl where the Holley series numbers are. It appears that you have a Holley 2110 carburetor.
According to my book, the '56 and '57 Ford trucks were originally equipped with a Holley Model 2110-EE unit which had an automatic choke. Unlikely, but perhaps the carb you have still has an aluminum carb identification tag secured by one of the screws that holds the fuel bowl cover in place with the numbers on it. Another indicator that you do have the EE model would be if the carburetor base has four (4) holes in the base that secure it to the intake manifold.
It's likely your carburetor just needs a good cleaning and tune-up kit after sitting for so long. The gas evaporates, varnish is left and the accelerator pump piston is no longer functional due to age. These carburetors are easy to work on, IMO. -Unlike some, there are no special tools required to make necessary adjustments.
IF you're interested, there is a Holley factory repair manual available on the Internet from The Carburetor Doctor. It is 151 pages in size (!) and covers the Holley AA, 2100, and 2110 series carburetors. Cost is $9.95. While you can download the whole thing, you may wish to just print the section pertaining to your carburetor. In setting the page range for printing, be alert to un-numbered pages in the manual (like the cover page, or pages between sections) so that you get all that you want.
To locate the web site for this manual, Google 'The Carburetor Doctor' or www.carmd.com
On the Home page that opens, look in the left hand column under 'Service Information Catalogs and Pictures'
- Under 'Holley', Toggle '2100 (AA-1)'
- On the page that opens, notice the history that runs down the left side regarding this series of carburetors
- Next, look in the center section of the page for the heading 'Manuals'
- Toggle the manual for Model AA-1, 2100-DD, 2100-EE, and 2110; The web site will open to a downloadable Holley factory service manual covering your carburetor
The Holley service manual contains the following info. on the Holley 2110 (3 or 4-bolt flange carb.) - Table of Contents
- Installation
- Description
- Operation
- Overhaul
- Disassembly
- Reassembly
- Installation
- Service Hints
- Trouble Shooting Chart
Hope this helps! 
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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I knew someone would be able to read that. Its not that clear to me, but I figured you guys who know this stuff would recoginze it by the # AND the photo. Its not the original. Im really surprised at the information you provided regarding these models having the electric choke. I have three 56's and every one of them have a "choke" cable in the dash board that pulls to open the choke on a manual choke carb. I have never seen one with an electric choke unless I changed it and did away with the choke cable. I checked, its a three bolt mount. I have the carb the guy said came with it and its also a three bolt. Unless the intake has been changed, Im assuming it came with a three bolt. No way of telling that I suppose. The one in the photo is a manual choke controlled by the cable mounted in the dash board. I will look for that book and maybe take a chance and go thru it. I have always wanted to try it, but never got around to it. Now would be the time, Thanks for your response.
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By NoShortcuts - 12 Years Ago
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Hi Darrell,
NOT an electric choke. The predecessor to the electric choke. An 'automatic' choke has a choke 'stove' with a bimetallic spring inside it, with heat provided by exhaust gasses heating air in a steel tube running through the inside of the intake manifold in the early year y-blocks.
As the bimetallic spring is heated by the hot air, it increases in length and 'automatically' moves the carburetor choke linkage and connected choke plate. The choke 'stove' housing usually has a black phenolic plastic cover that can be rotated (adjusts spring position in relation to choke linkage) to adjust how quickly or slowly the choke opens as the spring is heated and expands.
Put another way, if the spring is positioned so that it must expand quite a bit before the choke plate starts to open, the air fuel mixture will be rich longer as the engine is started. If the spring is positioned so that with even a small amount of heat it begins to expand sufficiently to open the choke plate, the air fuel mixture will be rich for a very short period of initial engine operation.
My explanation is more involved than the operation of the mechanism! The bimetallic spring and the heated air to it are the key elements to the operation of the 'automatic' choke system.
My recollection is that the '54 Mercs were the first y-blocks to use an 'automatic' choke. '54 fords had the hand choke...
By the way, if you purchase a 'tune-up kit' for your carburetor, you'll likely find it has an installation sheet. Not as expensive as the downloaded Holley manual I mentioned, and possibly enough info for you to get the job done. Lacquer thinner is an adequate cleaning solvent for your carburetor parts. Commercial carburetor cleaner is better, but if you're only doing one carb, far too expensive to consider. Lacquer thinner as you likely know is extremely flammable... be careful where you use it and the cloths that might have it on them
Regards,
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Ok im with ya now........just took me awhile to catch up. Thanks!
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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Darrell,
Follow "No Shortcuts" advice to be sure. These are good carbs and I myself have rebuilt a slew of them. The carb is just about identical to what Ford put on their 55 and 56 passenger cars. The main difference being the air horn up top and how the air cleaner sits on the air horn. "Most" of the internals are the same and will swap from carb to carb. Aftermarket suppliers are still making kits for these carbs and usually one kit will cover a "series" of carbs like this one that has small, different options.
Like you though, I have never seen a truck from 55 or 56 have an automatic choke. All of the original trucks I have dealt with had the small 3 bolt base and the choke cable to the dash, with factory bezels and knobs for the cabling. I believe that 57 was indeed the first year for the change over to the 4 bolt holley base that would be the same kind like what you see on 60's Mustangs, etc. Of course, different intake altogether.
By the way, Ted has an excellent article on his own website that explains how to modify the base of this particular carb so that you can run an updated (57 and up) Y block distributor, instead of the lazy loadamatic that is still most probably sitting in the block.
Gotta love these fat-fendered ford trucks!!!
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Daniel,
I will most definitely check out the article. I dont like the "hickup" in the older distributers. This particular truck is on the "hold" list behind two 1/2 tons that Im building. Short term is to get her up and running. Long term is build this F-250 long bed into a flat bed with smoke stacks and duallies just for something different. I watched a you tube video last night on rebuilding the 2100. I felt pretty intimidated watching the guy take it all apart. I have not watched the video on putting it back together. Lot of parts for such a little piece of equipment. I have a brother in law who is a retired mechanic for back up. Thanks for the response1
Darrell
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By NoShortcuts - 12 Years Ago
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This is to follow-up on what Dan said. My info source regarding the original carb for your application supposedly being a four bolt mounting flange 2110 was the web site I referred to, The Carburetor Doctor.
The only Ford Truck parts books I've got, cover the the years '57 to '63. Referencing the '57 carburetor section for the 272 engine, there are some 13 different carburetor identification numbers listed depending upon the application (F-100 to B/C/P & T-700!) -What I'm not aware of regarding different truck series! In the carburetor section that I'm looking at for the '57 272 engine, there is no indication of whether the carb bases are three bolt or four bolt. The Internet can be a great info source, but the info may be incomplete or incorrect.
I've only worked with the three bolt base '56 Holley 2100s / FoMoCo EBU6s myself. I like the '56 units because of the 1 1/16 venturis and the annular style venturi boosters.
As Dan suggested, I think that you'll find disassembly, cleaning, and tune-up kit installation easier than you might expect. For your purposes, I would not remove the choke plate or the throttle plates. Lacquer thinner, compressed air, a small paint brush (1/2 inch with natural bristles and without a plastic handle) a couple of sizes of straight blade screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, and the direction sheet that comes with the repair kit, and you'll likely have all that you need. -If I've left something out, at least you get the idea that you won't need fancy tools. There are much more difficult carbs to get in trouble with IMO.
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By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
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I dont beleive the trucks got the 4 bolt carbs until 58, at least the 57's I have seen including mine still had the 3 bolt with loadomatic, they must have had a slew of them left and decided to use them up in the trucks rather than waste them.
However, the 54-55-56 big trucks had a 2 barrel teapot thad had a 4 bolt flange but it was a smaller bolt pattern than the 57 and latter manifolds using the 2100 series carburators.
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By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
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Looking at the picture it looks like a 7RT model of the Holley 94 carb. If you look at the other side of the float bowl it may have 7RT stamped in. One of the "bigger" 94 carbs. I'm running 3 of them on my 57 Ford.
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By bird55 - 12 Years Ago
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All this carb info is right on BUT I didn't catch from your posts as to how you've dealt with the gas tank?
From experiance I can tell you that you should deal with it first if you have any doubts about it. filters and new lines and pumps won't cure it's problem. Let us know what you've done to it. Sometimes a replacement is the only chance. I have wasted a lot of time trying to clean, seal and repair old ones that would have been better spent starting with a fresh one. But that's how we learn.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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I could not get gas to exit the tank with air pressure in the fill tube. I removed the gas guage sender unit and float assembley and found a heavy coat of green slime. I put enough thinner in the tank to cover the bottom of the residue and dissolve the deposit. Then I washed the inside of the tank with a heavy duty cleaner (TSP) mixed with hot water. After rinsing with fresh water, I put a heat gun in the sending unit hole on low and waited for it to dry. Upon inspecting, I fould a liquid tar like substance had drained out of the pick up tube and puddled right at the bottom of the tube. More cleaning concentrated on the tube restuling in more deposit being removed. Repeated steps with thinner and TSP, final rinse, and dryed by warm air circulating with heat gun in sender unit hole. Painted tank and in process of reinstalling in truck. Have cleaned the hard line from tank to under cab, and hard line in frame also cleanded. Replaced flexible fuel hose's (three) and installed filter between frame hard line and fuel pump. (No sign of any fuel filters in stock system). Im going to test start it next week and see if the fuel gets to the fuel pump. If it gets thru the fuel pump to the carb, I will see how the carb is acting. The gas tank was full of crud, so I will be surprised it it did not impact the fuel pump, or more likely, the carb. Eventually I will move the tank out of the cab and replace with a rear between the rails tank. I just want to get this truck running now so I can move it around while Im working on it. I have two other 1/2 ton F-100's that are ahead of this one (F-250). The 250 gets all the good stuff left from the half tons and will be a dually flatbed with smoke stacks and a nice flatbed on her.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Looking at the other side of the carb, its stamped EC W on one side and H2110 on the other. If its a 2100, model 94, 7RT would that be written somewhere else on the body of the carb? Also, throttle return cable seems to be over kill and, hooked in the wrong place on the carb side? 
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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There is what I suspect the original carb in a box of extra parts. I am unable to find any identification on the carb body other than "Ford" script. Is there an advantage over rebuilding this carberator over the H2100 regarding parts availability, quality, and skill level of rebuilding?
   
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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The carbs are almost identical. I could swear that the one installed on your engine now is an earlier version of the one that was original (or at least that base where the butterflies sit has been swapped). What gives it away quickly is the base and that cap on the opposite end of the butterfly shaft. Which one you rebuild I would say depends on which one has a better base. Those butterfly shafts are known for getting "out of round" as the shaft rotates against the bore all those years. I would remove the base from both carbs and check out which one has less wear. you may be surprised to find a difference in the throats on each one of the bases.
Some of these parts will swap out between carbs.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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They do look identical. I will see if she starts. The guy I got the truck from said he rebuilt the carb but then it sat for a long time. If its anything like the gas tank and fuel lines, she aint gonng get gas to the jets. Thanks Daniel.
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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I would fill the fuel bowl and see if the accelerator pump squirts anything through the nozzles. If that works, then you MIGHT be ok just to get it running. I would think that the fuel bowl would have bits of junk in there though, clogging those jets. I have seen these things get pretty nasty inside! 
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Daniel,
When you say fuel bowl do you mean put fuel down the throat of the carberator? I removed the base from the carb that is off the engine for a check on the base plate. Can you provide more information about what I should be checking for? 
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By lowrider - 12 Years Ago
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Like the 7RT the ECW was used on Ford trucks F100-F600.
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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The fuel bowl on these carbs is the bulk of the middle section that makes up these small carburetors. You have the baseplate at the bottom (butterflies and shaft, etc), the fuel bowl assembly (with some linkage parts too), and the very top is what is commonly called the "air horn" (where the air cleaner attaches to the carb itself at the extreme upper neck). If you remove the 5 cap screws on the very top of the carb, you can then remove the air horn assembly (watch for linkage hangups on the passenger side of the carb). Once removed, you can see that the float and needle are attached to the underside of the air horn assembly at the front of the carb. Also, you can look down into the fuel bowl of the carb itself to take a look at its condition.
The two brass, large-head screws (actually fuel bowl drain plugs that provide access for jet removal) are what identifies the fuel bowl on these carbs, as well as indentification by the fuel inlet fitting (where you unhooked your hard metal fuel line) that rests on the air horn assembly.
Once that air horn assembly is removed, you can find out how dirty/clean the bottom of your fuel bowl is. I would suggest doing that before attempting to use the carb to start the engine (at the least). If it is clean, you can fill this with fuel (maybe halfway or so - remember that the large brass float will take up some space in the fuel bowl itself.)
Once satisfied, reattach the air horn assembly and then operate the butterflies as you peer down the carb throat with a light. You should see fuel squirting into the bores of the base of the carburetor. This will be a good indicator of whether or not you can get the air/fuel mix to flow, but it is only a start.
Check for exterior body leaks on the carb, and if none, then attach a modified cup or bottle (portable gas can) to the fuel inlet fitting on the top of the carb to give you some kind of a fuel tank where you would not need a fuel pump or the truck's gas tank to supply fuel. You can cut off your hard line, or fashion another, and turn it upside down at the fuel fitting area, attach that to your portable gas can you made, and then suspend your portable gas can above the carb so that fuel will flow freely when needed. The needle, seat, and float should regulate flow into the fuel bowl.
Let us know how it turns out.
On the baseplate you removed, you need to check to make sure that the shaft that runs the length of the base and beyond operates normally as you turn the shaft to move the butterflies. How does the shaft move in the bore? tight? loose? If the end of the shaft near the linkage side wobbles in its bore a bit, then you know that you have a little too much wear. If so it will create a bit of a vacuum leak.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Daniel,
The butterfly shaft in the base plate moves good, the butterfies are tight when closed. There is a very tiny bit of play in the shaft. Can this be repaired or replaced?
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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some of the carb parts companies sell a bushing that you can place in the bore of the base where the shaft goes through on the linkage side. I think Tee-bird products might have them (they sell 55 and 56 Ford parts supplies - I know this is a truck carb, but that shaft is the same as the one on a 55 or 56 ford passenger car 2 barrel). You could also check the Daytona Carbureteor Company down in Florida. They are very knowledgeable and have quality stuff.
I have completely disassembled the bases in the past, drilled out the bore a couple sizes higher, and then installed an O-ring. If you have no experience with that kind of thing, I would not suggest it unless you really don't care about the parts and you can get more bases easily. You have to be real precise with the O-ring. The rubber O-ring will take care of that vacuum leak caused by the elongated bore.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Did you drill the hole all the way thru or just countersink it on the outside of the throttle linkage side deep enough to insert an "O" ring"
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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countersink the hole about 1/4"... you may want to pick an O ring, slip it on the shaft, and then measure with a caliper to get the size drill bit you need. I also use just a bit of white lithium grease with the O ring install.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Daniel!
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By Noob - 12 Years Ago
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Daniel Jessup (3/21/2013)
countersink the hole about 1/4"... you may want to pick an O ring, slip it on the shaft, and then measure with a caliper to get the size drill bit you need. I also use just a bit of white lithium grease with the O ring install.
Awesome techique... I've got a couple spares in need, so I'm gonna give this a go on one of them rather than the bushing route. Thanks for the tip.
Cheers... Brian
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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I came across a Motorcraft 11 (only identification found on carb) in my "extra" Y block parts. So my question is looking for advise which carb is better choice, Holley 2100 or this one? This one appears to be in really good shape and was running when I swapped it out.  
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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These carbs definitely have more cfm and parts for modifications are much easier to come by. If you have an intake for this carb, go ahead and use this one. I think the linkage for this carb is on the driver's side while the old 3 bolt carbs are on the passenger side, right?
Definitely easier to come by an air cleaner for this carburetor too.
This looks like a Holley 2300... somebody on the forum will know for sure, let's wait for him to chime in.
Remember that if you use this carb, you will need to change your distributor to a 57 and up model (vacuum and mechanical advance). Also, depending one what heads you have on that Y block, you need to make sure that the new intake seals well (larger runners than the one you have now).
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Daniel. I will get the number off the intake I removed it from and compare that to the intake number on the intake with the holley 2110. Meanwhile I will probably try and just get the truck started with the holley so I can avoid any further expense (changing distributers) until I know the engine sounds good. My first priority on this ol girl (F-250 cab chasis) is to get a flat bed, smoke stacks and daullies on her. Drive her while I finish up my F-100s.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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So I got the gas tank back in, filter installed, and gas pumping up to the carb. Truck tried to start but kept choking. I heard and smelled gas. Gas gushing out the little tube in the top of the carberator opening (see photo) .........stuck choke?
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By The Bat out of hell - 12 Years Ago
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Float is stuck open or Nedile & seat is bad,or pump PSI is to high/anything about about 4 psi is too high. Gas should not come out of there at any time.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks bat, will install a kit!
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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That small tube is supposed to be sucking in air (can't remember exactly where it actually leads to, but IIRC it helps to lean out the A/F mixture) to the carb throats. Not a good sign if it is gushing fuel. You definitely have a blockage somewhere down low. Reminds me of my first kidney stone! 
Did you ever have the chance to check out the fuel bowl first? Can't remember... we have had so many posts here.
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By Outlaw56 - 12 Years Ago
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No I never checked it out Daniel. I made sure I had fuel to the carb, then tried to start it. Once I got that far, I was pretty sure I would want to at least put a kit in the carb. They we had an exchange of information on the other similar carb and that one had a wobbly butterfly on the base valve, which raised the same question to this one. After having the starting problem with the fuel gushing out that tube, I removed the carb and its waiting for a kit now. The butterfly valve on the base of this one is better with very little, if any, wobble. This should get her running, then I will talk to you guys about ultimately swapping the intakes to up date to a newer carb and John Mummerts Rams (and replace the distributer). But thats not on the list real soon if I can get her running.
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