New plan on a motor


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By junkyardjeff - 12 Years Ago
I have found a 292 block that had been bored but not assembled and a set of C heads that are ready to go on that have hardened seats,will use the crank and rods from my 62 motor along with all the other needed parts from it. Was going to use my 272 motor but it might be a good motor so I will use it in a 50s style hotrod that I want to build in the future,before I start this build is there a better block to use since I think the one I am looking at is a 56 and I have a 62 motor. Are the later blocks any better then the early 292s.
By NoShortcuts - 12 Years Ago
Hi Jeff,

My understanding from John Mummert's web site is that the March '59 and up FoMoCo y-blocks utilized longer main cap bolts.

John offers longer stud or bolt kits with installation instructions for use with the main caps in the earlier blocks.

Google http://www.ford-y-block.com/Iinstallation.htm. When that opens, toggle the heading 'ARP Main Cap Fasteners' for the installation sheet information.

While there were THOUSANDS of y-block engines produced prior to FoMoCo changing to the longer main cap bolts, I suspect that the change was prompted by what was being seen in the field as the engines accrued higher mileage and the Ford Authorized Rebuilders were providing feedback to Ford regarding 'issues'.

Production changes are many times prompted by economizing efforts, a better way to accomplish something, or as I suspect in this case, repair / rebuild experience.

Hold a '54 through early '59 main cap up with the original bolts protruding through it. The bolts appear to only extend a small amount below the bottom surface of the cap, IMO!

After reading the longer bolt installation instruction sheet, you may desire to opt for the later block with the longer bolts already installed. Smile
By Rono - 12 Years Ago
To add to what No Shortcuts said, the C2AE 292 truck block is said to have heavier webbing in the main area which adds strength to the bottom end. This block also has the deeper main cap bolt holes so you could use ARP Main studs if you wanted to. On boyj my C2AE blocks I went with the ARP Bolts rather than the studs, but that's just meBigGrin

Rono
By slumlord444 - 12 Years Ago
If you are building a mild street motor it should not make a difference. I would go with the new longer bolts just because you are dealing with over 50 year old bolts that are easily replaced. If you are building a full house race motor and plan to turn it 7,000 RPM you may want to go with the later block. I would also recomend new AARP rod bolts which will require re sizing the rods. A few extra bucks well spent.
By Ted - 12 Years Ago
junkyardjeff (3/31/2013)
..... Are the later blocks any better then the early 292s.

While my preference for a 292 block that is used for a performance build would center upon a C2AE block casting, I still don’t have a problem with the earlier blocks for builds. If using the earlier blocks, I do change out the grade six main cap bolts for grade eight bolts. The ’61 and newer blocks did incorporate additional webbing in the main area which is a plus in the ‘high HP’ builds.

Regardless of the cylinder block being used, it’s still recommended to sonic check the blocks for cylinder wall thickness before doing any actual boring. Core shift can be very severe in some of the blocks regardless of the year of manufacture. If going for an extreme amount of bore on the first cut, then sonic checking can potentially point you towards offset boring to help center up the cylinder wall thickness where core shift is a problem.
By pegleg - 12 Years Ago
Ted (4/7/2013)
junkyardjeff (3/31/2013)
..... Are the later blocks any better then the early 292s.

While my preference for a 292 block that is used for a performance build would center upon a C2AE block casting, I still don’t have a problem with the earlier blocks for builds. If using the earlier blocks, I do change out the grade six main cap bolts for grade eight bolts. The ’61 and newer blocks did incorporate additional webbing in the main area which is a plus in the ‘high HP’ builds.

Regardless of the cylinder block being used, it’s still recommended to sonic check the blocks for cylinder wall thickness before doing any actual boring. Core shift can be very severe in some of the blocks regardless of the year of manufacture. If going for an extreme amount of bore on the first cut, then sonic checking can potentially point you towards offset boring to help center up the cylinder wall thickness where core shift is a problem.



Ted told me one of the worst (for core shift) was a 61 (?) block I sent him. It was originally from a Crusader Marine engine. This makes sense to me as tooling wears out over time, and that tooling was probably five or six years old by the time this block was cast. Worn out means the core prints (locators) will have been "fixed" or repaired numerous times. Might have been done right, might not, so be careful with the later stuff.