By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Hey guys, I just got my Edsel's 292 running a few weeks ago. I'm pretty new to the engine rebuild / service scene and I've been told my valves / lifters sound sticky. Can I get your guys' opinions?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hFgpstD2y0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3IvNZ0quwU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psUpSuAZccc
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Definately sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment. There should be some precise instructions available by searching the Forum if you need them. Don't forget that number one is on the passenger side. Chuck
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (4/9/2013) Definately sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment. There should be some precise instructions available by searching the Forum if you need them. Don't forget that number one is on the passenger side. ChuckThanks. I'll look it up. Is this something that I should completely stop running the car for? Lately I've been taking it out on weekend drives. Occasionally up to 75 MPH. Hope I didn't do any damage.
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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In most of the videos I have of mine running, the valves sound pretty loud. I think it's just the way the mic pics up the sound. And I can hear the valves when they are adjusted correctly. They may not be absolutely silent when adjusted. If it actually is that loud, then you do need to check and probably adjust the valves.
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Question: Theres an auxiliary oiler attached to the valve covers. Should I get rid of that?
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Have you done any work to the engine? If not you will need to pull both valve covers, disable the external oil supply and see if oil is flowing out of the rockers and that the return holes are open. Those add on oilers were done because the oil of the 50's was not as good as it is today. Sometimes they were added as a matter of practice by some shops. The feed and return holes would get clogged so they added the oiler. If your not getting oil to both heads without the oiler then you need to keep it until you can do some engine work. Once you run this test if the oil is not flowing I'm sure some others here will pop up with the next steps. Chuck
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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More than likely there wasn't oil getting up to the rockers because they put that oiler on the car. The only way to find out if they are needed is disconnect the oilers, plug them and run the car. If oil is getting up to the rockers (and going out the overflow tubes) then you don't need them.
And I agree, you need to adjust the valves - you have one or two out of adjustment.
'59Edsel (4/10/2013) Question: Theres an auxiliary oiler attached to the valve covers. Should I get rid of that?
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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paul2748 (4/10/2013)
More than likely there wasn't oil getting up to the rockers because they put that oiler on the car. The only way to find out if they are needed is disconnect the oilers, plug them and run the car. If oil is getting up to the rockers (and going out the overflow tubes) then you don't need them. And I agree, you need to adjust the valves - you have one or two out of adjustment. '59Edsel (4/10/2013) Question: Theres an auxiliary oiler attached to the valve covers. Should I get rid of that? So After I disconnect the oiler, I'm going to remove the valve covers and see if oil is coming up on its own? And I assume if I don't see anything happening, I need to turn the engine off immediately or damage will occur? I have a shop manual for the car, so I'll start reading up on things.
I'd call myself a beginner, but fast learner. I've done all the work myself so far (Brake job / carb rebuild / removed and cleaned distributor etc.) But not too much on the engine. Would you recommend I try the valve adjustment myself?
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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The rockers can survive a while without oil. At least long enough to check both sides for flow. The passenger head is slower than the drivers side due to oil routing. Chuck
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By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
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If they are not oiling, Dont worry about shutting down and damaging things right away, they are pretty forgiving and I have heard some people drove there cars just splashing the rockers with oil once every couple weeks. However if they are not oiling means the cam bearing is worn, spun or your oil passage is blocked and you will eventually have to do major investigation and/or surgery to remedy the problem. Just hook your auxilliary oil line back up and enjoy until you can remedy the situation.
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Okay guys, I removed the valve covers today and these are my observations:
In video one you can see an overall view of the engine running. To me it sounds like the noise if coming from the number 4 cylinder.
Video One: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqjZTtvZn-U
In video two you see a bit of oil coming from the number four area, but not too much from the number 5.
Video Two https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1e37hOkgno
A few photos:






In this last one, the nut holding this oiler down was loose. This is also the area I think the valves are most noisy.

Let me know what you guys think. And also any advice on what to use to clean this area out.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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You are getting some oil to the rockers but its flowing real well. What is your mechanical expertise? Looking at the residue in the head I would recommend pulling the rockers off and cleaning them inside and out. Oil flows up through the head and into the rocker shaft from there it feeds to the rocker arms. The remaining oil comes out of the tube at the end of the rocker assembly and back into the engine. I didn't see any flow out of the tubes. But I can see you are getting some oil to both sides of the engine. I could see a fairly steady flow onto the tops of the valves and the push rods. It looked like the pushrods were getting oil ok. If you can take the shafts off they have a small press in plug in each end. These are available at some parts stores. You can knock these plugs out to get to the inside of the shafts. Clean them thoroughly along with the oil feed hole at each rocker location. Then clean out the feed holes on rocker arms. While you are at it it wouldn't hurt to clean the oil feed holes that come up through the block. One of them makes a dogleg turn at the block so you can't really pass a cleaning wire through it. Get what you can and then try a shot of air into the holes to clear any garbage left behind. Clean the head area and make sure the return holes are clear. Reassmble and test. There are several articles here on adjusting the rockers just do a search for them. Hope this helps, if I've missed anything there will be someone else to point it out. Chuck
Shaft plug conversation and part nrs here:
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic80265.aspx?Keywords=shaft%20plug
and a good article on valve adjustment here:
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html
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By HoLun - 12 Years Ago
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Is it me or does the rocker stands looks like they are loose? looks like they are actually moving in the video
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Hey HoLun where have you been? Havn't seen you here for a while. Chuck
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By HoLun - 12 Years Ago
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Yeah got into the gun hobby took a break from the car hobby hahah, and then i went to antarctica, now that i am back and getting the fairlane going again, sorted out most of the engine stuff, dailed in my holley 450, the thing is running like a new car, just doesn't look like one.
and to the OP, I'd take both rocker assy off, dissamble and clean, recommand marking which rock goes where and reassamble back the same place. hopefully its only clogged at the rocker area not the passages in the head and block.
and of course everything have to be tighten down properly before you can make correct lash adjustment. infact if anything else, tighten the rocker stand to spec and see if the noise die down. not liking how the rocker stand is acutally moving when the engine is running...
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (4/14/2013)
You are getting some oil to the rockers but its flowing real well. What is your mechanical expertise? Looking at the residue in the head I would recommend pulling the rockers off and cleaning them inside and out. Oil flows up through the head and into the rocker shaft from there it feeds to the rocker arms. The remaining oil comes out of the tube at the end of the rocker assembly and back into the engine. I didn't see any flow out of the tubes. But I can see you are getting some oil to both sides of the engine. I could see a fairly steady flow onto the tops of the valves and the push rods. It looked like the pushrods were getting oil ok. If you can take the shafts off they have a small press in plug in each end. These are available at some parts stores. You can knock these plugs out to get to the inside of the shafts. Clean them thoroughly along with the oil feed hole at each rocker location. Then clean out the feed holes on rocker arms. While you are at it it wouldn't hurt to clean the oil feed holes that come up through the block. One of them makes a dogleg turn at the block so you can't really pass a cleaning wire through it. Get what you can and then try a shot of air into the holes to clear any garbage left behind. Clean the head area and make sure the return holes are clear. Reassmble and test. There are several articles here on adjusting the rockers just do a search for them. Hope this helps, if I've missed anything there will be someone else to point it out. Chuck Shaft plug conversation and part nrs here: http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic80265.aspx?Keywords=shaft%20plugand a good article on valve adjustment here: http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html Thank you, I will do this. Any suggestion on what to use to clean all the residue out?
HoLun (4/14/2013) and to the OP, I'd take both rocker assy off, dissamble and clean, recommand marking which rock goes where and reassamble back the same place. hopefully its only clogged at the rocker area not the passages in the head and block.
and of course everything have to be tighten down properly before you can make correct lash adjustment. infact if anything else, tighten the rocker stand to spec and see if the noise die down. not liking how the rocker stand is acutally moving when the engine is running...Thanks, I'll make sure everything gets numbered, cleaned and torqued the way it should be.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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With the cleaners we have available today its mostly scrape and wipe. Once you get the heavy stuff off some cheap carb cleaner will help finish them off. You will want to plug the holes around the push rods and oil drains (at the bottom, each end of the head). Its preferable not to get the junk you clean off down into the lifter valley. Do you have an old Motors Manual or similar book for the torque spec etc? It would be a big help if you did. Chuck
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Yes, I have the maintenance manual for my specific make and model. I'm pretty excited about this. I'll try to take lots of pictures and post them here.
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Okay guys, I made some progress today. Before I get into cleaning and alike, I decided to tighten things down and try her out. I tightened the rocker shaft support bolts down (They all were pretty loose compared to the torque spec in the book.) I started to torque them at 45 foot pounds, but got nervous and didn't want to experience a bolt breaking, so I ended up torquing them at 25 foot pounds.
Should I bite the bullet and go all the way to 45? The book suggests 45 to 55.
Anyway...
After I tightened things down, the rockers quieted down! Cool! But now that I know the whole assembly was loose, does that mean it was doing some kind of irreparable damage? Hope not. Guess I'll find out when I Disassemble...
Here is a video of the results:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEIaREehaaw
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By HoLun - 12 Years Ago
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45FT LB??!?!?!?! nonono these are like 14Ft lb for the rocker stands!!
anyways I don't thing theres any damage done for being slight loose like it was, the better question is what else did the last guy who worked on it left loose on the engine..
seem to idle plenty smooth. I recommend getting the rocker shaft cleaned up, and see if oil will start flowing out the rockers again. I noticed a lot of blow by from the engine, the smoke from the valley, out the pushrod hole. good indication of stuck or worn rings. I recommend doing a compression check.
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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14?!? Oh jeez, I hope I didn't ruin anything. The book I have does have it listed from 45 - 55. Must be a typo. I'll have to loosen them and retorque them at the proper amount.
And aside from that, I'll get the compression check done and start cleaning the rockers soon.
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Okay heres my damage report on the misrepresented torque specs.
I loosened all the rocker stands bolts and, one at a time, removed them and inspected the threads.
All of the threads on the bolts themselves look fine.
Only 2 or 3 of the bolts don't go in by hand quite as nicely as I'd like them to go in, but they seem alright. And two of those three had just a a few slivers of stripped thread come out with them as I pulled them out. Oh well. Will this be a major issue for me at any point? And is there a method to correct this issue?
After the inspection I went around and torqued all the bolts to 14 pounds, which they took well.
Gave her a test run and all seems well. I got her nice and warm. Tomorrow I'll go in and recheck all of the torques.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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If the upper thread was ok its probably just from bottoming out. The torque readings were smooth and consistant then the threads will probably hold. You're gaining on it! Chuck
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Maybe I'll reword my last post. The auxiliary oiler obviously changed on two of the original rocker stands. The number one and number five pistons to be exact. If I were to change this back to stock, what parts would I need to buy?
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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You would need some shorter bolts and studs (just match length to the other ends hardware) the mounting plates, and oil return tubes shown below. The link is to Mac's catalog for new ones. Chuck
http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=F50&year=1956&make=Ford&ss=rocker+shaft&x=0&y=0
 
http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=F50&year=1956&make=Ford&ss=rocker+shaft&x=0&y=0
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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The tubes are already installed in the correct location. The yellowish blocks will need to be removed. A shorter bolt and appropriately sized stud may be required. A hole will probably need to be plugged since oil doesn't normally flow through that end of the shaft.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Sorry, I was looking at the wrong end. I know the block on top of the one rockerstand has an oil groove in it to feed oil into the rockers but I'm not sure how or if the rocker stand is modified. I think these kits just used the block and a hollow stud to feed the oil but where it enters the rocker shaft escapes me at this time. Happens a lot lately! Chuck
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By '59Edsel - 12 Years Ago
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Okay guys, tomorrow the big day. I'm going to remove the rocker assemblies and start soaking everything in oil eater. Does the engine need to be on TDC or anything before I remove everything? Also, when i reinstall, do I just go through the normal procedure of turning the engine by hand and doing the initial valve adjustment?
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