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By Ryan New Mexico - 12 Years Ago
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Guys, I hate to ask what will be considered a simple maybe stupid question, but I am sure there are others that need the same info. The more I learn the less I know about motor electronics, and basic engine wiring.
I am getting a Distributor from my local Napa, putting in a Petronix 2, with a blaster coil 2 as well. I Need to know what other electronics I need? I was looking at MSD stuff as well and see a box that goes with the ignition, and I am not sure what goes with what.
I have seen some simple diagrams and there is a resister in line, and I am just confused.
Can any of you gents give me the basic wire layout like what goes to what and what I will need to have a reliable running engine. Sorry in advance, I am very Mechanical, building my car from scratch with no problems, just hate electrical, mostly because I know nothing about it.
Thanks, Ryan
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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Ryan, The Pertronix II and Blaster Coil is all you need for your ignition. There is no "Box" with the Ignitor systems. Easy installation. Not sure on the use of a resistor, follow the instructions for the Pertronix Ignitor.
The Ignitor II and III are mostly fooll proof. They now have circuit protection against accidentally leaving your key on, unlike the original Pertronix (don't ask how I know the Ignitor I isn't protected).
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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You shouldn't need anything else for the ignitor 2. Simply follow the instructions for the installation. However, you can use it to trigger an aftermarket box. If you will use an aftermarket box, the ignitor 2 is a bit expensive to simply use it as a trigger.
We can't tell you how to wire it without knowing which box you're thinking about. Even so, the manufacturers provide great wiring diagrams with the instructions which are often available for download or by sending an email so you can read them and decide if it is within your abilities, before purchase. I'd use that before going by a 3rd party's recommendation for wiring.
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By Ryan New Mexico - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks guys. Its one of those deals where there is so much information, then you start looking at different products then my head starts to smoke. I am sure it is all simple, and I am sure I am making a mountain from a ant hill.
Thanks again guys.
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By stlroken - 12 Years Ago
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Ryan in New Mexico
You've hit the right place...this web site is invaluable..these guys don't blow smoke they tell it like it is. believe me I've asked some pretty dumb questons and have always been given great answers. Good Luck. Jim
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By Ryan New Mexico - 12 Years Ago
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Ok, one more question.
My motor is a 1956 272. Does anybody have the napa or advance auto part number for the distributor and Pertronix 2 PN? I read that 55-56 years use a different oil pump gear, so not sure the distributor (57 and up) will work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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By wlj1943 - 12 Years Ago
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Ryan,All Y-blocks ( and 49-53 up Flatheads as well) prior to 1957 used what Ford called a Load-a-matic distributor (designed by Ford and Holley) incorporating a carburetor mounted distributor vacuum control valve, all of which was calibrated differently for each engine and even vehicle application. Simply stated, it did not work very well back in the day, and required a very sensitive and stable vacuum source and a distributor machine to properly adjust, even for a simple tune-up.
Ford in 1957 finally changed to a better dual advance distributor. My advice is you run the 1957 or later distributors or one of the available after market units. The mechanical and vacuum advance calibrations can be changed easily; not true with the older technology. I run the Pertronix II and a Blaster coil, they work great.
WLJ
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By pegleg - 12 Years Ago
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The one you're looking for would be a '62 f100, 292. My Pertonix 11 does not use the resistor. you will want to play with the timing after you get it. We'll tell you how. AND there are no stupid questions, but I can give you some real stupid answers!
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By GREENBIRD56 - 12 Years Ago
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Nice to meet you Ryan - you've got some great salvage yards over there in NM - I'm always drooling over the fences on the way through Roswell....
Assuming your 272 is a '56 - the '57 distributor will fit right in there, it has the proper cam drive gear combination. The reman distributors for these motors are just about all from CARDONE - the major rebuilder. Ask for the distributor for a 1964 292 cubic inch F100 truck engine. Cardone number is 30-2808 - expect to pay from $85 to $100 if you don't have trade-in core. It won't coime with a cap or rotor - but the same year parts (1964) will do the job and are readily available. It will have both mechanical and vacuum advance equipment on it - and many have arrived with a useful set-up right out of the box.
When you shop for the Pertronix - ask for the same year of parts as the distributor - 1964 Ford.
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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If you haven't thought of it, you have to plug the vacuum hole in the carb (assuming it is a 2BBL) that the old distributor used. And you have to find a vacuum source for the new distributor.
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By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
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First of all, there is no such thing as a stupid question, a question is asked because somebody wants to learn something and there is nothing stupid about wanting to learn something you dont know!
2nd you mention resistor, the resistor cuts down the voltage from 12 volts to 6 on the coils after startup. your solinoid has 2 prongs, one gives the coil 12 volts while your key is in the start position and after starting in the on position of your switch it routes the current through the resistor to cut the voltage down to 6, this just prolonged the life of the points etc.
As far as running the petronics with the resistor, on my car I have plugged it in for some periods and run it, then unplugged it and run it and I have not been able to tell a difference in the power of the car whether it was plugged in or not but the instructions do say it should run on 12 volts so you would want to run it without the resistor in that case.
The resistor is a little ceramic thing on your firewall or I have seen them on a motor some times with a coil of wire that has one wire in and one out, the out wire will go to your coil. noting special but they do get warm, thats why they are in ceramic.
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By Talkwrench - 12 Years Ago
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Go the ignitor 3 if you can its multispark and with a rev limiter built in, also go the matching flamethrower 3 coil , its not much extra cost, hunt arount.. Oh and grab a set of Mr Gasket 925D dissy springs while your at it !
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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The use of a resistor depends on what coil you are using and which version of Pertronix you are using.If in doubt email customer service at Pertronix.On my setup with Pertronix 2 and Flamethrower coil the resistor is not used.
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By Ryan New Mexico - 12 Years Ago
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Guys, I can't thank you all enough for the help. This site is great, with a great bunch of guys, glad I found it.
I think I am square, ordering all my parts today, can't wait to fire this up!!!!!
Thanks again!
~Ryan
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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If you have the small 2 barrel carburetor (the 2100 or the 2110), check Ted Eaton's website. He has an excellent write up on there about modifying this carb so that the vacuum signal would work with a later model distributor. It is very easy to do.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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What Daniel said. The later distributor vacuum advance will not work properly with the vacuum signal for the Load-o-matic on your carb. The newer distributor needs 'ported vacuum' which Ted's write up explains.
And yes I know some of you disagree with the 'ported vacuum' and run 'manifold vacuum'.
I was using a Ignitor I to trigger a MSD 6A. As I admitted to earlier I left my key in the 'on' position and burned up my Ignitor I while fiddlin' around... . The Ignitor II and III have built-in protection for this. I have since gone with a Ignitor III with the Rev limiter and Multi-spark.. With the Ignitor III you don't need the MSD.
Make sure you get the Pertronix Ignitor for the distributor you are using. Different model for Load-o.
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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Some of us on here also run the Accel 2020 Points Eliminator Kit - I have installed those units on two different Y block distributors and they have worked flawlessly. The wiring diagrams and instructions are very easy to follow, and the kit takes the guesswork of points/condenser out of the equation... not that points are guesswork per se, most of us ran points when we were kids I guess... for a long time.
For a driver that gets a lot of use and to keep parts from wearing out so quickly, (in addition to the benefit of your spark, etc) go with one of these kinds of kits to eliminate your points and give you spark. With my Accel units, I run a stock coil with the 56 and up resistor in line. It would definitely be easier to run a coil that had its own resistor inside.
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By Noob - 12 Years Ago
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You know what I like about this forum (among many things), is that someone will ask for advise, and not only get a good thoughtful answer, but then get a heads-up of two about related or serial tasks. For me, I knew enough about the Pertronix stuff, but didnt know at all about Ted Eaton's tech on two barrel carb vacuum versus a manifold tap... a modification I now want to try.
It's like a rabbit hole, where one tunnel leads to another... Thanks, Ryan, for asking a "stupid" question. 
Brian
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