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By John Titman - 12 Years Ago
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Hello all:
Has anyone experience with 56 ford 4 barrel carbs? Mine is driving me crazy with the way it runs so poor when hot. It's just
like some kind of vapour lock problem . I've completely overhauled the carb and I've also installed a 64 distributor and fitted
it with Duraspark ignition all to no avail Help anyone?
Thanks John
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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Well the first problem I see is that the 56 carburetor was designed to work with the Load-o-matic distributor. The vacuum ports are in the wrong place for the later distributor vacuum advance to work properly.
I believe Ted has an article on his Web Site explaining how to modify the "teapot" to provide the correct vacuum signal for the later distributor.
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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John: For clarification, since you're new here, ( I'm the person that gave you this site address) go back to this sites opening page & to "links, then scroll down to Ted Eaton Balancing. While I'll assume you don't have a subsription to Y-Block Magazine, for those that do, or have access to issue #114, Jan-Feb 2013, the article also appears there.
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By Bruce Compton - 12 Years Ago
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John : Do yourself a big favor and replace the "teapot" with a Holley 390 CFM 4V. You will need an adaptor for the '56 intake, or get a '57 intake, but the change will make it seem like you just installed a new motor. Bruce
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By bn - 12 Years Ago
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I've heard this carb called a "Christmass Tree", "Haystack", "Teapot", and now "Coffeepot" carburetor.
My 56 Victoria Fairlane had a 2 barrel on it when I got it and some years ago I put a "Coffeepot" 4 barrel carb on it - just because that's what it was supposed to have. I bought several carb kits and carburetors on ebay and assembled what looked like the best parts into one carburetor. I had a lot of trouble getting one to work right. Turns out that two of the three top caps I had were porous! I have heard also that these caps can be warped. After I found the non-porous cap and installed it, I couldn't ask for a better running engine. Good idle, good at intermediate speed & load, good at full load. I'm sure I could realize more power by going to a different carburetor and a vacuum/centrifugal advance system instead of the Loadamatic, but it's got enough power for me.
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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Those old "Teapot" four barrells were actually a rather good carbuerator and my Dad was a mechanic but never had a bad thing to say about a "Teapot" and it sounds like you are a man that just gets to the bottom of things rather then just say a certain part is for crap. Keep up the good work as you sound like a real "FORDMAN" and not a give up artist like those Chebby guys.
312T85Bird
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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John Titman (9/6/2013)
Hello all:
Has anyone experience with 56 ford 4 barrel carbs? Mine is driving me crazy with the way it runs so poor when hot. It's just
like some kind of vapour lock problem . I've completely overhauled the carb and I've also installed a 64 distributor and fitted
it with Duraspark ignition all to no avail Help anyone?
Thanks John
Just one suggestion.If you used the new Carb Kit and it had the inlet fuel needle with the soft tip they can stick closed because the "new" fuels soften the material.Also was the clip that hooks onto the float and the inlet needle still in the carb and did you re-use it?That clip keeps the float and needle working together so that the needle opens as the float drops.It seems that the clip is thrown away when the Carb is overhauled by many rebuilders.I tried a pro rebuild on my Teapot and was still unhappy with the results.I changed to a 390 Holley with the 57 intake and the late dual advance distributor.Like night and day the difference in the way it runs.Unless you are restoring a 100 point Car I would suggest changing the setup.Much more reliable and its fun to drive.Mine is stock so I was not looking for performance.Just reliability and ease of maintenance.I just re-read your post and note that you have added the later distributor and thats a good start.
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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I have a 56 TBird with the stock carb (also called towering inferno's). I drove the car from NJ to CA via Portland and return and it ran very well.
There is a guy in PA that rebuilds these and knows them in and out - including everything that can go wrong with them. And he is not that expensive (no- where near the cost of the now defunct Pony Carbs). He actually runs them in prior to returning them to make sure they are right.
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By John Titman - 12 Years Ago
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Hello :
What do you mean by a top cap? My carburetor has open holes in the centre of the carb where the air cleaner fastening stud is
screwed in . Do I have some sort of a cap missing? Please let me know.
Thanks, John
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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How about a picture of the top of your carb. That would help. Chuck
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By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
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Being the coffee lover I am, I have always said you can steal my car, my money, my wife no problem, but if you spill my coffee I may get ugly.
That said I have to have 3 coffee pots going at all times on my buggy wrecker.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Only in Maine would somebody build a "6 barrell" with teapots. You are a wild one Bill. Chuck
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By bn - 12 Years Ago
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Actually, it's called the "cover" (instead of "cap") in the 1956 Ford Car shop manual. I think we are talking about the same part. An exploded view of the carburetor is shown in Fig 62 on Pg 103. I've slept lots of times since I did this, but I found my box of spare carb parts and on one of the covers I had written, "Bad, leaky power valve circuit." On page 106 the first paragraph reads,
"To check the operation of the power valve diaphragm press down on the stem, cover the vacuum passage in the cover with the thumb, and release the stem. If the diaphragm or center bushing does not leak, the stem will NOT return all the way down. If the stem does go to the limit of its travel, repeat the check, this time covering both ends of the center bushing, as well as the vacuum passage (the outer port between the two front mounting screw holes). If the stem holds steady now, the bushing is leaking and the main body cover should be replaced. If the stem leaks down all the way, replace the diaphragm and stem assembly."
When they say "the bushing is leaking" I think what they meant was that the cover has an internal leak.
It seems like I found the problem by applying compressed air, rather than the above procedure from the shop manual. I will do some more investigating and post more if I find anything else.
You have a beautiful car!
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By bn - 12 Years Ago
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Ok, I have one bad cover and one good one. By applying compressed air (using an air nozzle with a small tapered rubber end) to the Power Valve Port while holding thumb over the Vacuum Port, I get an obvious flow of air out the Bushing Port. Doing the same with the good Cover (even when holding the Cover under water) there is no air flow out the Bushing Port at all.
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By Ted - 12 Years Ago
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For the Holley Model 4000 carbs (Teapots), installing the air cleaner stud with a nylon gasket between the stud nut and the cover usually fixes the leaky bushing for the power valve circuit. The carb top cover gasket on the lower side of the cover takes care of any potential vacuum leaks at the bottom side of the cover's center bushing.
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By yalincoln - 12 Years Ago
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hi, looks like a couple of 2140 end carbs and a 2140G, governed center carb? used with 4 bolt adaptors on a 3 bolt tri- power intake.
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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Guys! When someone like John posts a tech question because he has a serious running problem with his car (I met him recently & suggested to him he should try our site for a solution) & members try to help him solve it, it's very annoying & rude, to have others interject what is essentally irrelevant personal stuff into the discussion. If you have to post that stuff, do it under a seperate heading such as This and That..
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By ejstith - 12 Years Ago
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Bruce Compton (9/6/2013)
John : Do yourself a big favor and replace the "teapot" with a Holley 390 CFM 4V. You will need an adaptor for the '56 intake, or get a '57 intake, but the change will make it seem like you just installed a new motor. Bruce
John, it sounds like you really want the "teapot" to work. However if you decide to put a 390 Holley on it go ahead & get some #56-#57 jets at the same time. I chased a flat spot for a year (changing squirters etc) & with the help from this site I put 57's in it and problem solved.
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By John Titman - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for the suggestion but, I want my car to be totally stock. I previously had the motor in my 56 delivery with a 57 600cfm
Holley and it ran great .I suspect my problem may be something quite obscure such as a faulty ignition coil or such. When the
car is real hot it will stall when put in gear and it stutters and misses I f I leave until cool it will run not bad.
Yours Sincerely, John
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By Ted - 12 Years Ago
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John Titman (9/17/2013)
Thanks for the suggestion but, I want my car to be totally stock. I previously had the motor in my 56 delivery with a 57 600cfm
Holley and it ran great .I suspect my problem may be something quite obscure such as a faulty ignition coil or such. When the
car is real hot it will stall when put in gear and it stutters and misses I f I leave until cool it will run not bad.
Yours Sincerely, John
John. If you had a '57 model Holley, I suspect the cfm was in the neighborhood of 450 cfm, not 600. If you have the Ford part number or the list number off of the choke horn of that particular carb and post either, that information can be verified. List numbers are a bit quicker to lookup though so use that one first if you have it. Kudos to you for wanting to keep the Teapot as they get very good fuel mileage when they are running right.
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