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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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looking for HELP! My dad and I are restoring a 1954 ford sunliner conv. my dad had one when he was younger and wanted to do project. So hear we are my dad was a mechanic all his life and is stumped. rebuilt motor and it will not start have checked cam timing and dist. timing over and over and over all we can get is a little pop or nothing?? getting frustrated can any one help? thanks for any info 
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Are you sure you are using the correct firing order? Also the distributor turns counterclockwise, the opposite direction of most others. Easy to forget when not working on a Y. If that is correct check for the usual spark and fuel delivery. Chuck
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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carb is rebuilt and seems to be getting fuel even tried as shot of starting fluid? went over plug wires and went by firing 0rder on intake and cyl order pas side1234 driver side 5678? if we move dis. one way we get a little kick on starter other nothing?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 12 Years Ago
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Are the distributor and the camshaft both '54 or both '55 or later? The tooth counts are different, and you can't interchange only one. If you do, the distributor will keep going in and out of time.
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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All are 54 and from the same motor. last run about 20 years ago. now freshened up with new bearings rings and heads were rebuilt.
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By Lou - 12 Years Ago
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Is the timming chain set up correctly, check shop manual for correct number of links between marks.
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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set by book dots towards the oil filter side (drivers side) and 12 pins between dots?
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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Is the distributor installed so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire at tdc on the compression stroke, rather than 180 degrees out, on the exhaust stroke.
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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You need to check the basics.With the damper at TDC, both valves on #1 cylinder should be closed.If not rotate one turn back to TDC.The rotor should be pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.If not the distributor is out 180 degrees.Next thing to checkd-do you have spark?Correct timing with ignition working+fuel should give you something.
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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turned motor over till compression was felt brought up to tdc both valves closed and dist. pointed at number 1 plug on cap?
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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spark looked good has new points and coil?
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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any one think it would help to spin it over faster with 12v would help maybe turning over to slow it is still 6v?
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Try putting a charger on the battery as you crank it. Sometimes that will add just enough boost. I'm not a big fan of jumping with a 12 volt but it has been done. Does the engine sound free like its spinning without any drag? Hope to hear it started for you soon. Good luck. Chuck
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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it seams to turn a bit slow but even. I have had a lot of motors apart but never had this prob before have not worked much with 6v but hope to hear it start soon too  
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By pintoplumber - 12 Years Ago
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I couldn't start mine after both engine rebuilds. The distributor was off 180 degrees. My number one plug wire is closest to the firewall. I just rearranged them in the firing order from there.
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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Have you checked that the ignition switch is providing power to the coil in the "start" position?When you turn the key to the full right position to crank the engine it may not be providing power to the coil even though it does in the released position.Try a bypass from the battery to + terminal on the coil so that power is there when the engine starts to turn over.Just a suggestion.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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By the way the shots look GREAT. Nice job, would love to see it running. Chuck
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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thanks for the comments not sure if I will be able to work on it thin weekend. a lot of work has went in to this car it was not even a convt. to start with it was a sedan and a hard top and a convt. the convt. was really bad shape and was all cut apart and put back to gather from fire wall down is sedan and quarters and rear wheel houses were cut out and and welded back on and hard top doors . were used every thing off the convt. was removed and installed on the other car including all mounts and cross members from the convt. the other frame was bent but all fit back together well was done on a rotisserie and we made the floor and body mounts all was in really bad shape its been 3 years in the making and would like to hear it run before winter we live in northern MN and don't work on it much in the winter hope to finish next spring. I have painted and done a lot of body work as a hobby. will add a link to show some of the rough in work lol
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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Ryan couple things... looking at the pictures, it appears your vac advance is going to the Intake? Should be going to the "ported" connection on the carb. Maybe it is advancing the spark to far causing the engine to turn over slowly during start up.
Ryan (10/5/2013)
Also I assume you are using the passenger side #1 cylinder to time the engine, not the drivers side #1 cylinder (#5). Some have confused #5 for #1 because it is farther forward.
AWESOME VIDEO...
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By bird55 - 12 Years Ago
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You should be able to use a 12 v to jump with. JUST KEEP AN EYE ON IT and remove cables if you don't get something going.
Agree with the carb connection versus manifold connection.
Check timing AGAIN and by all means check the spark phg wiring again per the dist rotation. Happens to the best of us.
That thing looks great. What an enormous project. After all the labor of love on the body and running gear the yblock should be starting soon. Keep us updated. Someone really wanted a 54 convertible BAD.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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One other thing would be to run a jumper wire from the battery directly to the coil. That would bypass any switch or solenoid problems. Chuck
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (10/5/2013)
One other thing would be to run a jumper wire from the battery directly to the coil. That would bypass any switch or solenoid problems. Chuck
On the 6 volt system there is no bypass starting connection from the Solenoid to Coil.I did suggest the same idea with running a temporary connection between the Battery and coil because it is possible there is a problem with the ignition switch not proving 6 volts when the key is turned all the way to the "Start" position.One other question-with 6 volt + ground system is the coil hookup reversed?Does the + terminal on the coil go to the Distributor instead of the - as it would be on negative ground system?
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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WOOHOO got it started!!! compression was very low motor has been sitting put together for 2 years put some oil in 3 cyls and un hooked the vac advance turned starter with 12v and away it went!!!!!!!!! thanks for all the help will keep every one posted as the project go. another yblock firing again thanks again!!!! 
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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CONGRATS... Love the "cheering section" in the back ground.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Great going! The oil in the cylinders must have brought compression up on the dry rings. You, and your dad, must feel a lot of relief. Now you just have to get it together and up to Columbus next labor day so we can all enjoy it. Chuck
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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Congratulations on getting that thing running - good job.
Are you getting oil to the rocker arms? It was hard to tell in the video, and I think that smoke we saw is coming from the "curing" of the exhaust manifold paint right? Those rocker arms ought to be pretty wet from the oil running through the shaft, and you ought to be able to see small puddles of oil in the head near the exhaust manifold.
what is your oil pressure like?
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By Ryan - 12 Years Ago
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Yep oil dripping by rockers just can't see in video and smoke is from paint lol  all seams to be well with the motor now not going to run it much until we get some coolant in it
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