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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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I just rebuilt the two barrell Holley 2100 that's on my '55 Fairlane. I had pulled it off due to a leaking gasket and decided to rebuild it. I put it back on today and fired her up. She sounded great while warming up. I was waiting to ger her nice and warm so I could adjust the idle screw setting and idle mixture screws when she started to lope and run rough. I put some gas to it and it sounded like it was missing. I also heard a hissing/sucking sound. i checked the vacuum line and it was tight at both ends. Any ideas what may be causing the issue? Thanks.
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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When the engine is running spray carb cleaner around the base to see if you have a bad gasket leak.
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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Well, it doesn't seem to be sucking anything in at any of the gasket points. When I went out to restart it, the car ran even more rough than before and i had to keep gas on it to keep it running (low and rough idle). I noticed that it seemed to be pulling in a lot of air. I put about 25% choke on it and it instantly ran better, but still rough. So, too much air? Or not enough gas?
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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Is the carb the 3 bolt type 2 barrel
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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Yes, three to the intake manifold and three between the bowl assembly and throttle body.
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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I have the same carb on my car and I rebuilt it. I was having trouble so I called a carb place in florida. They told me that they put the wrong power valve in the kits but the person I called makes his own and he sold me one. He told me they mill off the lip that is around the nut so it is even from the nut to the threads.
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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Well, you've hit the limit on my carb knowledge. Is the powpower valve the one inside the carb (aka economizer valve)? Would it cause decreased performance as time goes on? If so, where can I get one that'll work?
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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Yes that is the valve I have to find the carb place number and will let you know. Try your old power valve see if it makes a difference.
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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here is the name and number
vintage speed 772 778 0809
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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Great, thanks! I had actually thought about putting the old valve back on. This carb is actually not the one that came with the car, but one that I bought a couple of weeks ago. It had been factory rebuilt by Ford, but way back in '68. I tore it down and replaced all the gaskets as they were falling apart. I also replaced the power and spark valves, but maybe should have left those alone.
I'll play with it some more and see what happens. Thanks again.
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By timmy4 - 12 Years Ago
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Try putting the old power valve and see if that helps
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By pegleg - 12 Years Ago
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This really sounds like a vacuum leak.......some where.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 12 Years Ago
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Some carb kits include both a power valve and a spark control valve. They both have the same thread. As I remember, the spark valve has a cap over the diaphragm opening, and maybe the cap is tall enough to prevent the bottom and center parts of the carb to bolt up tightly, causing the vacuum leak. It is easy to get the two mixed up when assembling the carb.
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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Don't know if this will post or not. Tried posting a while ago but it didn't take. Anyway, I put the old valve back in and it works fine now. I noticed that the power valve was loose when I took the carb apart, which would probably explain the progressively poor performance. Took it out on the highway and noticed surging at all speeds and on acceleration. Been reading about that and have found that surging indicates a lean condition. I find this very odd as the jets that are in it now are much bigger than the jets that I originally had. Plus, I am not hearing the popping sound out of the exhaust that was present before. I think I'm pretty much at the limit of what I can do. I don't know much about vacuum, but would a vacuum leak present surging like this?
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By Bruce Compton - 12 Years Ago
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Hi again: Did you check for warped gasket surfaces on the bottom of the main body and top of the throttle body as I suggested in your first post?? A vacuum leak there will allow the PV to stay open as well as allow extra air into the system just below the throttle plates. Bruce
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By ericsligar - 12 Years Ago
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I haven't checked that yet as I have not torn it down that far again. I am going to re-jet it when the new jets come in and put a different float (one that I have checked for accuracy) in. I'll check it then. I am thinking my vacuum leak may be the connection from the distributor advance line to the carb. I listened to the carb with a piece of fuel line and heard the most noise there. I couldn't find any obvious splits or problems, but the line is pretty well aged and looks like it may be original to the car. Have a new one coming. I have noticed small amounts of fuel leaking around all the gaskets. Don't know if I just didn't tighten it down enough or what.
One of these days I'm going to figure this out...
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By Ted - 12 Years Ago
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If you're going to have the carburetor pulled completely down checking for warpage at the base plate, you might also check that the main body surface where the metering block connects is not warped or pulled forward at the four corners. Also check that the fuel discharge boosters are tight within the main body. Any of these conditions will make for a leaner running condition.
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By The Horvaths - 12 Years Ago
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As would a perforated diaphragm at the distributor.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 12 Years Ago
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Four bolt metering block on a 3 bolt 2 barrel Holley/Ford?
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By Y block Billy - 12 Years Ago
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I normally use a nice flat sharpening stone and run it over any surfaces I want to make sure are flat, stones dont lie and will show any high spots. I have a pile of them for different purposes. I dont get stoned (nowadays) but boy do I do a lot of stoning!
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By Ted - 12 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (11/4/2013)
Four bolt metering block on a 3 bolt 2 barrel Holley/Ford?John. Thanks for catching that. A bit of brain fade on my part as I was thinking on the lines of a model 2300 Holley, not the 2100 series. Some of what I said fits but definitely not all of it.
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By Lyon46 - 12 Years Ago
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That 2100 is a 1954 use only on the Y-Block. Sounds like either a leaking power valve gasket (use a nylon, not cardboard) or the base to bowl gasket (holds vacuum around the power vavle) and is hard to see on the engine.
welding and grinding, welding and grinding.........oh my....
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