Thermostat Bypass Plug


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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
What end of the bypass hose should the plug be? On the agenda for the next week. 56 Bird
By carl - 12 Years Ago
paul2748 (12/25/2013)
What end of the bypass hose should the plug be? On the agenda for the next week. 56 Bird
I put mine in on the radiator end but shouldnt make any difference .The engine temp never runs hot in traffic like it did before i added the brass plug with a 3/8 hole drilled in it Carl
By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
Carl - did you mean 3/16?

Thanks
By Ted - 12 Years Ago

It will make no difference which end of the bypass hose the restrictor is placed. Water flow starts at the water pump side so that would be the logical choice if you had to pick one end over the other. And Carl did mean a 3/16" or smaller hole.

By carl - 12 Years Ago
paul2748 (12/26/2013)
Carl - did you mean 3/16?

Thanks
Sorry, i did drill a 3/16 hole not 3/8,finger got ahead of my brain Carl
By vntgtrk - 12 Years Ago
this hose is like my, um, never mind!!! (real short so I can't see it making a difference)
By RodL - 12 Years Ago
Hey guys, I've just found this thread, I've got my motor out for a rebuild and would like to know the reasoning behind putting the restrictor in the bypass. I don't seem to be able to find the original question. RodL
By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
The restriction forces more coolant through the rad rather than allowing it(hot uncooled coolant)to circulate back into the motor-therefore it should run cooler.You can't completely plug the bypass hose but that restrictor will allow enough coolant through with the 3/16 hole.
By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
Whoa, putting the plug in the bypass hose is only part of the equation. You may want to consider using a modified Robert Shaw thermostat (or Mr. Gasket equivalent) also.

Here is a link to a past thread on the subject... http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic83884.aspx
By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
A friend of mine closed up the by pass completely and t didn't seem to have any adverse effects. He has driven the car all over the US without any problems. Him, I and another went from the east coast to the west coast and back w/o any heating problems. I'll bet he has put on 40,000 miles on his Yblock

oldcarmark (12/27/2013)
You can't completely plug the bypass hose but that restrictor will allow enough coolant through with the 3/16 hole.
By yblock - 12 Years Ago
RodL (12/27/2013)
Hey guys, I've just found this thread, I've got my motor out for a rebuild and would like to know the reasoning behind putting the restrictor in the bypass. I don't seem to be able to find the original question. RodL


leav it the way henry made it,go to googel and look upcooling system design. it is my opinion you will wind up with pump cavitation and damage a fresh engine.airiated water will not register temp acuately the by pase is a necesary part of the cooling system and keeping the engine at a constant temp. just my take .
By ian57tbird - 12 Years Ago
There is enough Yblock experience here to say it works, but personally I think it is a modification of last resort. Restricting the bypass needs to be compensated for by drilling the thermostat, which will increase engine warm up time. With a 3/16 hole it would not flow enough to act as an effective bypass any more and would only serve to bleed air from the pump. I think it would be best NOT to block it completely.
By RodL - 12 Years Ago
Hey guys, thanks for all the input. I never had any problem before with the old motor, and I'm only doing a mild upgrade - 272 to 292 +.060 bore, mild cam, open up the chambers a bit on '57 heads to make it breathe easier. Plus a few other goodies - but I don't want to steal this thread Smile I thought I would put a 5 blade fan on it though, for a bit of insurance.
By Ted - 12 Years Ago
The bypass does require some kind of hole in it to simply remove the air from the top of the timing cover. Without that hole, there is an initial overheating that is the result of an 'air lock' that takes place until the water flow can establish itself through that up and down passage within the timing cover. I do run the Y test engine on the dyno without the bypass hose simply to expedite manifold changes but have to work the throttle up and down initially to get that air lock taken care of. As little as a 1/16" hole is all that's required but the larger sized holes (3/16") in the cars are recommended simply so that the hole itself does not get plugged with debris.
By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
Ted, I wonder if you could install a small bleeder valve on the timing cover to vent air simplify your life preping for Dyno runs. What made me think of this is I have a '89 Super Coupe and there is a tube with a plug near the Supercharger that you remove when refilling the coolant to vent air.

Just a thought...
By yblock - 12 Years Ago
re bleading air,coment on super coup,similer to 97 mustang,rads are low in relation to the top of cylender heads, which make filling dificult plus ther is extensive aluminum that will be eroded with air in the system. dynoes are a great tool for hp tests,any dynoes i have witnesed have huge radiators and or water tower and not very acurate to rate a cooling system in a car. when 1 spends the $ for alumn heads and intake the cavitation and air bubles that form will create damage down the road. another isue is running the engine cold is hard on fuel,the lube oil is slow to warm and the detergent has dificulty doing its job,exsesive oil pressure and delution from unberned fuel. as well as poor performance. seems the wory of over heating is over stated 210 with any presure cap over 10ps is ideal, even higher temp ar fine as long as it does not boil. with anty freze and pressure cap of 15 psi if you have temps over 230 you have diferent isues causing the prob. i notised a large % of the 2x4 intakes are junk do to erosion,i have 1 that is ok but rejected 4 listed on ebay as water pasegs wher detroyed. my 2011 eco boost ford runs all day towing a 7500pounr 5th at engine temp over 200 , it to has alum heads ,and the waterpump has a bypass hose. moveing coolent out of the engine before the therm openes makes no sence,if ther is a isue creating over heat
(pluged rad leaking head gask.poor air flow re mising shrouds etce,to smal a fan) you will have over heating even if you throw away the stat,it will just take a bit longer. and remember ,water gauges and therms need air free water to work corectly. some will say what a load of horse ----.but it is my opinionand learning from40years of heavey eque,and hotrods
By Ted - 12 Years Ago
The Master Cylinder (12/30/2013)
Ted, I wonder if you could install a small bleeder valve on the timing cover to vent air to simplify your life preping for Dyno runs. ...

The amount of time saved in not dealing with the bypass hose on the dyno mule more than outweighs any disadvantages that results from running without it. At this point, I’ve learned to live without the bypass hose or a bleeder valve on the dyno mule as I can initially rev the engine a few times and clear the air lock enough that water flow is established after refilling the engine with coolant. Not having a thermostat at the intake makes this quite doable. Once the water flow is established, there’s no issue with coolant circulation until the water is drained again and then refilled.

.

Here are a couple of pictures showing the bleeder valve setup being used on the 2009 Engine Masters Challenge entry. While this worked for removing the air from the timing cover and water pump, it was frowned upon at the EMC simply due to it being something that had to be cleaned up prior to starting up the engine.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/9dc0ad7a-4310-417e-878d-157c.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/b96156ac-ec1d-4dbf-9128-23cb.jpg

.

For the 2010 EMC entry, I simply plumbed a small bypass hose (#3 AN) from the electric water pump to the thermostat housing which made the system a self-priming affair after that. No mess, no fuss. Here’s a picture of that particular bypass hose which worked quite well.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/8fd6045c-290e-4758-a49c-e4b3.jpg
By Glen Henderson - 12 Years Ago
I have one of Ted's elec pumps (SN # 002) on my 337" engine. The small bypass hose works fine, no problems keeping the engine cool as long as I remember to turn the fan on after a run.
By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
HAH!! Should have known you guy's would be way ahead of me... Smooooth
By yblock - 12 Years Ago
verry nice setup,i certenly ws not trying to be criticaal of the dyno as never saw it,just trying to get a point of vew to in car so caled over heating. wish i lived closer would have my spare 292 dynoed ther. cliff