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On the brakes issue... the 55/56 Fords (as did a bunch of other 50s Fords) have an ECCENTRIC adjuster stud at the top of each backing plate. As you know, these brakes are not self-adjusting. You have to loosen the large nut at the top of the backing plate on the wheel cylinder side. Then you can turn the eccentric to make sure the top of your shoes are striking the drum at the same time as your lower part of your shoes (adjusted by the star wheel). That could be your problem there.
You can also test your brakes by putting the front end up on stands and then having a friend spin a tire at a time. Press the pedal and see how far you have to go with it until you get full engagement. It isn't scientific I know but it won't hurt to see where you are at. You can do this with the rear as well but you know that most of your stopping power is going to come from the front.
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" 
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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maybe I'll just go buy this!  I have up for sale a 1970 307 V8 Chevelle Malibu. This car is in decent shape and is a really good runner. It has had a recent tune up that involved replacing the spark plugs, new radiator, oil change and cleaning and sealing of the gas tank. This car has also had new coil springs put on in the back. This car was a hard top that someone cut the top off of. So it currently does not have a roof. Whoever chopped the top did what I would call a good job, as they left plenty of metal to put a new roof on, and a new roof is a fairly easy to find part that is also not overly expensive. This would be a really cool father son project or you could simply drive it as is and have a fun sunday cruiser. Also, you could chop it further and make a really cool custom. This car was also a four door that was converted into a two door, but the driver's side door is also fixed shut so I would call it a straight up one door. As for rust, the body panels have been patched in and primed, they could use a little finish work to be perfect but look pretty good. The frame and floors seem solid enough. This car really turns heads and gets lots of thumbs up. This would be a great project for anyone who wants a cool low budget Chevelle. Email me with your phone number and any questions you may have and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. $2000 obo Thanks, Peter
Also I might be interested in trading for a running vehicle, such as a truck, 4x4, or vw bug or van, I'm open to a lot of cars, let me know what you have. 
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Thanks Daniel!! That is a new path of hope for the brakes...I'd heard people talk about "cams" and "adjusters" but I was misunderstanding.... it was never as clear as you put it. I'll check into this.
Nate - Madison, Wisconsin 56 Ford Customline Sedan
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For a few weeks I gave up my idea...but I've found myself daydreaming again. I found this story today about a 51 Buick that went from 4 door to roadster. I'm using this thread as my collection of ideas. No matter what eventually happens, hopefully this thread will be useful for the next 15 year-old trapped in a 35 year-old body who wants to cut the roof of his 4-door car. http://www.thanks2frank.com/featured%20cars%2051%20buick%20kevin%20mayabb.html
Nate - Madison, Wisconsin 56 Ford Customline Sedan
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Daniel: Thanks for the info re the eccentric adjusters. I've got the same problem as Nate with his 1956 brakes. The manual brakes on my 57 car are like stepping on stone. And braking is scary in city traffic. I've suspected poor quality linings, but there may be more to it than I was aware.
Paul
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Paul, if you have any succes with the cam adjuster, please let me know...a nice write-up post with detailed description on how you made the adjustment and determined it was the appropriate position would be great, and future readers would probably appreciate it! If I get to it, I'll do the same, but haven't had time yet.
Nate - Madison, Wisconsin 56 Ford Customline Sedan
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