I recently purchased a T10, Passenger Bellhousing and a Harvey Aluminum Flywheel that came off a 292 Y Block in a running car.  The T10 Looks good and is the easy part, as is the bellhousing. I cant post pictures here for some reason, but I wanted to know if the Harvey flywheel was for race applications only?  I had planned to use it, just finding a good Pressure plate and clutch to put between it and the T10, but wasnt sure the origins of the flywheel and if its even streetable or suggested to be used that way.  Would love any suggestions for a reasonable priced flywheel to use just in case and alternative pressure plate/clutch choices.  Just a driver, nothing fire breathing.

I lived by the Harvey Aluminum Plant in So Cal and knew a few guys who worked there. They cast an unbelievable amount of stuff, Rods, Pistons,  waterpump housings: etc. Their castings were bought by many "manufacturers" of race products McGurk, Wilcap, etc and then machined by them to fit the appropriate engine. Cast Aluminum flywheels are for the most part outlawed by racing associations and they do come apart especially with age. The key to using one is the have the steel lining in very good condition making sure the attaching rivets are well below the surface. The other thing is also make sure the starter ring gear has at least 3 attaching points to the aluminum wheel. The gear is first heated up and then shrunk onto the aluminum. This was normally done on a mill so that the 2 different materials could be drilled.  From my experience they don't like to have the clutch slipped very much. (heat) I also would dowel the flywheel to the crank in 3 places; 3/8" dowels work the best as the ones I used always seemed to loosen up over time. Billet aluminum ones were always better.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

DryLakesRacer's closing information bears repeating.  For street use, consider using a stock weight flywheel rather than a light weight aluminum unit.  The heavier the vehicle, the more invaluable this suggestion becomes.

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Understood about regular duty parts for the street.  One of those, well I have it, and its good, why not use it.  Just do not want it to come apart down the road so to speak. Its going in a 32 Ford Phaeton, so its not a heavy car. I know Mummert is the expert on Y blocks, but do you have any suggestions on best place to get a flywheel, pressure plate and clutch combo?

Mummert has a billet steel flywheel.  I don't know if there is any other option.  I would only go with new because I have not seen a good used Y-block flywheel.  They're always cracked.  You can surface them to make them look pretty again but the cracks are still there.



Lawrenceville, GA

I'd agree with Charlie on this. Remember the newest factory cast iron flywheels are at least 50 years old. God knows how many miles or what kind of use they've had. If one cracks and comes apart the damage to your car could be expensive at best or lethal at worst. Either do what Dry Lakes recommends or grab one of Mummerts wheels. 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I believe the Mummert Flywheel will be the way to go.  One thing that crossed my mind though. Do I have any thing to worry about in changing the engine over from a Automatic to a T10 in regards to the back of the crankshaft? Do I have to clearance anything?

Just remember to install a pilot bushing !  You"ll need new bolts for the flywheel, longer than the automatic. After you install and torque the wheel, spin the crank by hand and be sure all the bolts clear the block. Don't ask how I found that out!  


Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I would stick with whatever Mummert tells me I need lol.