As Frank mentions, the baffle wasn't Ford's idea, just an afermarket thing that obviously doesn't work.

And thanks to all for the replies.  Unfortunately I initially did look at a stock water pump and could see some logic in the baffle in it reducing the clearance behind the impellor and potentially helping the flow.  After re-examining the pump as per Frank's suggestion, I can see that the pump works differently than I originally thought.  And as suggested, I went over to the Casco site and that definitely clears up that question.  Don’t use the baffle!  I recently put a T-Bird engine together and now feel much better about it not having a baffle.  I’m surprised that the baffle is still being listed in some of the various T-Bird parts manufacturers catalogs based on some of the comments about it.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Jeezes must be old age!!  I forgot about the shroud, most of the Tbird suppilers have a lower rad shourd, seems to also help the air flow direction.   Sorry did I did not mention that before.  

Eddie

lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Ted:

I have an opinion as to why the aftermarket T-Bird guys are still trying to sell the baffles.  They probably had a jillion of them stamped out when one of them first came up with the idea, so they have almost a jillion left to try to sell.  I never used one in either of my Birds, with a good radiator they always cooled fine.  I have always used the factory fan shrouds in them.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

whats the address for that casco site??????? just wanna take a peak. Is that baffle also used on the truck engines?????

64,

       No, only place it fits is on the Bird, there's a spacer between the water pump and the timing cover about an inch or so thick. The initial purpose was to move the standard water pump forward, toward the radiator, to line up with the pulleys on the 'Bird. That way they could continue to use a Pass car water pump, together with the truck timing cover, to accomodate a front mount, and clear the steering and suspension. I suspect that when people found out the 'Birds ran warmer than the cars, and looked for differences, that's the first thing they saw. So that must be the problem!! Has the same amount of science behind it as the global warming theorys. Adding to what John said, those are cheap to make & can be sold for a lot, so they're  very profitable. If you spent a $100 or whatever on a piece of tin, you'd convince yourself it worked too. So the rumour continues, nobody's about to tell the next guy he screwed up, or got screwed. So they must work! 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Re the aftermarket T-bird fiberglass shroud:



I have one, but took it out since the VAST majority of my driving is at highway speed.

I think it may actually limit maximum airflow through the radiator, and when the motor is pushed hard on long, high speed interstate trips, it likely runs hotter. If I moved to the city and had to spent a lot of time idling in traffic, I would consider reinstalling it since it allows the fan to pull more air. (If someone wants to try one, I would sell mine).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I agree with John the dumb baffles are probably still around due to "shelf inertia" - and none of the outifts wants to be left holding the last known supply of them.

The T-Bird fan shroud doesn't cover the whole rad surface but it does conform to one principle I know of - the fan tips fit pretty closely to the circular opening. It is a big deal for fan efficiency to block the air that gets flung off radially when the blade tip is "open". The closer the fit of the tip to the shroud the more efficient the blades are at moving air out of the housing.

I recently reassembled the top end of my outfit and held a little "hot idle burn-down" test last night while watching with infared temp probe. I've got one of the Stewart style 1-1/2 inch opening 160° thermostats in there and the rest is stock - standard bird pulley and pump (for now). The quickest way to drive the temp up - and I mean immediately the probe shows a change - is to move the distributor vacuum source to the "ported" opening (retards to the initial advance setting of 10°-12°). Move it back to manifold vacuum and the temp starts dropping immediately - it sits there with 20" Hg and the water outlet checked 175°-177° with inlet air in front of the rad at 85°/90°. With the ported vacuum source the vacuum went to 16" and water temp went over 185°-190° right away. The driver side exhaust manifold had a big change too - that you would expect with retarding the timing. Full vacuum source - 400°F - ported - 550° - it makes me think that retarded timing is a big issue for a lot of the heating troubles I hear about. There seems to be "double whammy" - because the underhood air temp gets a big jump from the exhaust heating.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I guess I am the only guy who has the baffle plate on his T Bird. I replaced the fan with a six blade, new waterpump and added the baffle over ten years ago along with an 180 degree thermostat and a full radiator shroud. After that, no more overheating, period. It could have been just a bad pump but it was a very simple install as I was already there.

I forgot - mine does have the 6 blade fan too. Definitely more air flow at idle than the original three blade.

Pete - what does your timing light show at idle? Are you using manifold vacuum or ported?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

hey frank

you stick to your guns with the foundry you know what works they should just make them i used to love it when the holden guys would come in  water thumping away telling me they put in a new thermostat cause the old one was stuck & it was still doing it i used to tell them the engine was shot i was so cruel but thats what happens when you own a g.m.

on the global warming front in geelong tomorrow (thurs) & friday temps will be 38 & 39 dont think im doing to much detailing so much for it being autumn.

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover