So what do I do when the oil pressure on my LYB hits 200 pounds and causes my oil filter to lose its seal. Happened this morning when first fired up and was cold.
On previous cold engine start ups the oil pressure would hit 160 for about 30 seconds or so before settleing back to around 60 pounds.
Its gotta be a problem with the check ball valve ? Is there something I can do to repair it?
Oldmics

I've never had one peak like that.  The bypass is a spring-loaded ball check, the only way you'd get that high is if there was an obstruction in the bypass line.  I'd pull the pump and see if there's sludge build up in the bypass.  It's easy to do on a Y as the oil pump is outside the pan.  You can also rebuild the oil pump while you're at it.  

Thanks for the input.
Its all new with maybe 2 miles on the engine.
Suggestions????

Oldmics

Just as an aside, I had one y that always ran a bit high, especially cold. Not 160 high. The internal bypass was partially blocked by the gasket. So when the ball check valve released, the full volume couldn't bypass. Since you were already getting a spike, might be worth a look while its out. Since it's all new, and mine was a new pump that came that way.....

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

There's definitely something wrong if it's new and its doing this.  I'd go with what Miker said.  Remove the pump and look for obstructions.  

Keep in mind old oil can break down and become asphalt.  Yes - asphalt.  It's the heavy fraction of oil during the refining process, and old oil formulations had a wee bit of asphalt in them.  On oil-fired electrical power generation boilers, the asphalt sticks to the boiler tubes and has to be manually chipped off.  I've encountered some asphalt in the Y blocks I've torn apart; if a chunk of this hard sludge was in your lubrication circuit prior to re-assembly, it could be causing a problem like you describe.  Let's hope it's what Miker says.  

My vote goes to the oil relief valve in the oil pump sticking.  Measuring the bore and piston clearance for the relief valve before actually doing any work to it might shed some light on the problem.  In this case, I’d suggest a light hone within the oil pump relief valve hole to insure no burrs or simply too small for the piston.

I understand your concern though for the high spike in oil pressure.  I have a non-oil relief valve oil pump in my 390 which has the oil pressure at 160 psi when cold.  For that engine I use a Wix racing filter just to insure that the filter stays intact.  That oil pump was originally donated to the cause and was an old 427 pump that was designed to be used with a relief valve in the block.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

first the oil pump does not have a ball,it has a piston with a small endto hold it in the corect position stoped. a posibility that piston is in backwerds,or is stuck in the bore,unless you ar in _40 or gear oil in the base the presur should not go over 130ish.pices of valve seal can work ther way into the pump and jame the relief,had a 352 fe blow the filter seal as that isue.

All fixed.
70 pounds at idle when cold
Piston was hanging up on a burr in the orifice.
N.O.S. old school Melling pump. Guess things went wrong in the old days also.
Thanks for all the input.

Oldmics