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Where is the condensation coming from?

Posted By Daniel Jessup 10 Years Ago
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Daniel Jessup
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When I disassembled my pcv setup on the 292 Y block, I noticed the tube (metal and rubber - I had robbed a setup off of an early 60's truck), I noticed there was quite a bit of condensation/water droplets in the tube and the PCV valve. I assume this is not normal of course and could this be because the engine is running too cool or not being run long enough?

Further, the valve covers were very clean inside but the valley pan had some "greenish" film on the inside of the sheetmetal that is exposed to the block. I don't have an antifreeze leak anywhere that I can see, and there is no green or any discoloration of the oil anywhere. The oil pan was normal. Any ideas?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


The Master Cylinder
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Daniel Jessup (4/24/2015)
When I disassembled my pcv setup on the 292 Y block, I noticed the tube (metal and rubber - I had robbed a setup off of an early 60's truck), I noticed there was quite a bit of condensation/water droplets in the tube and the PCV valve. I assume this is not normal of course and could this be because the engine is running too cool or not being run long enough?



Yes, either too cool and yes not being run/warmed up enough. Water is a byproduct of combustion. If the engine is running too cool or not warmed up enough to vaporize the moisture it will collect and condense in the engine.



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Posted 10 Years Ago
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Good to see you posting on the Forum "Master Cylinder'.  You've been missed!  Smile


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NoShortcuts (4/24/2015)
Good to see you posting on the Forum "Master Cylinder'.  You've been missed!  Smile


Thanks for that. It's REALLY NICE to be here. The old pump backfired and now has a constant miss...  Atrial Fibrillation. Doc has me on all kinds of DRUGS, including RAT POISON (Wafarin). What Fun!!



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62bigwindow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Glad to hear your on the mend. My mother has the same thing and she just had a heart ablation done to try to control her afib. Back to subject, we had an early 70's ford truck that did the same thing. It hardly was driven more than 2 miles round per round trip to haul wood. It condesated so bad at times there would be water on the dipstick.

Durham Missouri
miker
Posted 10 Years Ago
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In the late 60's, with a road draft tube, I was out of school for Christmas break, colder than usual, but above freezing. I'd been puttering around town instead of making the 20 mile highway drive to school. I pulled the valve covers to set the valves, and found them full of a watery oil foam. While panic was setting in, Dad came home and said. "Typical around town. Just wipe them out and drive 20 miles up the freeway and back". I did as I was told (for once), got back, pulled the covers, and they were clean. PCV systems are better, but you do need some heat in the motor to get the water out.

I was told years ago the first PCV systems were put on milk delivery trucks, as they never got enough speed up to make the draft tube work. Don't know if that's true, but it's a good story.

Good to see you back, MC.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
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Posted 10 Years Ago
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water vapere in engine is caused by poor circulation ,posibly not enough air in,if pcv valve is in the valley cover at the rear,you need circulation from both valve covers. on my 57ranchero  i have pcv driver side rearhead,useing the bolt hole that goes into pushrod hole,i left the old road draft assbly in place,as well as a clean filler cap on right front oil tube,this way ther is circulation from the base as well as right front of valley cover. i live in surrey bc with lots of moisture, and rune the 292 to and from coffe etc with few good long runs,except to blain wa for gas. no condensation at all.
 had isues with the 302 in my 32ford when i had a poor breather on the oil filler and pcv on oposit valve cover.
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What temp are you running on your thermostat? I don't know, but don't Y-blocks need a little more heat to keep the sludge down and reduce the condensate on short runs? It just seems like that's what I'm picking up from different posts. Just asking? 
lovefordgalaxie
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Just as a comparison:
I run a Robertshaw 160 T-Stat (engine takes longer to fully warm, but stays at 180 degrees when it was before at 210 plus with a Stant 180 T-Stat (remember, the car runs in Brazil, and here is hot AND humid. 
My car has no PCV, is driven mostly on town with a occasional highway pull, and there is zero condensation anywhere.

Maybe it's too much alcohol on your gasoline. From experience of being using gasoline mixed with alcohol for all my life (since 1977 here) if the proportion goes above 25% alcohol, the engine will be full of condensation when used on short trips around town. No matter the car.
Alcohol used with gasoline is hydrated, meaning it has water molecules within. Our alcohol here comes from sugar cane, I don't know if the alcohol being used in the United States is from cane, but I doubt so. What means even more water

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec
PF Arcand
Posted 10 Years Ago
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As mentioned, proper air intake is required for engine circulation. If the only air intake is thru the oil filler cap screen, it can often be plugged up with dirt & oil residue, hence no proper ventilation..   


Paul


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