Hello,
I am in the process of getting my 59 Galaxie road-worthy after 20 plus years of inactivity. I am having difficulty removing the rear drums. I did back off the self-adjusters but the inner portion of the drum seems to be rusted to the axle flange. Any ideas? I have been prying and tapping away.
Just in case- is there a replacement drum out there? Seems to be an odd ball size for some reason.
Thanks,
Dave

Dave;
I just finished replacing 57 wagon rear brakes and I think 57-59 are the same. My shoes are 2" wide and there are replacement shoes and drums available, but the drums are not cheap...about $125 each. Make sure you have the wheel adjusters backed all the off until they stop. Also, I found a couple of flat "keepers" on the wheel studs that hold the drum on. There were 2 on each side and they had to be unscrewed off the studs before the drum would slide off. Lastly, I would try some "PB Blaster" on the axle flange and let it soak for a while. Then try tapping with a heavy hammer and hopefully they will come off.
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

They will come off one way, or another. When my cousin, her husband and I went to bring my parts car back from Nebraska the right rear drum was frozen solid, making it very difficult for our underpowered winch to roll the beast onto the trailer. We ended up having to break the brake drum into pieces to remove it. After it was gone, things rolled a bit easier. Hope you don't have to go that far to remove them. -Dave

A lot of auto parts stores have a tool lending program. See if you can find a brake drum puller. Use that, solvent, a hammer, and patience and it should come off. Make sure the brake adjustment is backed off if you can get it to turn. Chuck


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Parking brake disengaged?



Lawrenceville, GA

Good point Charlie !   Applying some heat to the drum just off the axle might work also. Just don't get carried away with it?


Paul

I always heat the drum with an acetylene torch. Usually pops loose then. May have to let it cool and re heat again. Never had a problem over heating one.  

slum lord is on the right track. heat the aria around the axel hub. reason is drums are usualey made with a punch where they slid on the axel hub and when you use a puller the drum digs into the axel. just heat the aria at the axel hub,cosentrate on the thin portion of the drumnear the axel. most of the time a propane torch will work. if this fails drill small hoeis around the drum as close to the axel hub,then tapthe hole with botome tap(1/4 coarse screw ina capscrew 1 io each side bit of heat and it should move. Ihave never had any luck pulling on the outer part os the drum,heat is the best tool(and a bit of luck) 

Some of the import cars, I think mostly from Europe, have a couple threaded holes in next to the axle. You put a small bolt in them and screw them down working side to side. That's one import idea that made sense to mechanics. Chuck


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire