Can anyone recommend a good engine oil sludge removal product?

I have seen heavily sludged engines where a flush was run through them and then the oil screen stopped up as a result.  The engine then starved for oil and internal damage resulted.
 
Frequent oil changes while using a good quality detergent oil is what I recommend.  It also helps that the engine is brought up to operating temperatures consistently and not performing short hop duty where the oil does not get hot enough to get rid of built up condensation.  While a lower viscosity oil will circulate more freely within an engine, always remember that any engine with a flat tappet camshaft (Y’s included) requires an oil with at least 30W in the viscosity classification.  It’s these oils that have enough shear strength in which to help the lifters rotate on the lobes.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I am no expert but I have to agree Ted big time , no good will come out of flushing crud down into the pan. I am 65 years old and remember in the old day guys would flush engines with kerosene and almost without fail soon after the engine would knock . The junk getting washed down into the pan should just stay where it is . Again like Ted said change the oil frequently to avoid the sludge. I think the oils we have now are better than the old days and do not gunk up as bad. Just my two cents 

I know that is a very major problem. I have done this with old Tractors, and a couple of Y-Blocks, and yes it is a lot of work.
I pull the rockers covers, valley cover and scrap and Vacuum,that area very good, and then blow that area with an air gun.Then wash it out with diesel or solvent WITH oil, really good. Then after it has drained for a while, pull the pan, and clean the screen and pan, very good. Then put GOOD oil and new filter, pull the spark plugs, give the cylinders a good shot of oil, and then roll the engine over, until you have oil pressure, then start the engine.  Yes I know not very body will agree. But that is the way I have done it with some of the old Tractors that I find.

Bob

Further, the engines crankcase ventilation is undoubtedly completely plugged. The crankcase air intake is thru the oil filler cap screen. Clean it well or replace it. And if the engine is equipped with a road draft canister setup (low, on the drivers side of the block) remove the canister & replace the filter that should be in there. However, some engines have a draft tube, without canister, that goes down the drivers side at the back of the block. Hopefully it's not plugged up..  


Paul

Had the vacuum modulator fail on the transmission and actually suck ATF into the motor. The smoke was so bad I probably killed every mosquito in a 3 county area, and thought I had grenaded the motor-BUT it desludged the motor, but had to pull EVERYTHING to clean again.
Worked well for cleaning but not recommended.
It's been a while but every time I drive it now still wonder how much damage was done to the cam and lifters, and I hear ghost knocks and pings in my sleep.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC