The path to the pictures was a hyperlink in the original post. 
The first clue that there was a hyperlink embedded within the post was the underlining of some of the text.  That particular piece of text was also a different size and text format from the remaining text which was also a standout clue that something special was going on at that point.  Simply placing the cursor over the underlined text allowed me to see the actual link that was residing within the text letting me know that it might not be spam.  Clicking on that underlined text takes you to the pictures.
 
Here’s the texted hyperlink from the original post.
55 Crown Victoria

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

  Where piz?
Rowen

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Definantly check the points and point gap before you try and fire it. The points are known to have a slight film of corrosion after sitting awhile. Once you know the points are making contact, I'd also check the coil for spark. Everything everyone else said, Ditto !.  Good Luck 

Good news, after letting the oil do it's work, it took only some stiff pressure to rotate the engine over. Once the battery arrives I'll try cranking her with the starter, but it's a promising start.

Thanks so much for all your replies, I really appreciate it. I'll be keeping my laptop handy in the garage. 

Saw the pictures of the car.  Looks like a keeper.
 
Definitely change the oil filter at this point.  It has a quart of old oil in it.  It will be okay to initially crank up the engine with only five quarts of oil as dropping that oil and refreshing it and the filter again once the engine has run for awhile would be a good idea.
 
Assuming the transmission is in neutral, the engine does need to turn over by hand before attempting to start it.  A 13/16” socket on a break-over handle is sufficient for this assuming no seized pistons.  Don’t be afraid to put some serious pressure on the damper bolt to get the engine to either break free or turn over.  If there’s no crankshaft movement, then try putting air on each cylinder and pressuring that oil forcing it around the rings.  This trick does free up some of those engines that are only lightly seized.
 
Once you do get the engine to turn over freely by hand, then use the starter to spin the engine with the spark plugs out.  This will help to prelube engine internals as well as pull fuel up to the carburetor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hex drive for oil pump shaft is 1/4". Make sure you turn CCW when priming.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Give the base of the distributor a soaking with a penetrating oil. Let it set a few days and hope for the best.


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

First you need to be able to turn the motor over. As to the dizzy, it's a hex drive, and as you pull the dizzy, it will rotate. I can't remember the drive size (5/16"?). But someone will chime in on that procedure. The oil pump runs counterclockwise.

It's not uncommon for the dizzy to be stuck, and not rotate or pull out. I've never had that happen, so I'll let the experts chime in on that, too.

If it isn't going well, buy more beer, and pull the hood. Makes access a lot easier, and saves the back of your head.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Where are you located? If you put your city and state in the tag line you may find that one of our members is near you and could help out.


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire