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PF Arcand
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The feedback to the indicator light might be a result of poor grounds, or not, but check all body to engine & chassis grounds just to be sure.. no cost just time.
Paul
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57RancheroJim
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That was one of my first thoughts, checked a half dozen times, replaced all grounds etc, no luck.. I'm baffled, but since it doesn't cause any problems I'll just live with it..
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Half-dude
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: / I don't even know where all the grounds are..
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57RancheroJim
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The problem is there aren't many, usually just two, battery to block, block to body. I always add extra to body and frame. Then all the components like voltage regulator, lights, accessories, gauges etc depend on a good body ground.
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Half-dude
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Doesn't the regulator ground through the case?
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57RancheroJim
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Half-dude (10/27/2016)
Doesn't the regulator ground through the case? Yes, case is grounded to body and through wire to generator, but I'm not sure how that relates as yours is 6V positive ground. Sorry, it's been too long ago I worked on positive grounds
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chiggerfarmer
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About 30 years ago I had a 54 that did that very thing. Gen light would come on very dim, increasing with engine speed. The car also had hard starting problems and since I suffered from the short patience of youth and wished it to start like new cars, I changed to 12V but instead of alternator I used 12V generator. It cured starting problem and worked fine but still had the odd generator indicator light problem. I sold the car to a gentleman that wanted it original and changed everything back to 6V positive ground. When I asked about the starting problem, he said that he found a malfunctioning ignition switch, and when he replaced it there was no more starting problem or generator light problem. Now, I am merely telling the story for what it's worth, but I wondered if maybe there could be truth there? Could an electrical path form inside a worn ignition switch that allowed this to happen?
Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas
When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn! 
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Half-dude
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Dang, now I love stories like that. For what I know the ignition switch is still original in my car like most things. Wouldn't be surmised if it's work over 60 years. My car also has a worn neutral safety switch gotta keep shifting into neutral and fiddle with the shifter to get her to start.
Wish I knew more about electrical systems, I have no idea if the ignition switch could do that. Anyone else know? Weird that it'd cause hard starts. Think it maybe limits the power to the plugs if its worn?
Really wish I had an Ammeter for the car but it's hard to find one that goes down to 6v. Plus not sure if I know how to hook it up.
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PF Arcand
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Re the ammeter mentioned, they are common at swap meets, but It measures current, not Voltage.
Paul
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Half-dude
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So I'm going to my first car show of the year this weekend, it's going to be in the evening and dark when I'm driving back.
I would love to have something to try to try and get this issue fixed. What is exactly happening electronically/mechanically that makes the GEN light come on? If I understood the operation I would better be able to troubleshoot things. It doesn't come on in a binary way off one minute on the next. It very very slowly illuminates so soon you don't even realize till it's bright and concerning. That's one of the irritating things about it because when you're expecting it you find yourself paranoid and trying to check the guage because the illumination of the rest of the cluster bleeds through to the gen light and makes it LOOK illuminate so I keep turning my lights off momentarily to check if it's on.
Does this gauge ultimately connect to somewhere on the generator itself, the regulator box, or the battery side of the solenoid?
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