I'll be 71 in a few weeks myself.  LOL  I sure hope I can isolate the problem before having to remove the seat assembly.  I was planning on installing my new engine, T-5, shifter, and new carpet all at one time, but this electrical gremlin may change the sequence of everything.  I need to get the car inspected to keep from having to pay late fees for the renewal on license plates.  I have pulled some wire to replace a couple of sections, and hopefully when the new light assemblies arrive from Larry's Thunderbird I can isolate the problem or fix it at that time.  The next thing will be pulling the steering wheel and turn signal assembly.  Joe-JDC

JDC

This thread isn't about front seats but no thanks on removing it again. For me that entails disassembly. That's how I had to do it for the repaint, even the upholsty shop that did the carpet and headliner did not enjoy the front studs. I have found 2 milk crates and a moving blanket from Harbor Freight can make laying prone a lot easier. I will not comment on working on something 3" from your nose and not being able to focus. Getting old is not for the weak...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

All 55's came with power seats and they are a PITA to remove and put back in.  I know, I got a 56 with power seats and had to remove it a couple of times.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I'd have to disagree with MoonShadow and 56Roger, taking the seat out on a 'Bird is a PITA because of the power seat mechanism.
 However, taking the steering wheel off is just one nut and a puller, then you could check continuity from the switch to the light as well as checking to see if the switch is working properly.  Of course a wiring diagram would be a big help, but I or someone else here could give you the color codes.
I would lose my right brake light occasionally, but the turn signal worked which turned out to be the signal switch.

Don

Take the front seat out if your going to be under there for long. Its 4 bolts and some help lifting. Someday I need to do a full underdash rewire of my Vicky and will remove the seat for that.


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

My 56 was working fine. I removed everything to have the body blasted and repainted. On assembly my turn signals started working intermittent. Drove me crazy; I even added grounds to the rear tail light housings. I checked the fuse that fed the blinker relay and it was good. I finally checked the feed from that fuse and there was no power. I looked in the fuse holder and saw a small amount of the plastic in its manufacturing over the fuse contact. It has been in the car for the last 5 yrs I've owned the car without a problem. I changed the complete fuse holder and everything went back to working. It's a pain in the butt to lay on your back working under a dash as everyone knows especially when your 72. Good luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Not to hijack the thread but that reminded me of an old VW Beetle we had.  It was bought used but not ever abused.  A 1960 model.  The fuse panel was under the hood/bonnet behind a bit of a cardboard cover to protect it from the luggage area.  We discovered that if you removed the radio fuse the engine stopped and would not start.  Reinsert the fuse and everything was fine again.  I have no idea if this was a normal situation or if a previous change had wired something through that fuse that didn't belong there.  But it was definitely what happened.  A true story.

Converted to 12V with alternator, new battery, new bulbs.  Ordered new taillight assemblies, new back up light assemblies, and new license plate light assembly.  Going to try to eliminate future problems with this.  The lady I bought this car from was taken advantage of by so many folks it is maddening.  I am finding more and more things that were paid for, but not repaired as supposed.  I found a wire twisted together without any protection, no solder, no tape, no splice, another broken wire, rusted sockets, etc.   I think I am going to modernize everything and not worry about originality anymore.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Is your car 6 volt or 12.  If six, the 1157 (12volt) bulb will not work

If 12 volt, run a temporary ground from the taillight housing to  bare metal spot or to the bumper.  Then check it.

If that does not work, test the line going to stop/signal light for power with a test light. .

If no power there, start gong back on the line to find out where the problem is.  One spot may be the connector under the dash that the column wires go to.  Wire has come out or some other problem.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I've got no argument with the above. But having rebuilt my 55 steering column a few years ago, one more thing before you replace the turn signal switch. Check the wires for countinuity one by one from the switch to under the dash where it comes out of the column. Mine was working when I pulled the column and pulled it apart to have it rechromed. The wiring harness was toast, cracked, etc. but still working. It's a pain, but no point replacing the switch if the wiring is broken in the middle. If you have to go that far, do the horn wire too.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ