Since i've got my transmission back togather and in i havent been able to get it to shift into OD, i'm about 40 miles in and dailying it. It assembled fine and seemed to shift smooth when apart and freewheels fine. No change with the overdrive cable engaged or disengaged. It was assembled with 80-90w brad penn gl4(i now read 40w is recommended by BW?)  Now not overdrive shifting at speed(when letting off the gas) should be purely a mechanical issue right?

No, the electrical, both the solenoid and governor have to be hooked up, and power to the circuit. The kick down switch has to be working or bypassed probably, too. They work with power,and drop out without it. Or don’t engage. Don’t know about the oil, but IIRC there’s a separate fill for the od section. Don’t run it dry.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I agree, probably electrical, something not energizing the solenoid. Your gear oil will be fine, viscosity for motor oil and gear oil are measured differently ( don't ask me why ) 80-90 is about the same as 40W. I like many others have been using 80-90 for 30+ years in both my R-10 and R-11 ODs with no problem..

'50s Borg Warner transmissions (3 speed and 3 speed with overdrive) should be lubricated with mineral oil.  John (Hoosier Hurricane) brought this info to us some years ago.  I believe the reason for this was a friction factor of the mineral oil and B-W design intention for that friction factor.  My recollection is that John related that it had to do with the synchronizer clutches and shifting quality.

This is another case of all oil (grease) not being the same. 

Tractor Supply is one source for mineral oil in my area.   


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Above all do NOT use anything marked "hypoid" even if it's labeled for manual transmissions. The additives that make it hypoid will attack the brass synchronizers in older transmissions.

The original poster said "No change with the overdrive cable engaged or disengaged". It sounds like the shift lever isn't in the slot in the shift rail. There are springs on each end of the shift rail. It all has to be located correctly.

I didn’t read it that way, but you read it right. If it’s freewheeling with the cable in both positions you got it right.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

It should only freewheel with the Overdrive lever pushed in.  With the lever pulled out, the transmission should not freewheel.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Good catch, no it keeps it out of freewheel when manually disengaged like it should.

I'm going to guess it has to do with they governor  wire, i didnt get a reassuring click when plugged it in so it may not be connected. I'll crawl under it friday and see if that is it, for now, i'll backroad it to work.  

On a similar note, i had a spare transmission with a block off plate on the solenoid hole, so would that work normally just without the passing kickdown?

If the solenoid isn't installed it will never shift into OD. I hope I read your question correctly.

You can test the one in your car by bypassing all the control circuit except the relay. Wire a toggle to the relay, push the cable in and when you're at a suitable speed turn the switch on and let off the gas. It should shift. You can also test the solenoid in the car by attaching a long jumper to the SOL terminal on the relay and touching the other end to the hot battery post. It should click. If it clicks and the OD still won't engage the solenoid may not be installed correctly so that it can engage the OD drive plate. If you can pull the solenoid plunger out of the trans without 1st turning it 1/4 turn ccw it's not installed correctly..