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KULTULZ
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Every time I read your entries, I come back to the idea that happened to me with a similar situation with stalling, idling ok, and stalling after driving a short distance. After rebuilding my carb, changing everything, plugs, points, cap, rotor, etc., it would crank up fine, idle fine, but stall when I drove a short distance, or came to a stop. I finally traced it down to a fuel filter...
... hmm ....
Where is the filter on the supply side? I remember your saying you removed the inlet screens.
A 10 micron filter @ the pickup will not stop all trash. That is for accidental ingestion of Godzilla or perhaps a midget submarine. Didn't you say that it has a new fuel tank?
 
That cross-over fuel line worries me. Too close to the radiator hose.
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KULTULZ
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OK, so now we know it is not LOM. The CARB style points to 1957 MERC (368 CI) and 1957 LINC (368 CI). As Ted has posted, most likely now the problem(s) lie within the carb and/or throttle linkage. Make sure when inspected the secondaries close completely. When you adjust multi-carbs, you do so with linkages removed. Once satisfied with carb balance (your system is using two primary carbs), you then install linkage and adjust from there. BTW- If the intake manifold is FORD 1957 8V (ECG-9424-D), it takes a special valley cover pan to allow the bottom of the intake not to overheat and be subject to damage. NOTE TO SELF- Could the throttle bores/plates be larger on the 57 WCFB and be causing the interference if any? 
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Ted
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If you cannot get the engine to idle down with the idle mixture screws backed all the way out, then I’ll suggest removing the carbs from the manifold and checking out the carbs in detail. First off look at the rear secondaries to insure that they are completely seated when closed. If the throttle blades have been removed from their shafts in the past, then there’s a good chance the assembler did not get the blades properly realigned on the shafts and you have one or more blades out of sync with the others simply making for an uncontrolled air leak. Hence the failure to get the engine to properly idle down with the idle control screws.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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KULTULZ
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Joe D Posted- "Ethanol Free gasoline search in Philly area - You have to go to Reading area (1 1/2 Hr. from me) to find it out of a pump or by it in a 5 gallon can (95 octane) for around $50. You can get higher octane racing fuel also VP Racing 100,109,110." Just a thought. If you are in the Philly area, ethanol free gasoline is also usually sold in marinas and may not be listed in the fuel reference site. Common areas to find are agricultural regions, small airports and marinas Waiting for more definite engine assembly details/photos..
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KULTULZ
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PART II  The LOM was a system using modulated MANIFOLD VACUUM. This system (manifold vacuum use) has it's drawbacks and FORD addressed those with the 56 DUAL PORT DIAPHRAM vacuum advance. What is needed now is positive ID of components. As for TED EATON, he is the man, plain and simple.
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oldcarmark
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DryLakesRacer (10/28/2018)
JoeD, this may seem a little primative and others will probably chime in. To check which distributor you have just take off the cap and try to turn the rotor. If it will not move in either direction it's a Loadmatic. If it will move in one direction about 10-12* it is a centrifugal, which is 57-up. Also stick a long enough hose on the distributor can filling and suck on it to see if the plate moves, if it does that will prove your vacuum can is working. If it will stay moved with your tongue tip over the end of the hose the can is good. Your truck is a 1960. I cannot believe your dist is a loadmatic. As Ted stated the Merc WCFB's were used with loadmatics in 55-56 and were not compatible with the 57-up distributors that's why I first went to the GM carbs because they were. There were many of the guys I knew back in the 60's who ran their distributor vacuum off manifold and not ported and made them work. The engine would always idle faster and the just turned them down. Others ran no vacuum and set the advancing springs as light as possible and kept total advance around 34-37 degrees and just lived where initial advance showed on the balencer. We were just kids, what did we know anyway. We all have ideas that seem to work. Eventho I'm a California guy I've met Ted and watched him do dyno pulls (thanks to Karol Miller) and he has done more tests and ran every combination known to man on a Y-Block and I take his word as gospel. He and so many others on this site have helped me iron out problems which have never happened to me before and cannot thank them enough. You will figure this out. Take the Cap off. If U can see Springs its a Loadomatic. No Springs visible makes it a Dual Advance 57+ Distributor.
 
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KULTULZ
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At the minimum, reinstall those screens. You have no particulate protection as the 10 micron inline filter @ the tank acts as a sock filter (as on later applications) and only catches boulders and JAP midget submarines (but it is useful). When it shut down, did you check for spark also? The condensers coming through now are junk. Once they cool a little, the engine will fire right up. Also on a possible vacuum leak. When this occurs it will lean out the fuel mixture at that point.
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KULTULZ
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That is a sharp looking pickup and engine detail. You have a braided fuel supply hose running awfully close to the upper radiator hose/ heater outlet. That may be the source of heat ingestion. How high does the coolant temp go when this happens? The phenolic spacer(s) also isolate engine heat so as to keep the fuel cooler so as to provide a denser fuel mixture. Also was suggested a possible vacuum leak. Do you have a fuel pressure/vacuum test gauge?
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kevink1955
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Did anyone pick this up from the first post
"Does restart with foot to the floor and engine recovers and idles normal after a minute or so"
It's not starving for fuel, it's flooding most likely from fuel boiling in the bowls. insulated carb spacers may help.
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KULTULZ
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"Do they sell stock material that you can cut yourself. Should I make these as thick as possible to fit under hood? Maybe 1, 2, or 3". I do have room." Yes, they sell sheet stock if you want to make your own. Usually, you want just 1/4" as raising the spacer height may play with plenum volume. Here is a set of store bought - https://www.dashman.net/product.html?id=207Just isolate the problem before throwing money at it. I don't want you to get mad at me. Did you say you have an inline filter before the mechanical pump? What micron size? What is the application, a pickup with a "292"?
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