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KULTULZ
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First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passenger cars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
VALVOLINE is saying that VR-1 is product that is not allowed to be sold as a current lubricant (disclaimer) due to emission factors. By designating it as RACING OIL, it is side stepping the EPA. Now it also states that it does not have all of the detergent/dispersal packages included in new oils. This can be good and bad as to how you use your engine and how the crankcase is ventilated. It is attune to the argument of ethanol and non-formulated gasoline.
You are operating an older tech engine and it needs a different lubricant than is what is offered for today's market. There are more current products than VR-1 which offers different package levels. It also depends on valve spring strength and what the cam manufacturer recommends.
As for ROTELLA. Years ago it was the go to as old tech product availability was very limited. ROTELLA changed their formula with the intro of HT particulate traps and SHELL made the original product available in 5 gal. pails for fleet use to keep it from being bought by the general public. ROTELLA is an old technology for gasoline engines. There are more current products for a flat tappet engine.
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Rusty_S85
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PF Arcand (1/4/2019)
As noted previously, the oils subject turns into a quagmire of opinions, many not supported by any real evidence..However, in Phil's case he is using break in additive after breakin. Why? Then is going to use a Race Oil for street use, again why? Those type of decisions usually don't stand up to analysis.. In the case of Shell Rottella, it has anti scuff additives which are good, but our Lead moderater, Ted, says (quoting roughly) that long term use may not be desirable due to the very high detergent additives, because it's primarily a Diesel engine oil.. A good general rule of thumb for older non roller valve train engines, is to avoid oils which are designated for modern passenger car engines, that is the ones on which the container displays the "pinwheel gear" on the label. Those oils are designated by the "authorities" for modern engines, with lower anti-scuff additives, to avoid degradding of emission control systems, such as catalytic convertors... Beyond that.... Thing is even the oil manufacturers don't even know themselves. Take a look at the VR1 product page it states this about their VR1 Racing oil
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Its exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too. then go look at their FAQ page and it says What are the benefits of using racing oil versus regular passenger car oil?
The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. Then further down in the FAQ after labeling car enthauists as conspiracy theorist saying low level zinc does not harm older engines like we think they do another about face with this
What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue?
Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue :
* Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil : Contains 75% higher zinc than SN or SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and traditional applications. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades.
*Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus : Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of posioning the catalytic converter. First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passengercars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
As far as the belief of the converter getting destroyed by zddp levels let this bit sink in for you, the 1980`s saw the peak of zddp levels in motor oil. My 1978 Mercury lived through that, to this day she still sports the original ford stamped converters and will pass a sniffer test set up to 1992 standards on the asm rollers. I know cause I used my vehicle to learn how to use the asm rollers when I started doing state inspection years ago. I ran it as a 1992 Ford truck with 5.0 while my mercury was a 5.8 and it still passed indicating the converters are still working even after living through the 1980`s with the height of zddp.
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi
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PF Arcand
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As noted previously, the oils subject turns into a quagmire of opinions, many not supported by any real evidence..However, in Phil's case he is using break in additive after breakin. Why? Then is going to use a Race Oil for street use, again why? Those type of decisions usually don't stand up to analysis.. In the case of Shell Rottella, it has anti scuff additives which are good, but our Lead moderater, Ted, says (quoting roughly) that long term use may not be desirable due to the very high detergent additives, because it's primarily a Diesel engine oil.. A good general rule of thumb for older non roller valve train engines, is to avoid oils which are designated for modern passenger car engines, that is the ones on which the container displays the "pinwheel gear" on the label. Those oils are designated by the "authorities" for modern engines, with lower anti-scuff additives, to avoid degradding of emission control systems, such as catalytic convertors... Beyond that....
Paul
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2721955meteor
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oldcarmark (1/2/2019)
I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic. googol shell rotella t you will find lots of info, i could find no recommended use for gas engines,especially old ones
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Rusty_S85
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KULTULZ (1/3/2019)
Here's my concern (also IMO)- The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
So knowing this and having a high dollar engine (most likely no PCV also), I would keep a close watch on the crankcase. Maybe even an oil analysis occasionally. But the oils designed for today's engine ain't gonna cut it in a flat tappet engine (IMO).
which is why I check my oil quite a bit. its a little higher on the stick than it was but this oil is about 2 years old and being a draft tube setup with no real street driving the condensation is only what can puff out during running. Once I start to drive the car I will make sure there is fresh oil and filter in the car.
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi
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tomfiii
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Remember ,too much ZDDP will cause problems.
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charliemccraney
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The way they describe it in the brief paragraph and in the PI Sheet, VR1 is definitely intended, at least in part, for street use. It does have adequate levels and no additive is required. The 10w30 variant also tested pretty well in the 540ratblog. 20w50 was not tested. https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil
Lawrenceville, GA
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Florida_Phil
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I am using VR1. I think I'll skip the additive next time. Thanks.
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oldcarmark
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Rusty_S85 (1/3/2019)
oldcarmark (1/2/2019)
I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic. Rotella is still a go to oil last I heard. Just hard to find in some places. For me no local place stocks Rotella-T they have to order it. So my option is to hit up the local oreillys and get the 5 quarts I need in Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional as they keep that in stock and its a high zinc oil designed with racing in mind but is also compatible on street vehicles. I don't think its a full on race oil the bottle seems to indicate it has the benefits of race oil with high zinc levels but is still a regular motor oil. Have You checked your local Walmart? As far as I know they stock it and Price is very good.
 
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
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Here's my concern (also IMO)- The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
So knowing this and having a high dollar engine (most likely no PCV also), I would keep a close watch on the crankcase. Maybe even an oil analysis occasionally. But the oils designed for today's engine ain't gonna cut it in a flat tappet engine (IMO).
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