The bushing itself is easy. What I found though, is replacement of the bushing won't necessarily clean up all of the excessive sideplay. The distributor shaft is made of steel, but it will likely show significant wear as well.

If the distributor shaft must be replaced as well, it quickly gets more complicated. The reason is because the replacement shafts are not drilled for the gear installation. As you are undoubtedly aware, distributor dimensions in terms of length or endplay are critical. The distributor gear must be located and drilled with a degree of accuracy within a few thousandths.

The parts themselves can also be difficult to locate. This is why remanufactured distributors are so scarce.

I don't know a solution for sure, but what about cleaning up the metal shaft & then machining & installing a thicker bushing?  Feasible ?..


Paul

GOOGLE B7A 12175-A

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NOS distributor shafts are readily available, and not especially expensive, BUT, they are of the earlier style that takes the cast "comma" style centrifugal flyweights. This style of weight have a hardened steel pin that rides in the reluctor slots, with long use these become excessively worn. This type of reluctor in turn is hard to source, and or expensive. So the whole operation quickly turns into a small to medium pain in the you know what. A good distributor with in spec dimensions and runout or side wobble tolerances is key to getting a smooth running motor under different operating conditions, an ignition scope will bear this out. Many hard to diagnose idle problems can be traced back to a worn distributor, excessive backlash in the gear, etc. This is true even with electronic points replacement modules. They are less affected than mechanical points but they are not immune.