I have a pretty stock 292 going into a 55 Tbird.  ECZ G heads with a 57 Tbird holley 4 barrel manifold.  Will be getting headers and a 4r70w trans behind it.  Just seeing if anybody has run this cam before.  Listed specs are:

Adv duration 255
.050 duration 220
.463 lift
110 lobe separation
106 intake centerline

Does it sound like a decent cam for a weekend cruiser street car?

Thanks
Paul

What adapter are you using for 4R70W transmission? Is there sufficient room in transmission tunnel? Electronics/computer?

Long story on the transmission.  About 8 years ago I was thinking about  running a 427 SOHC with a C4.  You can run the same stock Tbird motor mounts on the FE as the y-block.  Everything fit in pretty well, but putting in headers with the stock steering was going to be difficult. 
   This was my dads car.  He bought it from his brother in 1957, and drove it until 1966.  It has sat since then.  I have never been in the car under power, born in 1965.
It was a rust bucket, and not worth restoring.  I bought him a nice 1955 Bird about 10years ago.  He drove it for about 3 years, then started his fight with dementia.  I lost him about 1 1/2 years ago.
  Before he got too bad, he decided he wanted to restore it and give it to my daughter.  We changed plans, and decided to tone it down,  He got to see the finished car, minus the drive train before he passed.  This motor is just a place holder, to mock things up and get things moving.  A mummert headed stroker is in the works. Very delayed due to COVID.
The 4r70w is derived from the C4.  The C4 fit with a ton of extra space.  Not to sure if I will have to massage the trans tunnel for the 4r70w, it is a good bit beefier than the C4.  I am getting a Bendtsen Speed Gems adaptor.  The electronics will be controlled with a Baumann controller.  

Paul

Every year, a 1955 T-bird is entered in our annual downtown car show. There is a SOHC 427 under the hood, but I think the only original part left on the car is the body. Nevertheless, it's quite impressive, especially knowing I'm looking at a $50,000 engine.

I have had the SOHC for over 20 years.  I didn't pay anything near that for it.  I guess it was a good investment.  I should tell my wife, might make up a little bit for what I have spent on the Bird so far.  It really was a rust bucket.  I already have spent twice what it is worth getting it this far.  It is a very early car, #34 built.  I was told the first 100 cars were made per production line, and have a bunch of little differences.

Paul

Just another option for you, i am using a isky 301974 i got from mummert 216 degrees intake and exhaust  at .050.  Lobe center 111degrees. 
installed at 110. Its in a 304 with ecz c heads. I am running power brakes and a aod.  No problem with idle or vacuum to power brakes. 
Good street driver.  Hope this helps. 

Located in Harford County Maryland 

Is that the Cam Mummert calls the '57 + ?


Paul

Yes i looked at my receipt and he lists it as a 57+ cam.  Works really good for me with the AOD. 
Merry Christmas everyone. 

Located in Harford County Maryland 

Decided to go with the Isky 30-1444.  Will I have to make the oil groove in the third journal deeper with this cam?  Found out I have a mixed bag of rocker arms in the engine.  Could use a few of the high lift versions, if anybody has a few spares.  I posted an add in the classifieds.  Any way to change the subject line?  Forgot to put wanted to buy.
  If anybody wants to put an FE in their bird, I have the stuff.

Paul

I think you meant rocker arms, not lifters.

Thanks
Fixed it.

Paul

When I purchased my ISKY 301333 cam we measured the oil grove depth at .018".   Since Mummert re grooves his cams, we decided to cut our cam to .030".   We used a lathe to deepen the grove. With the engine assembled on the engine stand, I used a socket and a hand crank to turn the oil pump so I could check the oil flow.  The flow to the heads was more than adequate.  Upon full assembly I was somewhat worried that I would have too much oil to the heads.  Previously, I had always closed the oil drain tubes off to pressurize the rocker arms. With the deeper cam grove, I purchased new oil drain tubes and installed them open in the stock location. Upon initial start, I watched the oil flow to the heads and all looked good. With about 3,000 miles on my engine, I have had no oiling issues.

Personally, I believe cutting the cam oil grove deeper is a viable modification.  I'm not sure it's a necessity, especially if you are street driving.  Some members have had to restrict the oil flow as they had too much oil to the heads after cutting the grove. Thankfully, I did not, 

I have read that you can swap an FE into an early Tbird using the stock YBlock mounts.  I am curious, did you mount the cammer using the YBlock front mount and steady rests or did you fabricate new frame side mounts?

The early Fe equipped pick up trucks used a front mount like the y-block.  To put a wedge FE in the bird you  get the timing cover (iron) and the front mount from an early FE truck.  You can use the bird strut mounts.  Everything lines up, and is a simple bolt in.  It locates the motor in the same place as a y-block.  With the cammer you use the same front truck mount, but you can'y run it with the stock timing chain cover.  I had DOVE cast up a front cover where the lower block section was like the FE truck timing cover.  I knew Jim Dove pretty well, and it was a simple mod to the casting.  I could have machined up an adapter plate for the mount, would not have been too hard.  Just need a level surface to mount the truck front plate to.  Dove had a 57 bird with a 428 FE in it with this mount set up.  It looked like a stock factory install.

Paul

Very interesting.  To swap an FE engine into an early bird, you need a truck rear sump oil pan and an early truck front engine mount?  The only big issue is the headers and steering box clearance?  I have seen many different engines swapped into early birds from 289s to big block GMs. Even saw one with a Chrysler Hemi once. If I was ten years younger, an FE swap would be in the works.  As it is, my Y-Block TBird is a nice driver and spirited enough for me now. Thanks for the info.

I have a 460 with a C6 in a "57 Bird with the original shifter.
Used side motor mounts and the shifter has an extra detent for the C6.
Blue Thunder aluminum heads and intake manifold make this bird strong.
Ernie

tbirddragracer, I would appreciate more info. on how you set up 57 shifter to work with C6. What detent was used, etc. I don't want to use a Mustang C4 shifter. My only other option would be Lokar. If you prefer, you can PM/email. Any photos you have would be helpful. I would think that what works for a C6 should also work for a C4. 

Thanks

I will send you some pictures.
 Ernie

Thanks!

Any chance you can post the pictures on this site?  I am still working out the shifter details as well.  Dove said that in his car, he would just bump it up through the range, and could hit all three gears.  When I was thinking about running the C4 behind the Y, I called the guy that runs Flatomatic.  He said if I sent him my shifter, he would see if he could modify the detent in the shifter and offer them as an option with his kits.  Lokar offers a shaft kit for the 4r70w that looks like it will work in the Bird, but still have to modify the shifter.

Paul

Ogasman, was the original Fordomatic T-bird shifter retained when the C4 was installed? If so, were you able to shift it manually from first to third/drive? 

Ogasman:  J. Mummert re grooves all the Y-block cams he sells. He claims that the blanks are under original spec in that area, but I don't recall seeing anywhere what the spec  is supposed to be..?  Don't over do it, or you will have flood  on your hands..  


Paul